Adjustable bridge options

[backstrap19]

Which bridge? I’ll gladly PM you my dimensions and how I splice it. I have a you tube video for how to tie it in once the splices are done

@Fl Canopy Stalker Can your video about tying on the adjustable bridge be used with non-amsteel rope? For example, oplux and 6mm trc? What length is needed on the friction leg in order to tie it correctly?

 

[Fl Canopy Stalker]

@Fl Canopy Stalker Can your video about tying on the adjustable bridge be used with non-amsteel rope? For example, oplux and 6mm trc? What length is needed on the friction leg in order to tie it correctly?

You could use Oplux on Oplux. The beauty of the Blake’s hitch is that (unlike prusiks, schwabish and distel hitches) it can be tied using rope of the same diameter. You’d tie in a slightly larger eye (probably about 8.5”) to make the prusik wraps on the bridge. The main piece is 32” past the eye and the split tail piece for the friction hitch is 25” past the eye. So I’d say you could make the bridge with about 12’ maybe 13’ of total oplux. 8’ for the long piece and 4’ to 5’ for the short piece.

 

[enkriss]

I made my bridge from Oplux and TRC. I like to have prussic on my bridge loops and a Schwabisch on my opux/trc connection for adjustable bridge. It works good but there is a lot of bulk. With those 4 hitches on the TRC. I want to find a sewn loop of trc or something that can be spliced other than Amsteel.

 

[Fl Canopy Stalker]

I made my bridge from Oplux and TRC. I like to have prussic on my bridge loops and a Schwabisch on my opux/trc connection for adjustable bridge. It works good but there is a lot of bulk. With those 4 hitches on the TRC. I want to find a sewn loop of trc or something that can be spliced other than Amsteel.

Yea I’m about to offer some other bridge options simply because some people don’t like amsteel.

 

[backstrap19]

Yea I’m about to offer some other bridge options simply because some people don’t like amsteel.

Anxiously awaiting this announcement. And thank you for the information about the bridge setup!!


I'm not opposed to amsteel, I am just not real good at full bury, and looking for other options. Amsteel does slide in a biner really smoothly as a bridge!

 

[FrankNess14]

What’s with the utili-bridge style adjustment from both sides? Why not just adjust from one side? Honest question!

 

[Fl Canopy Stalker]

What’s with the utili-bridge style adjustment from both sides? Why not just adjust from one side? Honest question!

Are you referring to the triad style where it adjusts lengths from each end? If so I’m not a fan of that either. However double girth hitching the bridge loops on each side I am a fan of because it allows you to hold you pressure setting on the saddle.

 

[Iron_llama]

I'm not opposed to amsteel, I am just not real good at full bury, and looking for other options. Amsteel does slide in a biner really smoothly as a bridge!

I've got a webbing bridge on my Recon, and it slides really, really smooth. A couple of chunks of 1" tubular webbing, a 4-pack of Aultral Alpin tri-glides from EWO, you've got an adjustable bridge (for certain definitions of "adjustable") with smooth action.

 

[Seekbigger]

I have tried all kinds and my preference is the JRB method that allows easy adjustments and can be detachable as well. Look up JRB adjustable bridge on YouTube, it has worked flawlessly for me and adjust supper easy one handed operation.

 

[Nate]

I put this on this year and really like it so far.

https://doublesteps.com/product/amsteel-whoopi-openable-bridge/

 

[FrankNess14]

Are you referring to the triad style where it adjusts lengths from each end? If so I’m not a fan of that either. However double girth hitching the bridge loops on each side I am a fan of because it allows you to hold you pressure setting on the saddle.

Yes, I’ve always put a big enough eye in the bridge to have a double girth (should be [mention]Weldabeast [/mention] band name) on one bridge loop and the hitch double girthed to the other. Never seen an advantage to have the double sided adjustable bridge. I always figured I’d have slack on the wrong side that I have a free hand to work with…

Sorry if I called it the wrong thing earlier…

 

[FrankNess14]

I have tried all kinds and my preference is the JRB method that allows easy adjustments and can be detachable as well. Look up JRB adjustable bridge on YouTube, it has worked flawlessly for me and adjust supper easy one handed operation.

I tried it and like the idea, but didn’t like the complication of pull here for this and pull here for that, but not those 2 or nothing will happen….
I like the standard pull to shorten and squeeze to lengthen.

The same can be accomplished with a girth hitch and regular blakes on one side to make it function like a standard bridge.

 

[raisins]

here's the thing that makes me scratch my head....everyone wants the adjustment on their dominant side (right side for me as a rightie) so it is easier to pull the thing and shorten or lengthen.....that that is also the side that will hit your tether carabiner if you rotate hard for a drop shot

i adjust my bridge so infrequently that having on the left or right doesn't matter (since it's probably going to take 2 hand anyway once weighted and stuck).....so why not have a rightie have it on the left so that your adjustment stuff isn't going to bang into the tether carabiner if you rotate hard counter clockwise?

 

[FrankNess14]

I can’t disagree, however, my thought was being able to adjust out while holding a bow to make that drop shot without tending the hitch on turning hard. I guess an intelligent person could reach across to the left side and do the same thing…

 

[raisins]

I can’t disagree, however, my thought was being able to adjust out while holding a bow to make that drop shot without tending the hitch on turning hard. I guess an intelligent person could reach across to the left side and do the same thing…

good point, first i've thought of it....i guess it's because i run my bridge medium to long....the only thing i've adjusted for a shot was my tether (usually lengthening so i can stand and turn to weak side on the platform)

 

[backstrap19]

You could use Oplux on Oplux. The beauty of the Blake’s hitch is that (unlike prusiks, schwabish and distel hitches) it can be tied using rope of the same diameter. You’d tie in a slightly larger eye (probably about 8.5”) to make the prusik wraps on the bridge. The main piece is 32” past the eye and the split tail piece for the friction hitch is 25” past the eye. So I’d say you could make the bridge with about 12’ maybe 13’ of total oplux. 8’ for the long piece and 4’ to 5’ for the short piece.

Thank you again for the help! I didnt have any extra oplux here, so I tried one with some extra 9mm HTP that I had laying around. it actually worked really well! Are there certain types of ropes that lend themselves to the blake's better than others?

Would you have an opinion on using 8mm accessory cord from Sterling as a bridge? here are some of the specs:
MBS Rating (kN): 15.6
MBS Rating (lb): 3,506

Thanks again for the help. I never would have figued any of this out without you @Fl Canopy Stalker Thank you again!

 

[Fl Canopy Stalker]

Thank you again for the help! I didnt have any extra oplux here, so I tried one with some extra 9mm HTP that I had laying around. it actually worked really well! Are there certain types of ropes that lend themselves to the blake's better than others?

Would you have an opinion on using 8mm accessory cord from Sterling as a bridge? here are some of the specs:
MBS Rating (kN): 15.6
MBS Rating (lb): 3,506

Thanks again for the help. I never would have figued any of this out without you @Fl Canopy Stalker Thank you again!

I personally wouldn’t use rope with less than 4500 lbs break strength on a bridge although some guys would argue that point with me since a bridge is in basket configuration. If you don’t mind spending a little money, the Robline Coppa 5000 in 7mm is over 5200 lbs strength, and it holds hitches including the Blake’s incredibly well.
As far as ropes, 24 strand climbing ropes and some kermantle ropes with more pliability tend to hold Blake’s hitches better. Oplux, Rescue tech, Robline Coppa 5000, Samson climbing ropes such as predator, and all gear deep woods are all great ropes for bridges (depending on your preferred size and weight. All of them hold friction hitches well. 9mm Bluewater protac and 9mm HTP are a little stiff so you’d have to use a smaller hitch cord to get it to bite as well.

 

[backstrap19]

I personally wouldn’t use rope with less than 4500 lbs break strength on a bridge although some guys would argue that point with me since a bridge is in basket configuration. If you don’t mind spending a little money, the Robline Coppa 5000 in 7mm is over 5200 lbs strength, and it holds hitches including the Blake’s incredibly well.
As far as ropes, 24 strand climbing ropes and some kermantle ropes with more pliability tend to hold Blake’s hitches better. Oplux, Rescue tech, Robline Coppa 5000, Samson climbing ropes such as predator, and all gear deep woods are all great ropes for bridges (depending on your preferred size and weight. All of them hold friction hitches well. 9mm Bluewater protac and 9mm HTP are a little stiff so you’d have to use a smaller hitch cord to get it to bite as well.

I am not going to ask this question to be argumentative, I'm asking it because I feel like I don't know enough about knots, hitches, and ratings to speak correctly about this:

If you are using a 5000 lb rated 10mm rope for a bridge (or even a tether?) And you use a 3500 lb rated accessory cord to make the friction hitch to clip into (again, either as a tether or on an adjustable bridge), isn't the rating of just the smallest rope you use the rating the matters?

What I mean is, if you are hanging from the 6mm TRC, and that is attached to an Oplux tether, isn't your TRC the weakest point of all of that? Would the same hold true with an adjustable bridge? I just don't want to make any foolish errors and get myself hurt, that's why i'm asking.

Side Note: with a blakes hitch, is it bad to use a cord for the hitch that is smaller than the main line?

 

[BTaylor]

I am not going to ask this question to be argumentative, I'm asking it because I feel like I don't know enough about knots, hitches, and ratings to speak correctly about this:

If you are using a 5000 lb rated 10mm rope for a bridge (or even a tether?) And you use a 3500 lb rated accessory cord to make the friction hitch to clip into (again, either as a tether or on an adjustable bridge), isn't the rating of just the smallest rope you use the rating the matters?

What I mean is, if you are hanging from the 6mm TRC, and that is attached to an Oplux tether, isn't your TRC the weakest point of all of that? Would the same hold true with an adjustable bridge? I just don't want to make any foolish errors and get myself hurt, that's why i'm asking.

Side Note: with a blakes hitch, is it bad to use a cord for the hitch that is smaller than the main line?

Still learning myself but as I understand it the answer is it depends on how the lighter weight rope is attached. If the hitch is in a basket configuration, the load strength is higher than the single line strength because the load is shared on two strands. So in effect the hitch strength could be higher than the bridge rope. Clear as mud right? Hopefully, if I said that wrong someone will correct it.

 

[Brocky]

The Blake’s works best when it is the same size as the rope it’s tied on.
Samsons WarpSpeed II is another option for a bridge.