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Advice for grade 8 newbie

PJC said:
You only need to dip once. Bolts hold great with a clothes pin on a line. Plastic dip by going from bolt to bolt with the can never had a plasti dip wear off. I grinding of the bolt head is necessary. Plasti dip keeps bolts quiet too.
That said, I may try your shrink wrap. Where do you get it?


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Amazon. The stuff I get comes in black or red. I hold an overspray of primer pretty well.
Personally, I don't like black bolts...too hard to see when climbing down in the dark, and I avoid flashlights near my stands because its too easy for other hunters who may be present in the vicinity to see my location. Red steps are okay, but I have given some a quick spray of primer gray.
Let me look for the Amazon link.
I can't imagine anyone would prefer to mess with dip when you can have a dry, and ready to use bolt in 1 minute with shrink tube.
 
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PJC said:
You only need to dip once. Bolts hold great with a clothes pin on a line. Plastic dip by going from bolt to bolt with the can never had a plasti dip wear off. No grinding of the bolt head is necessary. Plasti dip keeps bolts quiet too.
That said, I may try your shrink wrap. Where do you get it?


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I found it on Amazon, but for some reason, my phone won't show a link to share...the URL box just shows "Amazon".
But its by "XHF". Click on it and once it opens, you can then choose size and color (black or red).
I won't be near my computer for a few weeks or I could give you the link with my stupid phone. I hate that phones don't behave like my laptop.
See if this works...
https://www.amazon.com/XHF2018-Dual...HF&qid=1562817042&s=gateway&sr=8-1&th=1&psc=1
 
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Are galvanized bolts (3/8” 6in)strong enough for our purposes vs grade 8? They’re cheaper...just wondering.
 
@Nutterbuster I would just stick with grade 8 bolts. John is climbing huge cottonwoods much of the time and a treehopper drill may not get past the bark so I can see where the longer spikes would be beneficial. At that point I think I would be looking more toward srt.
 
I preset a pine tree last year and didn't remove the bolts. You guys think it would be safe to get on them this season, I don't see a reason why not but want to see if somone has left the bolts in.
 
John Eberhart said:
Any cordless drill and make sure you buy an Irwin brand 3/8 inch wood bit (with small screw on end with cost of about $8 for one bit) and use 3/8 inch X 10 inch long spikes which can be purchased at independent hardware stores for about $100 per 50 pound box. If you weigh less than 170 pounds a single spike will support you if you keep your foot tight to the tree when climbing, if over 170 you may want to consider doubling them up. I've had a Tree Hopper hand drill since they were introduced in the late 70's or in the 80's and they take a much longer time to drill a 3/8 inch hole than a cordless drill and I assume you want to pre-set your locations instead of freelancing for each hunt and a cordless drill is the only way to go and make sure to take an extra battery with you. The Tree Hopper works great but is much slower and when you are preparing trees, getting the job properly done with the least amount of effort is the plan as you will at times be in very compromising positions.
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I tried this. Bought the Irwin bit in 1/2 inch and some bolts. Drilled one hole. VERY DIFFICULT. Killed my battery. I'm thinking this is only good for pine trees, softwood. Our New York hardwoods are not suited for the bolt method. Is anyone successful at drilling holes in Harwood tree's????
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Garrymny said:
I tried this. Bought the Irwin bit in 1/2 inch and some bolts. Drilled one hole. VERY DIFFICULT. Killed my battery. I'm thinking this is only good for pine trees, softwood. Our New York hardwoods are not suited for the bolt method. Is anyone successful at drilling holes in Harwood tree's????
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Absolutely. In fact I think drilling hard trees is actually easier will a hand drill. One species I tested was Osage Orange. That crap is almost as hard as steel. I've broken screw-in steps trying to set trees in Osage. My Treehopper hand drill went into it with no problem. I assume a cordless version would work just as well.
There was a guy that did a video several months back that "proved" the Treehopper cordless bit didn't work...The guy had the drill in reverse. Poor dude took quite a ribbing.
 
The treehopper power drill bit is a huge improvement over the ones that come from your local hardware store in my opinion. I tried a Chinese brand from Menards and it couldn't get anything done at all. The tree Hopper brand looks really well put together and it has no trouble augering Into the Woods easily. Looking at them side-by-side the angles were funny on the tips of the hardware store brand. I had a tree in a really weird spot and had to be 35 feet up in order to beat the canopy and I only used half of a battery on a 12-volt drill. Plus I drilled 6 holes for a ring of Bolt steps and a couple extras for gear hangers. I forgot to count how many bolts Total.

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HappyChappy said:
Are galvanized bolts (3/8” 6in)strong enough for our purposes vs grade 8? They’re cheaper...just wondering.
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The money you save can go towards a nice bouquet for your coffin.... get the grade 8

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Getting ready to set bolts for the first time as well. How high can a guy 5’6” get with 10 bolts ya think?


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Mobowhunter94 said:
Getting ready to set bolts for the first time as well. How high can a guy 5’6” get with 10 bolts ya think?


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It varies with individual flexibility, leg length, and climbing comfort. I’d say for a rough estimate, measure your leg from the ground to the top of your knee. It seems many people use their knee as a guide while installing bolts. I’m 5’11 and 24” between steps is very comfortable even with layers. So 10 steps would get me 20’ high.
 
Mobowhunter94 said:
Getting ready to set bolts for the first time as well. How high can a guy 5’6” get with 10 bolts ya think?


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I'm 5'7" with fairly short legs but I am pretty flexible. I climb bolts spaced that guys 6 foot tall have trouble. 10 bolts can usually get me over 18 feet.
I think too many guys het hung up on the belief they need to be "X" feet high. Individual situations require an individual set up. Higher isn't always better. Shot angles, sky lighting/cover, extra gear, extra time and extra effort to climb higher are some of the reasons why I try to stay as low as I can get away with.
 
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