• The SH Membership has gone live. Only SH Members have access to post in the classifieds. All members can view the classifieds. Starting in 2020 only SH Members will be admitted to the annual hunting contest. Current members will need to follow these steps to upgrade: 1. Click on your username 2. Click on Account upgrades 3. Choose SH Member and purchase.
  • We've been working hard the past few weeks to come up with some big changes to our vendor policies to meet the changing needs of our community. Please see the new vendor rules here: Vendor Access Area Rules

Am I overpaying for Easton arrows

zurr4013

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2020
Messages
878
Location
Indiana
Hello guys,

Last year I upgraded from a Martin Afflictor to a Hoyt Helix Ultra at 70# and my pro shop watched me shoot only a few times and gave me some FMJ 300 spine. I think they are around 30.5 to 31 inches in length. I shoot around 20 shots or more a day this time of year so they told me FMJ would hold up longer. I was doing well with them this year but I switched to a drop rest. I forgot to add, I shoot Grim Reaper Fatal Steel at 100 grains and 100 grain field points. They both seem to fly the same. It is time to reload on ammo and wanted to explore rather than just be told what to shoot.

Oh and the shop I got the bow from was 1.5 hours away and my local shop owner retired.

1. Will the drop rest mean I need a different spine since it might be a little faster? Will a 250 spine be a bad deal for me?
2. Am I overpaying for Easton brand? I don't want to pay more for something just because it has better marketing talent but I will if they are what is needed.

Thanks for the input.
 
From what they say. FMJ make it hard to get a high FOC if your looking for maximum penatration according to Ashby reports. Stiff arrow with heavy broadhead up front is the way to go. FMJ gives you weight, but a low FOC. If you are interested in that. Just an FYI.
 
From what they say. FMJ make it hard to get a high FOC if your looking for maximum penatration according to Ashby reports. Stiff arrow with heavy broadhead up front is the way to go. FMJ gives you weight, but a low FOC. If you are interested in that. Just an FYI.

Any recommendations or brands that I need to be looking at? I have only been shooting Easton for 6 years and looking to see what's good out there.
 
Black Eagle Carnivores or Rampages
Easton Axis
Victory VAP TKO
Gold Tip Hunter XT

those are some of the more reputable, proven arrows that don’t break the bank...I’d stray away from FMJ’s if it were me...just one man’s opinion
 
I shoot goldtip velocity and hunter arrows from the box at my local bow shop and I like them a lot. You don’t even need the xt or pro gold tips if you can spin the arrows at full length and cut of the wobbly side or a little from each side you end up with perfect spinning cheap arrows and they’re durable. Just may end up with the labels not matching if you have ocd about that stuff though.
cc7954c2f49352f03bf2457aad524058.jpg



Sent from parts unknown
 
Youtube: Ranch fairy. He talks about FOC and cut on contact broadheads. Brands are not import. Just a good stiff arrow that shoots well out of your bow. There's no magic arrow that is the best. It's about what flies right from your bow. If you can make a 10 dollar arrow fly better than 20. Why pay the extra 10?
 
Black Eagle Carnivores or Rampages
Easton Axis
Victory VAP TKO
Gold Tip Hunter XT

those are some of the more reputable, proven arrows that don’t break the bank...I’d stray away from FMJ’s if it were me...just one man’s opinion

Thank you for listing some options. I was looking at some Axis but didn't know if there was that big of a difference from the FMJ. I was looking at them in a 250 spine instead of 300. Going to have to check the charts again to see if 250 is too stiff.
 
Youtube: Ranch fairy. He talks about FOC and cut on contact broadheads. Brands are not import. Just a good stiff arrow that shoots well out of your bow. There's no magic arrow that is the best. It's about what flies right from your bow. If you can make a 10 dollar arrow fly better than 20. Why pay the extra 10?

I watched a couple of his videos and that is what got me re-thinking the whole thing. I once tried to bare shaft tune my arrows and it was a nightmare. Never figured it out and got more frustrated since I couldn't group them like I was before I started.

After watching more videos, I felt the problem was I only had the one option of arrow. Rather than change my bow settings a million times I think I need to try different ammo.
 
Thank you for listing some options. I was looking at some Axis but didn't know if there was that big of a difference from the FMJ. I was looking at them in a 250 spine instead of 300. Going to have to check the charts again to see if 250 is too stiff.
What’s your draw length and draw weight?
 
My bow says 70# and I have it screwed down tight so Im assuming right around there. Not 100 on draw length since it was all set up for me at the shop. My arrows are cut 30.5 inches carbon to carbon i believe.
 
I have a slightly longer draw & similar weight. I had fmj s a few years ago & found they weren’t really durable & was chewing them up shooting deer. I went partially down the heavy high foc rabbit hole ( not ranch fairy deep) I switched 3 years ago to Easton axis 5mm match grade 250s w/ 125 gr inserts & 125 gr Broadheads. They’ve held up well and absolutely punch through deer. If you can learn to build your own arrows you can really have some fun with it.
 
I shoot Carbon Express Maxima hunter 8.9 grains per inch at 28 inches and Goldtip XT hunters at 8.9 grains per inch at 28 inches . I use a drop away rest with no problems. My draw length is 28 inches with a half inch string loop. Bow is an Alien Z set at 55 pounds.
 
My bow says 70# and I have it screwed down tight so Im assuming right around there. Not 100 on draw length since it was all set up for me at the shop. My arrows are cut 30.5 inches carbon to carbon i believe.
I would back the limb bolts out a little . It's not good to crank them tight but make sure you turn them the same amount.
 
I would back the limb bolts out a little . It's not good to crank them tight but make sure you turn them the same amount.

The dealer/pro shop put that together that way for me. They claimed that bows are made to be maxed out and are not as efficient when not at full weight. Learning it is a lot like rifles and pistols, everyone has different knowledge and experiences. Glad I now have a place to discuss these types of issues.
 
I really like my Gold Tip Hunter XT’s and shoot them factory fletched (for now). I have about a 30” draw, 56-60lbs. draw weight, and pretty aggressive cams (Bowtech RPM 360), so I shoot them in the 300 spine with 100 grain Muzzy broadheads. My total arrow weight (with broadhead) is somewhere between 425 and 450 grains, with 10.8% FOC. At my draw weight, I suspect I’d be fine adding 100 grain inserts without needing stiffer arrows, but I can’t say for sure because I haven’t tried it.
I guess I say all that to say, if you’re going to shoot 70 lbs. and heavy broadheads, you probably ought to go with 250’s, but if you’re going to back your draw weight down or shoot lighter arrows, I think 300’s would probably do you well.
 
The dealer/pro shop put that together that way for me. They claimed that bows are made to be maxed out and are not as efficient when not at full weight. Learning it is a lot like rifles and pistols, everyone has different knowledge and experiences. Glad I now have a place to discuss these types of issues.
I worked at a bows shop for years and the bows are so sufficient it doesn't matter I shoot a 60 pound bow at 55 pounds. We never tightened limb bolts down tight by turning them out a 1/4 turn or so won't have any effect on your bow .
 
I worked at a bows shop for years and the bows are so sufficient it doesn't matter I shoot a 60 pound bow at 55 pounds. We never tightened limb bolts down tight by turning them out a 1/4 turn or so won't have any effect on your bow .

That is awesome to hear. Only been in the game for 5 years. Tips like these are helping me get those gains. Went to a Carter Convertible thumb release last year and watched my accuracy grow. Now looking to optimize the drop rest and arrow combo. Thanks again.
 
Thank you for listing some options. I was looking at some Axis but didn't know if there was that big of a difference from the FMJ. I was looking at them in a 250 spine instead of 300. Going to have to check the charts again to see if 250 is too stiff.
If you’ve got a scheels near you, Victory actually makes Scheels brand arrows... I’ve watched a few test videos that actually grade their arrows up with VAPs. I’ve not tested myself, but at 35 bucks a half dozen, it’s worth it just to check em out. We’re too close to season now for me to change my setup, but before my winter 3D league, I’m planning to get some to try out.
 
If you’ve got a scheels near you, Victory actually makes Scheels brand arrows... I’ve watched a few test videos that actually grade their arrows up with VAPs. I’ve not tested myself, but at 35 bucks a half dozen, it’s worth it just to check em out. We’re too close to season now for me to change my setup, but before my winter 3D league, I’m planning to get some to try out.

My season won't start until Oct. 1st so I feel this is the time for me to get it done. I'm not sure if Scheels is in Indiana but I might be able to learn up on them on the youtubes. Thanks for the input
 
Black Eagle Carnivores or Rampages
Easton Axis
Victory VAP TKO
Gold Tip Hunter XT

those are some of the more reputable, proven arrows that don’t break the bank...I’d stray away from FMJ’s if it were me...just one man’s opinion
well I went to a local shop today and decided on Black Eagle Outlaws in 350 spine uncut at 32 inches. I was testing arrows lengths and different spines. First shot with the Outlaws was a perfect bullet hole on paper. I got a half dozen just like it and going to give it a shot here at home for a while.
They were cheap enough that if I don’t like them in the end it wasn’t a bank buster.

Thanks for the help
 
Back
Top