• The SH Membership has gone live. Only SH Members have access to post in the classifieds. All members can view the classifieds. Starting in 2020 only SH Members will be admitted to the annual hunting contest. Current members will need to follow these steps to upgrade: 1. Click on your username 2. Click on Account upgrades 3. Choose SH Member and purchase.
  • We've been working hard the past few weeks to come up with some big changes to our vendor policies to meet the changing needs of our community. Please see the new vendor rules here: Vendor Access Area Rules

Arrow Building Questions

My specs are about the same as yours 28” draw & 65lbs. I shot gt velocity 300s last year with 275 gr up front and they flew great and came in a 550 TAW with around 21% FOC. Maybe that will get you in the ball park. Killed 3 deer and a turkey with them and severed two of the bucks humorous bones and kept going.
 
MattMan81 said:
Food for thought. Grizzly stick let's you order a few different test arrows. Then will credit you back if you order arrows later. Not a bad deal. If you do the package with the broadheads you save some more. Its geared at 650gr though. But trying stuff is going to be the only way to know what works with you and your bow. Im planning on building some 650s soon. I was at 750 last year.
Victory will build you arrows as well. Just tell them what you want.
Just make sure you have good arrow flight. I'm a RF dust snorter. But 550 with with good arrow flight should do well for white tail. Expecially with COC heads and a higher FOC.
Here is grizzlys link if you want.

GrizzlyStik

www.grizzlystik.com www.grizzlystik.com
Click to expand...

This is likely heavier than I want to go this time around but it's a great idea, thank you!
 
Weldabeast said:
I'm just a weekend warrior so keep that in mind .... Standard diameter arrow for ease of inserts/lighted nock and 300 spine arrow is what I would start out with. Get whatever insert u like and a field point test kit from whichever company u like. IMO it's really not that much more money to build heavier vs standard fast arrows. Hotmelt so u can assemble/disassemble as u are trying different stuff. A 27 inch 300 spine should be plenty stiff for.the weight u shooting for. I had 350 spine flying good up to around 550gr but any heavier they got pretty squirrely.....I have 200 cutthroat and I think that they are a very nice broadhead
Once u have all the components the RF arrow building playlist is a great start to finish resource....I don't know any other utube to recommend. It's a process so don't expect it be finished quickly. It takes me multiple shootings cessions. I will also recommend to build 3 at a time....u will feel less overwhelmed. U will learn little things on the first 3 that will make the next 3 easier and even easier the next 3.....all the steps are important...u can build and tune the most bada%# arrows that fly amazing but if u forgot to scuff the ID and clean before insert install than u wasted all the time and effort on an arrow that has low structural integrity. That's why I like to only do 3 at a time...Im less likely to miss a step while daydreaming of world conquest...
Click to expand...

In some other reading I've seen that hotmelt can't be used with full carbon arrows, sounds like that was/is a fib?
 
MIPublic said:
In some other reading I've seen that hotmelt can't be used with full carbon arrows, sounds like that was/is a fib?
Click to expand...
I use hotmelt exclusivley. The blue stuff is low temp. I've never had the issues some people talk about.
 
So I went to my pro shop yesterday on my day off to look and see if they had any single arrows available to purchase, they did but not any in the range that I needed.

I did walk into a deal though, that was too good to pass up. They had a set of 12 Carbon Express Maxima Hunter 350s fletched with blazer vanes that someone had purchased, had cut, took them home to shoot a few and they were the wrong size. They wouldn't let the guy return them but have him a little store credit to buy others. I picked em up for $60. Only 3 or 4 were shot, the rest are perfect.

Ordered a set of ethics heads from arrowtuningkits.com and I'll start from there.
 
Archers Advantage online subscription is about $12 per year. For the money, you’re not going to find a better archery ballistics program. That’s what I used when it came to my first heavy arrow build. I also use it to generate sight tapes. Make the small investment, spend time in the site constructing your build, make sure your bow is tuned and you’ll be money!
 
just get a spine appropriate for your poundage and a point weight that is either 125 gr or 100 gr. You only need >10% FOC to be safe penetration wise (ashby stated you get no better performance until 30%)Stick to a fixed head, find one that broadhead tunes easy for your bow and form. Youll penetrate fine if you tune your bow and arrow to shoot dead on.

Or drop 500+ dollars to figure out a heavy arrow build because some crazy texan who only shoots pigs (which do need a heavier arrow and head) says you should.

personally, the 5mm axis carbon arrows are some of the best ive found. Gold Tip Hunter XT are good too. regular inserts are fine. You dont need brass inserts; the broadhead and poor arrow flight is your weak point. Yes inserts help strengthen but focus on tunability and sharp strong broadheads and youll be fine.

I shoot a 60 lb bow at 29.5” draw length. I target practice off season with 400 spines and 100 gr points, 4” wraps, 3 fletch blazers. I hunt with 340 spined and 125 gr fixed head. I use 4” wraps and 4 fletch for broadheads. My FOC is 11%, and anything I hit dies.

Grizzly arrows are super expensive and meant for african animals. If you plan to hunt kodiak bears or waterbuffalo then yeah, they are better. But overkill for US animals. Also, with your poundage id avoid FMJs. Those are for the Dudley and Cam Hanes poundage bows. Plus expensive as heck.
 
MIPublic said:
So I went to my pro shop yesterday on my day off to look and see if they had any single arrows available to purchase, they did but not any in the range that I needed.

I did walk into a deal though, that was too good to pass up. They had a set of 12 Carbon Express Maxima Hunter 350s fletched with blazer vanes that someone had purchased, had cut, took them home to shoot a few and they were the wrong size. They wouldn't let the guy return them but have him a little store credit to buy others. I picked em up for $60. Only 3 or 4 were shot, the rest are perfect.

Ordered a set of ethics heads from arrowtuningkits.com and I'll start from there.
Click to expand...
For future reference, Lancaster archery allows you to buy single shafts so you can get several to test.
 
JakeFromVirginia said:
just get a spine appropriate for your poundage and a point weight that is either 125 gr or 100 gr. You only need >10% FOC to be safe penetration wise (ashby stated you get no better performance until 30%)Stick to a fixed head, find one that broadhead tunes easy for your bow and form. Youll penetrate fine if you tune your bow and arrow to shoot dead on.

Or drop 500+ dollars to figure out a heavy arrow build because some crazy texan who only shoots pigs (which do need a heavier arrow and head) says you should.

personally, the 5mm axis carbon arrows are some of the best ive found. Gold Tip Hunter XT are good too. regular inserts are fine. You dont need brass inserts; the broadhead and poor arrow flight is your weak point. Yes inserts help strengthen but focus on tunability and sharp strong broadheads and youll be fine.

I shoot a 60 lb bow at 29.5” draw length. I target practice off season with 400 spines and 100 gr points, 4” wraps, 3 fletch blazers. I hunt with 340 spined and 125 gr fixed head. I use 4” wraps and 4 fletch for broadheads. My FOC is 11%, and anything I hit dies.

Grizzly arrows are super expensive and meant for african animals. If you plan to hunt kodiak bears or waterbuffalo then yeah, they are better. But overkill for US animals. Also, with your poundage id avoid FMJs. Those are for the Dudley and Cam Hanes poundage bows. Plus expensive as heck.
Click to expand...
Jake,
Ashby says 19% FOC is where the magic happens. But when you say grizzly sticks are expensive, why would you spend so little on the thing delivering the broadheads to the animal? Or the broadheads?
What do guys spend on bows? Saddle gear, stands, camo patterns, truck, campers, and so on. But yet don't want to spend another 100 on arrows or broadheads that are killing the deer?
I agree. You don't need 650 to kill deer. Feild tips can kill deer if hit in the right spot. Ashby reports are just saying 19% + FOC with good arrow flight and structural integrity are good killing machines. Plus an arrow shaft smaller than the broadheads feral to reduce drag.
If your gonna tune a bow to shoot a certain arrow. Why not stack the odds in your favor. The RF just says be prepared for plan B if you need it. Agree he is a little extreme. But he is getting guys thinking about there arrows and set up. Which is great for all archery Hunters.

Either way your should spend some time and money to find perfect arrow flight. 400gr or 700gr. Make em fly strait.
 
I don't understand the idea that it's a lot more expensive....u are buying the same components...yeah the inserts are more but the heavier broadheads aren't really any different unless u want them to be.....maybe 30-50 dollars more than building with "normal" components ...what am I missing?
 
Weldabeast said:
I don't understand the idea that it's a lot more expensive....u are buying the same components...yeah the inserts are more but the heavier broadheads aren't really any different unless u want them to be.....maybe 30-50 dollars more than building with "normal" components ...what am I missing?
Click to expand...
I agree. For some reason people automatically assume that a heavy arrow equals expensive arrow. You can buy some cabelas blackout arrows, Goldtip 100 grain brass inserts and magnus 150 grain broadheads for very reasonable prices. You’re not going to hit 650 but you should be low 500’s and close to 19% depending on arrow length.
 
Weldabeast said:
I don't understand the idea that it's a lot more expensive....u are buying the same components...yeah the inserts are more but the heavier broadheads aren't really any different unless u want them to be.....maybe 30-50 dollars more than building with "normal" components ...what am I missing?
Click to expand...
And to add to that. If you can sharpen your broadheads. You dont have to replace them. The response can be.. what if I loose one? Well. Weight them 650gr plus and watch em pass thru everything in the deer and stick in the ground. (Unless your hunting the ground in tall grass, or swampy Marsh.)
You will not see your arrow running off in the deer sticking 1/4 of the way out. I have had a hand full of arrows break from hanging out a running deer.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top