Bareshaft/ arrow tuning

[Tree hunter]

After that
I don’t with broad head and field points

I do it with broadhead and field points
I need to read before I hit post

 

[Iron_llama]

I start by shooting bareshafts through wax paper (really anything except newspaper which doesn't tear as well for me) until I get bullet holes every distance I shoot from 10 feet out to around 30 feet. I just randomly walk around in that range really. I am a bit more systematic if I encounter a problem. I then shoot fletched and bareshafts together at 10 yards and then 20 and then 25 yards. I then shoot fletched field points vs fletched broadheads at 40 yards.

I'm a bit confused. What's the advantage to shooting fletched and bareshafts together? I would have thought that once you have a bareshaft paper-tuned at an appropriate range, you'd fletch it and proceed from there. Is your goal to get your field points and broadheads to same 40-yd point of impact? My thinking is to get perfect bareshaft/field point arrow flight, then confirm fletched and tipped; if they're flying and grouping to my satisfaction I'd adjust my sight accordingly. If my field points impact 3" away from my broadheads NBD; as long as I know the variance between BH and FP I can practice pre-season.

 

[raisins]

I'm a bit confused. What's the advantage to shooting fletched and bareshafts together? I would have thought that once you have a bareshaft paper-tuned at an appropriate range, you'd fletch it and proceed from there. Is your goal to get your field points and broadheads to same 40-yd point of impact? My thinking is to get perfect bareshaft/field point arrow flight, then confirm fletched and tipped; if they're flying and grouping to my satisfaction I'd adjust my sight accordingly. If my field points impact 3" away from my broadheads NBD; as long as I know the variance between BH and FP I can practice pre-season.

My goal is to get my field points and broadheads to group together at 40 yards.

I could skip the bareshaft and fletched field point step and jump straight from paper tuning to broadhead tuning at 40 yards. I tend not to because my 25 yard range is better than my 40 yard range, so I'd rather do more shooting at 25 yards and then just check what is going on at 40 yards. I've found that if I get really good bareshaft flight at 25 yards that my 40 yard broadhead flight is also on point.

I always shoot bareshafts through wax paper first though because doing that relies less upon my shooting ability and also it is easier to squeeze off a shot perfectly when at close range and shooting at a blank piece of paper (rather than a dot at 25 yards).

 

[Iron_llama]

My goal is to get my field points and broadheads to group together at 40 yards.

I could skip the bareshaft and fletched field point step and jump straight from paper tuning to broadhead tuning at 40 yards. I tend not to because my 25 yard range is better than my 40 yard range, so I'd rather do more shooting at 25 yards and then just check what is going on at 40 yards. I've found that if I get really good bareshaft flight at 25 yards that I my 40 yard broadhead flight is also on point.

I always shoot bareshafts through wax paper first though because doing that relies less upon my shooting ability and also it is easier to squeeze off a shot perfectly when at close range and shooting at a blank piece of paper (rather than a dot at 25 yards).

What steps do you take to get your field points and broadheads grouping together at 40? Adjust weight?

 

[BTaylor]

Was always a Swiss Roll guy myself.

I aint hatin on them either.

 

[raisins]

What steps do you take to get your field points and broadheads grouping together at 40? Adjust weight?

Nope, I just tune the bow more. I have a Deadlock system bow now, so I usually use the Deadlock to adjust left/right and then microadjust my rest for up/down. I don't do any arrow tuning but don't really need to because I spine index all my shafts so that the weak/bendy side is "up", I square the front/back/insert, and then use a high quality pin nock.

I've found I can get any smaller fixed blade head (Wasp Drones and QAD Exodus recently) to hit with my field points so close that any deviation is likely down to my shooting ability. I'm a better tuner than a shooter, unfortunately!

 

[Samcirrus]

Nope, I just tune the bow more. I have a Deadlock system bow now, so I usually use the Deadlock to adjust left/right and then microadjust my rest for up/down. I don't do any arrow tuning but don't really need to because I spine index all my shafts so that the weak/bendy side is "up", I square the front/back/insert, and then use a high quality pin nock.

I've found I can get any smaller fixed blade head (Wasp Drones and QAD Exodus recently) to hit with my field points so close that any deviation is likely down to my shooting ability. I'm a better tuner than a shooter, unfortunately!

Which nock do you use? Do you measure and match serving thickness to nock gap?

 

[raisins]

Which nock do you use? Do you measure and match serving thickness to nock gap?

Hey Sam,

I use the Beiter pin nock in Hunter (symmetrical and heavier built).

Beiter Pin Nock

The first asymmetric pin nock Fits precisely on all pins, can be used with any arrow that utilizes a pin bushing Highest precision and lowest tolerances, every nock size is made from the same mold Asymmetrical design does not pinch the nocking point Size: #1 Asymmetric - Small Groove (.088"); #2...

lancasterarchery.com

I have never had one seem weird or break (but I don't shoot groups at the same spot).

I have had good luck with this nock fitting every string I've tried (it is a larger gap size but the snap-on portion is smaller....it just somehow always seems to work well). But the last string I bought I called them (TwistedX) and told them the nock I use. They have that one (and an assortment) on hand and they made my string/serving to match that nock well.

 

[Samcirrus]

I finally got my new Omnia shooting bullet holes! After reading and watching countless you tubes and spending too much on a bow press, draw board and vise and making a few targets and paper tuning device as well as playing with my nock point, rest, and S.E.T(took the top one apart to conceptualize it) i finally got it.... now to bareshaft/BH tune outside!

 

[jtw0057]

I finally got my new Omnia shooting bullet holes! After reading and watching countless you tubes and spending too much on a bow press, draw board and vise and making a few targets and paper tuning device as well as playing with my nock point, rest, and S.E.T(took the top one apart to conceptualize it) i finally got it.... now to bareshaft/BH tune outside!

Yeah it took me awhile with my new bow. It likes the nock set to be pretty high. I guess whatever the cams do when I draw levels it out. Cams are timed but there’s some other stuff going on that I don’t understand probably.


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[dalton916]

Walk back tuned fletched arrows last week (V3X 33). Bare shaft tuned last night. Perfect entry at 7, 20, 30 and 40. Yay, right? Nah…..

The whole time was spent knowing that this was undoing the walk back tuning. Which it did, lol.

Why are are my fletched arrows not hitting where my bare shafts are? Don’t know. Not so sure I even really care. I’ll tune my broadheads to my field points and roll with that. I mean, isn’t the end goal to put my broadhead where I’m aiming?

 

[Jimdude]

I know of 1 well known bow tec/archer that insists broadheads, fletched, and bare shafts should all hit together at least at 20 yards. Most others say bareshaft should hit low. Of them, many but not all say it should hit low-right for a right handed archer. In the end, perfect arrow flight is the goal. If the broadhead has to come out of the bow sideways to impact with the field points then there is a spine issue. That’s where I am at now. With a bullet hole in paper my broadheads hit 6” right and a few inches high. Weak arrow signs. I turned my poundage down and they came together. I turned my poundage back up and cut a half inch off my arrow and added wraps. These two things should stiffen my arrows enough but I haven’t had time to shoot yet.

 

[Cajunyankee]

This is something I have started doing to make sure my bare shaft weigh the same. I just cut the wire to match a fletched shaft with a lighted nock. It is usually long enough to distribute the weight about the same as fletching.