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Best non-mechanical belay/rappel device for 8mm rope

davecarp

Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2020
Messages
94
Location
Massachusetts
So trying to assess options here. Tough finding a rated non-mechanical device for single 8 mm ropes. Here's what I'm looking at, what are you all using? I have an older Trango Pyrimid that would probably work too but it's a little bit bulky and heavy, used it 20 yrs ago when I used to climb lol.

This is what I've been able to find that are rated for 8 mm single rope. What do ya think? Are there other options?
Kong Chuy
Mammut Crag Light
Rock Exotica mini 8
Black Diamond Alpine Guide ATC

Grivel mono master looked great appears to be out of production.
 
This is my first year singke sticking/rappelling I rappel with 8mm oplux. Very happy with my Grivel Figure 8 and 35cm Beal Jammy. Sets up in a minute, lots of control on the way down & stops on a dime.

I wish I was a headlight on a north-bound train
 
This is my first year singke sticking/rappelling I rappel with 8mm oplux. Very happy with my Grivel Figure 8 and 35cm Beal Jammy. Sets up in a minute, lots of control on the way down & stops on a dime.

I wish I was a headlight on a north-bound train

clip into the big end or the small end?
 
Are you sure the Kong Chuy is in spec for 8mm single rope? I don't think it is, but could be wrong.
 
Check out the super Munter hitch. That’s what i use on 9mil rope


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I use the Sterling ATS. It’s the only thing I’ve ever used but I’m happy with it.
 
Are you sure the Kong Chuy is in spec for 8mm single rope? I don't think it is, but could be wrong.

According to this it is... But I realize they can be talking about half or twin ropes... Little ambiguous as I've never had one in hand... DanO what's up with those Grivel 8s and monomasters?

 
I really like the mono master. I do see them for sell every now and then so keep your eye out. Its alot smoother than other atc's. I also use a kong gi gi
 
The Edelrid Micro Jul is specifically made for thinner ropes. I don't have one.
When they first came out with it, Edelrid offered twin 6.9mm ropes to go with it, called the Fly. I haven’t seen anybody offering them lately.

I tried some of the devices listed, the Mammut and the Madrock Wingman would work, but required some effort to hold while stopped. The Mini Eight also worked with less effort when using the horns for added friction. I found that the Click Up worked the best if used with a large diameter, round cross section carabiner like the Smart HMS, could go hands free if needed.
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Rescue fig 8 is what i use and i add friction by using taking the rope thru the middle hole to the carabiner
 
I bought mine off amazon, i think it was about $25, and done, with saddle hunting there are 1000 dif ways to do things but ive found for me, keeping it simple works best
 
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