Stay Sharp and KME will do what you need. They take a little practice but once you get it they sharpen heads extremely well.
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Best sharpening system for fixed blade Broadheads.
- Thread starter DroptineKrazy
- Start date
I bought a KME last summer. It works great. I had 150gr Samurai single bevel and the blades do need removed for the 150s. I now shoot 200 gr Samurai and those blades do not need removed.
Those Samurai are very sharp right out of the package but that KME takes them to a whole new level. Scary sharp!
Those Samurai are very sharp right out of the package but that KME takes them to a whole new level. Scary sharp!
Great I was doubting my purchase. I couldn't use it on my Iron Wills this year with the bleeders in. So I haven't had a chance to use it.
How do you like the Samurais Tom? I’m looking to get into a heavier arrow setup this offseason and they are one at the top of my list. The 200s. Have you taken anything with them yet? Now if I can figure out what arrow setup to pair with them...
I ordered that jig they demo'd. It's cheap, simple and does a great job. If you go with a three blade, just use wet or dry paper and they'll shave. I just do two edges at once on paper. You cannot mess up the angle. I shoot Snuffers and that style is dummy proof to get an edge.
I'm shooting the 200's. Haven't taken anything yet, but I have been shooting them on my new heavy arrow setup for a month. Went from a 347 gr total weight arrow to 614. They shoot great even at 60+ yards. If you want the details of how I went about my build, send me a PM. Don't want to hijack this thread with the details. I'll help you out any way I can.
I'm happy with them so far. I only shot 1 deer with them (one season) and had excellent results. 200 pound buck and the head exited the heaviest bone of the far shoulder. Excellent blood trail and the deer went down in about 50 yards.
664 grain Momentum shafts out of my 55 pound recurve...27" draw. These were the single bevel Samurai, black label version. Slightly harder steel than the Overkill version, but the Overkill are much more affordable.
BTW, I got the KME from Grizzlystik. They have a KME that comes with the diamond stones, a leather "stone" and a broadhead clamp. Not sure if those are included if you buy the KME elsewhere. The Grizzlystik website also has a good video on using the KME.
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I was just looking at the three blade jig. I shoot Woodsman's and can get them sharp with a flat file, jewel stick, and strop but, with the 60deg angle they just don't feel 'scary sharp'. Does the steeper angle the jig creates make a big difference?
I use that jig for two blades but for a three blade Snuffer, Woodsman, I use 180 wet/dry paper, then 400, and 800, and strope leather. Lay paper flat on smooth surface and drag two blades at same time. Saves the angles.
Got ya. I misread your post. I thought you were talking about this jig. https://staysharpguide.com/products/344
This one's peaked my interest, I think the steeper angle on a three blade will make a difference.
Stay sharp, 400/800/1500 sandpaper. I use buffing compound on cardboard in place of a strop. Only pull on the 1500 and buffing compound strokes. Stupid easy. I use exodus and iron will. I have a love hate with the iron wills because of so many angles to position in the jig it takes forever. The exodus I can have sharp in 3 minutes.
make sure you have a very flat surface like a countertop or commercially planed kitchen table.
I can’t think of an easier way to sharpen. The only skill required is knowing how Far into the jig to insert the blade, and how to hold something in your hand.
I have about 15 broadheads, and after 2.5 seasons, finally needed to sharpen some. The last doe I took was with one of the heads I sharpened. It was a good feeling knowing I can trust my work. Don’t be afraid.
make sure you have a very flat surface like a countertop or commercially planed kitchen table.
I can’t think of an easier way to sharpen. The only skill required is knowing how Far into the jig to insert the blade, and how to hold something in your hand.
I have about 15 broadheads, and after 2.5 seasons, finally needed to sharpen some. The last doe I took was with one of the heads I sharpened. It was a good feeling knowing I can trust my work. Don’t be afraid.
The only down side to the stay sharp is if ur factory grind is way off the angle of the jig. The first time u use the jig it can be tough(time consuming) to cut the new bevel angle but once ur broadhead is ground to that bevel it will be easy to touch up later. 90% of the work is done with ur course grit and the fine grit just shrinking the tiny scratches...leather or cardboard strop and a final thin coat of Vaseline to help ease the pain of insertion
I think I have had it all. KME is good but time consuming. The Razor Sharp cardboard wheel is great but just won't fit the fanny pack. The Rada is the bomb. It looks like a piece of crap, poorly made but sharpens better than anything I have owned.
for three blades like annihilators all you need is a packet of emery cloth with mixed grits. 200 to 1000 or 2000. Flat surface. Hold the BH with a glove and drag it across the surface point first. Flip 120deg, repeat. Flip 120deg repeat. Count strokes 10, 10, 10, 9, 9, 9...1,1,1. So this depending upon how dull or nicked. on 200, 600, 1000, 2000. You can also buy a flat piece of leather and some stropping compound, green would be good. If its still quite sharp when you start skip 200. Carful! Wear the gloves you can't cut.
For two blade, bleeders , or inserts. KME is great if you have straight blades. If you have curved blades get a Lansky sharpening kit with coarse, med, fine, and extra fine. Get a leather piece to strop on as well with compound - green. Drag backwards on the leather while moving to work with the curve.
There are 2 good reasons to shy away from convex and concurve blades.
1, they are harder to sharpen, and
2, the Ashby tests show they don't penetrate as well as a straight blade.