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Blade sharpening...WOW

Allegheny Tom

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2018
Messages
6,044
Location
Western Pennsylvania
I was browsing around YouTube the other day and I came upon this guy's channel.
The 1st video that I watched was on strops. I learned a lot and I decided I needed to watch a few more of his videos. Very educational.
The high magnification he uses showed me that I only thought I knew what a burr was. But if you view it down to the microscopic level I realized that I haven't really been forming and completely removing the burr...I just thought I was.
I also learned that if the microscopic burr remains, then it's that which allows an edge to dull so quickly. We have some higher end kitchen knives and I can get (what I thought) was a very sharp edge on them. But the edges just never hold up. No matter how carefully we baby those knives, the hair popping edge just won't last. I now realize that it's because I left a microscopic burr and it's actually the burr that rolls so quickly during use making the edge dull.
What this guy does that amazed me so much was what he did with the edge of a dollar store knife, yes a piece of crap $1 knife. Not only does he get them sharp enough to whittle hair, the edge is unbelievably durable.
He also addresses in a video using pull-thru type sharpeners and why they actually weaken the edge. Directional sharpening (which creates the microscopic scratch pattern) is critical to edge strength and retention. He doesn't really address directional cutting but when you see the high magnification images of scratch patterns, it seems obvious that the scratches produce an edge that cuts better in one direction than it does in the opposite direction. Will the direction of scratch patterns really matter when we sharpen a broadhead? Probably not but I contend that the edge will indeed cut better if the scratches are oriented based on the direction of the cut.
If for only one reason, watch his vids to see him whittle a hair. Absolutely incredible how sharp, and durable his edges are even with junk steel.


 
You can make a credit card sharp enough to shave if you really want to.

Yes those pull through, carbide sharpers(the Accusharp and similiar) absolutely destroy your knives. Good for those $1 dollar knives that you plan to throw away in a month
 
I was browsing around YouTube the other day and I came upon this guy's channel.
The 1st video that I watched was on strops. I learned a lot and I decided I needed to watch a few more of his videos. Very educational.
The high magnification he uses showed me that I only thought I knew what a burr was. But if you view it down to the microscopic level I realized that I haven't really been forming and completely removing the burr...I just thought I was.
I also learned that if the microscopic burr remains, then it's that which allows an edge to dull so quickly. We have some higher end kitchen knives and I can get (what I thought) was a very sharp edge on them. But the edges just never hold up. No matter how carefully we baby those knives, the hair popping edge just won't last. I now realize that it's because I left a microscopic burr and it's actually the burr that rolls so quickly during use making the edge dull.
What this guy does that amazed me so much was what he did with the edge of a dollar store knife, yes a piece of crap $1 knife. Not only does he get them sharp enough to whittle hair, the edge is unbelievably durable.
He also addresses in a video using pull-thru type sharpeners and why they actually weaken the edge. Directional sharpening (which creates the microscopic scratch pattern) is critical to edge strength and retention. He doesn't really address directional cutting but when you see the high magnification images of scratch patterns, it seems obvious that the scratches produce an edge that cuts better in one direction than it does in the opposite direction. Will the direction of scratch patterns really matter when we sharpen a broadhead? Probably not but I contend that the edge will indeed cut better if the scratches are oriented based on the direction of the cut.
If for only one reason, watch his vids to see him whittle a hair. Absolutely incredible how sharp, and durable his edges are even with junk steel.



this dude is for real. i used his info a few years ago and made my own strope. next level sharp
 
You can make a credit card sharp enough to shave if you really want to.

Yes those pull through, carbide sharpers(the Accusharp and similiar) absolutely destroy your knives. Good for those $1 dollar knives that you plan to throw away in a month

you are 100% correct, but what to use when you are quartering in the way back and need to touch up? i use this cause its small and cheap and i can have one in every pack. trying to strope in the way back with a blood soaked knife is not ideal. looking for better alternatives.

1707320345905.png
 
you are 100% correct, but what to use when you are quartering in the way back and need to touch up? i use this cause its small and cheap and i can have one in every pack. trying to strope in the way back with a blood soaked knife is not ideal. looking for better alternatives.

View attachment 99604
2nd knife. Or 2nd blade. I can sharpen a knife, but for a deer cleaner I just don't want to.
 
you are 100% correct, but what to use when you are quartering in the way back and need to touch up? i use this cause its small and cheap and i can have one in every pack. trying to strope in the way back with a blood soaked knife is not ideal. looking for better alternatives.

View attachment 99604
If you watch the videos, you'll see that it should be rare that you'd need to touch up a blade in the field. The guy takes a $1 knife (I think he actually paid $1.05 or something like that), sharpens it correctly, then he proceeds to cut and chop thru a 2x4 and the thing still slices paper with ease.
 
he's like 4 levels above me at least on sharpening. and i tend to get in a hurry and hit bone and then my edge is dull. 2nd knife/blade is an option if i have my kill kit on me. if not, i'm going to need to touch up. i'd like to see his blade after a few hogs. maybe its still good, but ... i'll keep trying to get better, but i may just not have it. that cheap pos will get you back to cutting. just have to redo edge when you get home.
 
you are 100% correct, but what to use when you are quartering in the way back and need to touch up? i use this cause its small and cheap and i can have one in every pack. trying to strope in the way back with a blood soaked knife is not ideal. looking for better alternatives.

View attachment 99604
You can touch up a knife any anything that is smooth really. Another knife, cardboard, rocks, screwdrivers, etc. If you got a belt on, theres a strop.
 
Free hand sharpening seems like an art to me. I just don't have the confidence to hold the proper bevel consistently so I use a Work Sharp precision adjust. I'll finish off with a strop I've made from some old scrap leather. I add meguiars mirror glaze buffing compound to on the rough suade side then finish on the smooth side of the leather. I like the precision adjust because you can set your bevel to your liking and/or the recommendation for your blade.
I'd have to say I've never had the need to re-sharpen in the field gutting and quartering a deer. Usually it'll just take a quick touch up on the finest stone and strop back at home when cleaned up. I'm sure the quality of the blade and steel has the most to do with this.
 
You can make a credit card sharp enough to shave if you really want to.

Yes those pull through, carbide sharpers(the Accusharp and similiar) absolutely destroy your knives. Good for those $1 dollar knives that you plan to throw away in a month

Yet they are so common and people always want to run my $100 Spydies through one! They think it is sharp because it creates a microserrated (tore the H up) blade that cuts for a little while.
 
I can usually get through 2 for sure and sometimes 3 deer if I have a knife in what I thought was really good shape. Guessing he could run through 25-30 deer with that $1.25 knife. I need more practice.

I've got a VG10 bladed Spydie hair popping sharp and been able to do a whole deer soup to nuts (disinfecting big time in between steps) before it was dull again. Gut, skin, quarter, and debone....all with a Stretch. The VG10 isn't the hardest steel but it is a good balance between hardness, toughness, corrosion resistance, and ease of sharpening (high end Japanese cutlery steel).
 
I got one of these on sale a couple years ago.
I haven't tried it yet, but I wear the belt all the time. Even a hook sharpener! It lives on my hunting pants and doesn't come off unless I wash them.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
 
I got one of these on sale a couple years ago.
I haven't tried it yet, but I wear the belt all the time. Even a hook sharpener! It lives on my hunting pants and doesn't come off unless I wash them.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
I don’t have that specific belt but I’m a fan of Grip6 belts in general.
 
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