BOLO for suspicious vines!

[catman529]

I don't think the hairy roots have urishiol on the surface. I was hoping, anyway.

I’m pretty sure the whole plant has it.


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[IkemanTX]

What two distances from the ground do you cut a gap? We’ve got a metric crap ton of poison ivy and I never had any luck cutting the hairy vines off the tree and coming back later. Plus, I am very reluctant to touch year old dry vines.

Anywhere along the vine (the lower the better) I will cut a 2-3” section out of it. All you need is enough space so that it can’t heal back across the wound.
For the greatest efficacy, you really need to cut in the fall, before it’s leaves start to change color. This keeps the plant from withdrawing energy back down into its root system as it transitions into dormancy. The spring green up is MUCH weaker when cut in the fall than when cut in winter. I rarely am covering enough new ground to be effective this time of year, though, and I am much more conservative in season than I am afterwards. Instead, I will still prune primarily post season, and use hand clippers to cut back any shoots that have grown up since my pre-spring decapitation. That means I only have to deal with the vine at ground level.... when I am best able to avoid it.

I have had varying degrees of reaction to poison ivy and oak in my life. At one point, I could roll around in the stuff and not get a reaction. Then, in my early 20’s, I would get a reaction if someone was even burning or brush hogging it within a mile of me.... now I would say I have a moderate reaction. I haven’t had a reaction (during season) to a spring cut vine in over 5 years. I have had some minor reactions to direct contact of a live plant, of course, but nothing involving a vine cut months prior.

One of my biggest improvements for me in poison ivy reactions, mosquito repellant, and spider / tick avoidance has been transitioning to a long sleeve synthetic undergarment. I coat it in permethrin to aid in mosquito repellant, which also helps me with ticks and spiders, and have benefited from not getting as much urushiol contact either. (active oil ingredient in poison ivy)

I HIGHLY recommend the long sleeve solution, and absolutely swear by cutting gaps in poison ivy. In fact, I cut back every vine (except a little smilax and grape vine) in a 10 acre patch on my father’s place about 3 years ago. The next spring the poison ivy plants EXPLODED in new growth low to the ground thanks to my late winter cutting, but I trimmed them back again before the dry summer heat. One last minor trimming a year later before fall dormancy, and there isn’t a dang poison ivy vine to be found. I haven’t seen poison ivy anywhere near climbing height since the very first year. I could climb any tree in that 10 acres and not worry one bit about poison ivy. As opposed to year 1 that had probably 70% of the trees with major vines to deal with.

If you feel like you can get away with it on the property you hunt.... coat the cut stump with a contact herbicide and kill that vine once and for all the same day you cut it. A small spray bottle with roundup concentrate or diluted Tordon will permanently kill the vine. No more worrying about it at that point. I don’t have any properties where I can get away with a herbicide, but if I hunted private land, I would invest in some in a HEARTBEAT.


................................................................................All climbing methods, platforms, saddle designs, and/or use of materials possibly mentioned in the post above are not peer reviewed for safety, and should only be used as an example of my own method. Do your own research and testing before becoming confident in any DIY solution to support your life.
-IkemanTx

 

[sojourner]

Anywhere along the vine (the lower the better) I will cut a 2-3” section out of it. All you need is enough space so that it can’t heal back across the wound.
For the greatest efficacy, you really need to cut in the fall, before it’s leaves start to change color. This keeps the plant from withdrawing energy back down into its root system as it transitions into dormancy. The spring green up is MUCH weaker when cut in the fall than when cut in winter. I rarely am covering enough new ground to be effective this time of year, though, and I am much more conservative in season than I am afterwards. Instead, I will still prune primarily post season, and use hand clippers to cut back any shoots that have grown up since my pre-spring decapitation. That means I only have to deal with the vine at ground level.... when I am best able to avoid it.

I have had varying degrees of reaction to poison ivy and oak in my life. At one point, I could roll around in the stuff and not get a reaction. Then, in my early 20’s, I would get a reaction if someone was even burning or brush hogging it within a mile of me.... now I would say I have a moderate reaction. I haven’t had a reaction (during season) to a spring cut vine in over 5 years. I have had some minor reactions to direct contact of a live plant, of course, but nothing involving a vine cut months prior.

One of my biggest improvements for me in poison ivy reactions, mosquito repellant, and spider / tick avoidance has been transitioning to a long sleeve synthetic undergarment. I coat it in permethrin to aid in mosquito repellant, which also helps me with ticks and spiders, and have benefited from not getting as much urushiol contact either. (active oil ingredient in poison ivy)

I HIGHLY recommend the long sleeve solution, and absolutely swear by cutting gaps in poison ivy. In fact, I cut back every vine (except a little smilax and grape vine) in a 10 acre patch on my father’s place about 3 years ago. The next spring the poison ivy plants EXPLODED in new growth low to the ground thanks to my late winter cutting, but I trimmed them back again before the dry summer heat. One last minor trimming a year later before fall dormancy, and there isn’t a dang poison ivy vine to be found. I haven’t seen poison ivy anywhere near climbing height since the very first year. I could climb any tree in that 10 acres and not worry one bit about poison ivy. As opposed to year 1 that had probably 70% of the trees with major vines to deal with.

If you feel like you can get away with it on the property you hunt.... coat the cut stump with a contact herbicide and kill that vine once and for all the same day you cut it. A small spray bottle with roundup concentrate or diluted Tordon will permanently kill the vine. No more worrying about it at that point. I don’t have any properties where I can get away with a herbicide, but if I hunted private land, I would invest in some in a HEARTBEAT.


................................................................................All climbing methods, platforms, saddle designs, and/or use of materials possibly mentioned in the post above are not peer reviewed for safety, and should only be used as an example of my own method. Do your own research and testing before becoming confident in any DIY solution to support your life.
-IkemanTx

Thanks! I am going to try the roundup or just bring a small machete with me this season.

I was out last weekend posting some nasty stuff and probably about 1/3 post were on trees with that de I’ll vine.

I have never had a reaction, but I try to avoid it and wash my hands like in the video above. Plus, I wear permerthtin pants and shirt (gamehide), froglegs boot/chap combo and (my favorite to not get ripped apart by the thorns (dans froglegs briar proof long sleeve shirt). Then after I am done, I wash the heck out of my hands.

If I remember, I will some pics of trees absolutely infested with the poison ivy.

 

[dpierce72]

Murphys Law: 90% of the trees I need to be in have Poison Oak! Long sleeves/thin gloves are a MUST. I feel your pain ...unfortunately!

 

[Hannah Nyitrai]

Murphys Law: 90% of the trees I need to be in have Poison Oak! Long sleeves/thin gloves are a MUST. I feel your pain ...unfortunately!

It's brutal!