Cam cleat rope

[sdoyle1]

I’ve got a Schaefer cam cleat ordered to add to an Eastern Woods Outdoors climbing stick for one stick climbing. I’ve read everything I can find on cam cleats. I’m still not sure on what rope to use with the cam cleat. I’d really appreciate some input into what you use and why you do or don’t like it. Thanks in advance.


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[DConnorsIndy]

¼ Amsteel is working well.

I use a standard harken 150.

Tried 6.0 mm accessory cord and it was a little spongy for my piece of mind.


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[Aaronpaul14]

Full bury 1/8” amsteel has been my best tested option.

 

[sdoyle1]

Full bury 1/8” amsteel has been my best tested option.

Are you just doing a Brummell lock loop around stick and then a full bury? I have plenty of 1/8” amsteel.


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[Aaronpaul14]

Are you just doing a Brummell lock loop around stick and then a full bury? I have plenty of 1/8” amsteel.


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I make the loop and then full bury and then another loop. Then finish it off with some shock cord to help keep it organized. I’m just girth hitching mine below the cam cleat.

 

[stevethebreeze]

 

[CZMark]

I've been using 5mm Maxim Tech Cord with good results.

 

[Buckhorn70]

Which Cleat to order?

 

[boyne bowhunter]

I've had excellent results using 6mm Samson accessory cord. I'm on the 3rd season on my Helium with the cam cleat and it's still holding up well.

 

[Razorbak66]

I did mine slightly different I’m using a micro cleat on my LW cutoff and along side to the cleat I drilled a hole and chamfer it and smoothed out the hole then I did a fully bury 1/8 amsteel and made a long loop and ran it down the hole to the bottom hole and ran the loop around the bolt that connects the stand off and at the hole I have near cleat I shrink wrap and electrical tape the amsteel where it meets the hole about 1” in either side and have been using it pretty good and on my hawk stick I’m using a harken 150 with a full bury 3/16 amsteel and girth hitching it under the cleat

 

[Chandler96]

I did mine slightly different I’m using a micro cleat on my LW cutoff and along side to the cleat I drilled a hole and chamfer it and smoothed out the hole then I did a fully bury 1/8 amsteel and made a long loop and ran it down the hole to the bottom hole and ran the loop around the bolt that connects the stand off and at the hole I have near cleat I shrink wrap and electrical tape the amsteel where it meets the hole about 1” in either side and have been using it pretty good and on my hawk stick I’m using a harken 150 with a full bury 3/16 amsteel and girth hitching it under the cleat

How hard is it to do a full bury for this?

 

[Razorbak66]

Full bury is easy got to do it in stages I found I do like 20” at a time as my wire reaches that far. I insert and pull until I come out of hole then pull tag end out to side and reinsert 20” down and repeat

 

[Chandler96]

Full bury is easy got to do it in stages I found I do like 20” at a time as my wire reaches that far. I insert and pull until I come out of hole then pull tag end out to side and reinsert 20” down and repeat

did you just up a hanger or something? i feel like thats long

 

[Razorbak66]

You can but I used a heavy wire that I doubled over and twisted several times to create a loop

 

[billfrommo]

Im using 6mm trc. seems to be working fine.

 

[mtsrunner]

Full bury 1/8” Amsteel would’ve my choice. Coat hanger is too thick. Go to Hobby Lobby or similar store and get a roll of 18 gauge copper wire. Snip about a 4’ piece and double it over. I do a ton of splicing and the I love how smooth the copper wire is.

 

[sdoyle1]

Any suggestions on length to start with for 1/8” amsteel full bury?


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[mtsrunner]

Any suggestions on length to start with for 1/8” amsteel full bury?


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14’. You are going to lose about a foot or so due to double diameter. If you make a small loop, you’ll end up with a working length of around 6-6.5’.


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