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Can speed and lightest buy accuracy is target arrows built?

HuumanCreed

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2020
Messages
2,683
Location
Westminster Maryland
Thinking about dialing my backup bow all the way down to 45-50lbs and my draw is 27DL. Using it solely to practice on my form and learning back tension release. So no broadheads or FOC concerns. Just maximum accuracy. I have no experience with tournament built or trend, but l am learning. Just wanted to get some advice from people that does archery outside of hunting, are lighter arrows more forgiving due to speed? I know they need to fly straight and tune well. But what is the basic principles in building a efficient arrow if you disregard the hunting needs? Or am l asking the wrong questions and not understanding something?
 
I think you’re asking the wrong questions here. if you want a bow solely to practice with and to make YOU a better shooter with your main hunting setup, why would you want a bow that was more accurate? Learning to shoot accurately with a less forgiving setup would make you a better shooter.

If you want to shoot 3D archery or indoor archery or something that’s a different story. Competing will make you much better with your bow (unless you get target panic!) and it’s a boatload of fun. Most serious 3D shoots will have a speed limit on bows because the higher speed allows more room for error on guessing yardages. Your bow won’t be shooting near that fast with your weight and draw…

I guess to answer your question, yes, a lighter arrow traveling faster will be more forgiving in the vertical plane because the arrow drops slower. It won’t be any more forgiving right to left though.

here’s my thought, if you really want to have an accurate bow, and be accurate with it: Invest time in YOURSELF. Practice right every day.Don’t go bomb 100 arrows at rapid speed and think it’s all about quantity. Shoot 15 arrows and consciously draw and float the pin on the bullseye for several seconds while easing into your release. If you find yourself about to punch the trigger or floating off target just let down. It’s all about quality in practice.

Learn more about tuning your bow yourself, don’t just count on paper tuning at the bow shop and sticking any arrow in it. Learn what the difference between dynamic spine and static spine is and what you need. Tune your bow perfectly with 4 different methods then change rests. Watch hours and hours of content on bow tuning and then go try some of it.

In my opinion archery is the kind of sport where the gear has a lot to do with how good you are. If you give Levi Morgan an old wheel bow and a mix matched quiver of Craigslist arrows he might still be pretty good, but he won’t look like the best in the world. LEARN about building arrows. I think that’s where accuracy really lies.

It takes time brother and lots of patience, if you want to solely work on your release I really recommend making a loop of paracord around something similar to your bow grip and dry firing your release a lot.
 
I think you’re asking the wrong questions here. if you want a bow solely to practice with and to make YOU a better shooter with your main hunting setup, why would you want a bow that was more accurate? Learning to shoot accurately with a less forgiving setup would make you a better shooter.

If you want to shoot 3D archery or indoor archery or something that’s a different story. Competing will make you much better with your bow (unless you get target panic!) and it’s a boatload of fun. Most serious 3D shoots will have a speed limit on bows because the higher speed allows more room for error on guessing yardages. Your bow won’t be shooting near that fast with your weight and draw…

I guess to answer your question, yes, a lighter arrow traveling faster will be more forgiving in the vertical plane because the arrow drops slower. It won’t be any more forgiving right to left though.

here’s my thought, if you really want to have an accurate bow, and be accurate with it: Invest time in YOURSELF. Practice right every day.Don’t go bomb 100 arrows at rapid speed and think it’s all about quantity. Shoot 15 arrows and consciously draw and float the pin on the bullseye for several seconds while easing into your release. If you find yourself about to punch the trigger or floating off target just let down. It’s all about quality in practice.

Learn more about tuning your bow yourself, don’t just count on paper tuning at the bow shop and sticking any arrow in it. Learn what the difference between dynamic spine and static spine is and what you need. Tune your bow perfectly with 4 different methods then change rests. Watch hours and hours of content on bow tuning and then go try some of it.

In my opinion archery is the kind of sport where the gear has a lot to do with how good you are. If you give Levi Morgan an old wheel bow and a mix matched quiver of Craigslist arrows he might still be pretty good, but he won’t look like the best in the world. LEARN about building arrows. I think that’s where accuracy really lies.

It takes time brother and lots of patience, if you want to solely work on your release I really recommend making a loop of paracord around something similar to your bow grip and dry firing your release a lot.

A little miscommunication. I wasnt planning to get a new bow, was planning to built a new arrow setup that l had no experience before. Like if l did not care for FOC, would a lighter arrow be inherently more accurate?

Thank you for all the great insights. I did not know that there were speed limits in competitions, make sense l guess or the giants would have a clear advantages. No doubt in the beginning, l need to invest more into improving myself before the equipments.
 
If you really want a good challenge. I would use my hunting setup for 3D. I use my hunting weight arrows for 3D course’s. In theory your arrows go where you put them. Heavy or light does not matter so long as you have a tuned bow. Yes some wind can have effect but we aren’t pros ! I shoot 500 grain arrows. If I went to a lighter setup I would be changing my anchor now to adjust for closer pin gaps on my sight. My current setup gets me from 20-95 yards on a single pin slider. Slight changes but they make a difference. I switched to a thumb release a few years back. Just that alone was enough to aid in making my form better. If I didn’t have enough back tension it shows. I would shoot low. Arrows would be the last of my concern if you are chasing form and learning back tension.
 
Arrow wise…lighter is always more critical. Think about it…..it takes less to deviate off course. Heavy things need more to move them. That’s why my Mathews target bow is 42” ata and not 30”.
 
If you ever get into long range stuff, which is great practice, I always found my 6-700 grain arrows flew better and grouped better than 4-500 at 80+ yards.
 
^^^ You would need to KNOW the distance within the half yard with arrows that heavy at longer range!
Oh yeah, the public range here in town goes to 80 yards, but if you step out into the parking lot and shoot you can get a 130 yard shot. If you stand on the top of the slide in the playground its a 110 yard shot from 30 feet up. Don't ask me how i know...
 
Dialing your draw weight back will probably make you more accurate, because you'll be able to hold it easier. I don't know that it will help you learn back-tension releasing better. Accuracy comes from a couple of different things in my experience. Probably the most important is personal consistency. Build good habits, and always do the same thing. Most of us have like a little ritual we do when we shoot, and you'll see it if you watch us shoot. Second is having your bow dialed in to your consistencies. Get good arrows. A good FOC really helps, no lie. You want the front of the arrow pulling the tail through the air, so that the fletching can do its job and drive that arrow. They're the wheels of the car, as it were.

Whether or not a lighter arrow is 'more forgiving' is kind of like two kids sitting on either side of the see-saw. A lighter arrow will probably fly faster and flatter, which leads to being more vertically forgiving. An arrow with a solid FOC will be more inherently accurate. In the end it really just depends on what you yourself want. The lighter arrow is also usually fires louder than a heavier arrow, because the arrow absorbs less force compared to a heavier arrow. If I'm wrong, please correct me.
 
I am not a target archer for target archery sake. I use an indoor range at 20 yards to site my bow. And an outdoor shop for 30 and 40 yards pin sets. I know the further out you shoot the easier a short range shot becomes. However I was always taught practice how you play. That way the conditions are similar and muscle memory develops. If you want to be a target archer, then a well balanced arrow and longer more forgiving bow will be the answer but that won’t translate to success in the field. If you use the arrow set up and bow you plan to hunt, at distances you plan to shoot, then that should translate to successful shots in the field. Backing off your draw weight will help with form but it will also change things such as your sight pin placement and possibly even your arrow set up. Keep that in mind as well
 
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