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Changing arrows

Jammintree

Jammintree

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2021
Messages
2,182
So this season I went through way too many arrows with my compound and need to outfit myself for next season. I was shooting FMJ’s and frankly wasn’t pleased with their durability. So I’ve got a bunch of generic carbon shaft arrows at a 400 spine already on hand and want to see how they’d shoot in my setup. I’ve got a hoyt RX5 and shoot about 60lb draw weight. So my question is this: should I cut a carbon arrow to the same length as the FMJs and shoot it to see how it flies, or should I cut the carbon shaft a little longer and go from there?
 
im making the switch away from FMJs as well this year...i ordered some 340 spine gold tip hunter xts. Kept the length same as my FMJs...i was more focused on getting the weight and FOC close to my FMJs as i would expect this will still give me similar flight characteristics (i could be completely wrong, im no engineer) and i will just tweak from there. when in doubt though, go longer first as you cant add it back once you cut.
 
Jammintree said:
So this season I went through way too many arrows with my compound and need to outfit myself for next season. I was shooting FMJ’s and frankly wasn’t pleased with their durability. So I’ve got a bunch of generic carbon shaft arrows at a 400 spine already on hand and want to see how they’d shoot in my setup. I’ve got a hoyt RX5 and shoot about 60lb draw weight. So my question is this: should I cut a carbon arrow to the same length as the FMJs and shoot it to see how it flies, or should I cut the carbon shaft a little longer and go from there?
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If the fmj's were 400 spine then similar length should work fine for similar point weight. TAW will likely be a bit lower so if you are shooting for the same or close TAW and add that to the front, you may need to go up a spine depending on weight adjustment.
 
BTaylor said:
If the fmj's were 400 spine then similar length should work fine for similar point weight. TAW will likely be a bit lower so if you are shooting for the same or close TAW and add that to the front, you may need to go up a spine depending on weight adjustment.
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spot on. My FMJs are 400 and i needed to load up the front of the GTs a bit to get same TAW, hence the 340 spine for my new ones.
 
Jammintree said:
So this season I went through way too many arrows with my compound and need to outfit myself for next season. I was shooting FMJ’s and frankly wasn’t pleased with their durability. So I’ve got a bunch of generic carbon shaft arrows at a 400 spine already on hand and want to see how they’d shoot in my setup. I’ve got a hoyt RX5 and shoot about 60lb draw weight. So my question is this: should I cut a carbon arrow to the same length as the FMJs and shoot it to see how it flies, or should I cut the carbon shaft a little longer and go from there?
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Ranch Fairy has a pretty good video series on this. You can use his "heavy arrow handload" process on standard-weight arrows just fine. Basically, get shafts in 2 different spines and experiment with point weight until you determine what point weight you need. I like to have my shafts long enough that I won't contact the broadhead with my index finger. So maybe 1/2" longer that what you have now, depending on how it fits?
 
Jammintree said:
So this season I went through way too many arrows with my compound and need to outfit myself for next season. I was shooting FMJ’s and frankly wasn’t pleased with their durability. So I’ve got a bunch of generic carbon shaft arrows at a 400 spine already on hand and want to see how they’d shoot in my setup. I’ve got a hoyt RX5 and shoot about 60lb draw weight. So my question is this: should I cut a carbon arrow to the same length as the FMJs and shoot it to see how it flies, or should I cut the carbon shaft a little longer and go from there?
Click to expand...

What's your draw length? And do you like to keep your broadhead out in front or are you like me and just cut it 1 inch in front of the arrow rest? (no clue how folks grip and shoot a bow to cut their fingers with modern full containment rests) That extra length is about a spine jump.

Compound bows shot with a release are really tolerant. I'd cut one to your preferred length first and use a standard insert (no extra weight) and a 100 grain point and it should tune fine so long as your arrows aren't very long. I would personally prefer a 340 to 350 spine with either a 100 or 125 grain point, but what you have should fly true if you are careful with your tuning process.

@BTaylor was right to just do one soup to nuts before you cut the batch.
 
I appreciate all the thoughtful responses, suggestions and questions. I’ve been sick as a dog and haven’t been able to get out to the garage to take measurements and gather specs. But, in the near future that’s exactly what I’ll do and will get back to you. Thanks for your patience and understanding!
 
I million ways to get this done. Probably the most accurate way is to cut a little long and shoot a bare shaft. Keep trimming until bullet hole. Small cut like 1/4” can make a difference. But, there is a huge push to way over spine or add tons of weight. Use whatever system gives you confidence.
 
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