check those friction hitches

[Coachschaller]

was watching the core come through the sheath. Time to switch the hitch...
This was 7mm accessory cord tied with a JRB ascender in soft bridge mode. I use it for tether, some SRT, and back up for rappel.

Flat spots (it was starting to bind a little bit)



core coming through. Several spots like this:



and where my carabiner attaches to the hitch:




Should I trash this piece of cord? Relegate it to a less stressful place in my system ( I use friction hitches on my linesman as well)? Maybe just use it for tying practice?

Could be normal wear, or a function of this particular brand of cord.

 

[TooheyBirdie]

Do whatever you want with the cord but don't trust your life on it anymore

 

[Hall17]

Replace it. No reason to risk your life with a rope that is at its end of its life

 

[Coachschaller]

Oh yeah, already replaced.

 

[Jammintree]

Can you tell us more about that cord?

I like to Tie my knots in the field and assemble and disassemble my climbing system every time I climb; it provides a chance to inspect all gear before and after every climb.

Im guessing that rope isn’t matched well to its task

Hopefully some of our knowledgeable members will chime in.

@Fl Canopy Stalker

 

[Hall17]

I bought a tether, carabiner and Beal jammy off the classifieds here and Jammy was compromised when I got it. Surprised the seller even sold it to me. But yes always inspect ropes and hitch cords.

 

[Brocky]

I bought a tether, carabiner and Beal jammy off the classifieds here and Jammy was compromised when I got it. Surprised the seller even sold it to me. But yes always inspect ropes and hitch cords.

There is less danger of failure with Beal’s cover because the core is braided, not as likely to pop through as the twisted parallel core of most accessory cords. My guess is this cord is made by New England Ropes, their accessory cord covers are very loose. I heard the same thing can happen if this type of rope, the parallel strands core, is used for a bridge.

 

[Weldabeast]

I've only been messing with this kinda stuff for 3 or 4 years but from what I've seen and try to implement myself is to undo ur friction hitches fairly often. I used to just leave them always tied and they wear out faster doing that. The rope sometimes has some memory to it and I'll try to make sure when I retie the knots that the rope is oriented slightly different so it's not exactly the same to combat the flat spots. Dirt is the biggest enemy.....and not all hitch cord material is the same....some types of rope lasts for years and some wearing out in just a season. I used to cheap out on it but reluctantly fork out for the more higher quality now a days. Rope combinations also play a big part too...rougher sheath on the mainline and softer sheath on hitch cord gonna wear out faster than other combo of rope.

I thought at 1 point there was a thread here on SH of specific rope/hitch combinations and how they acted and behaved and people giving pro/con of the combo they used together

 

[Fl Canopy Stalker]

I tried to avoid commenting on this one as he was using a JRB something or another and usually John is quick to respond to any thread that mentions ropes, climbing, or friction hitches. The 7mm cord you are using appears to have a loose braided cover and a twisted core. In my opinion that isn’t the correct rope for the tasks you’re asking it to perform. With a kermantle accessory cord, you either want a stiff thicker cover or a braided core to keep that from happening, or you want a true climbing double braided rope. I would throw that rope away and replace it with rope more suited for your specific tasks.

 

[DroptineKrazy]

Pretty simple if you ask me. Once you get a hitch/rope combo that works for you, replace the hitch every year or two depending on how often you hunt. If you get 20 sits in during a season then every 2 years . If you hunt 128 days a season then every year. Hitches are a lot cheaper than funerals.

 

[Coachschaller]

Can you tell us more about that cord?

I like to Tie my knots in the field and assemble and disassemble my climbing system every time I climb; it provides a chance to inspect all gear before and after every climb.

Im guessing that rope isn’t matched well to its task

Hopefully some of our knowledgeable members will chime in.

@Fl Canopy Stalker

I either got the cord at Toledo Knot and Rope, or at a climbing gym, can't remember. I believe it is 7mm accessory cord, I don't think it is Sterling. I do have some 5 or 6 mm cord that is made by New England and it is much stiffer than this stuff.

I used the hitch cord last year and a bit the year before. I just tie the hitch cord at home and keep it on my rope. But I do inspect it and test it with a backup - lineman's still attached, platform under me, etc...

I replaced this one with some Sterling 7mm. It is a little stiffer and time will tell how well it works.

I appreciate all the discussion. Great way to keep everyone learning and safe.

 

[Coachschaller]

I tried to avoid commenting on this one as he was using a JRB something or another and usually John is quick to respond to any thread that mentions ropes, climbing, or friction hitches. The 7mm cord you are using appears to have a loose braided cover and a twisted core. In my opinion that isn’t the correct rope for the tasks you’re asking it to perform. With a kermantle accessory cord, you either want a stiff thicker cover or a braided core to keep that from happening, or you want a true climbing double braided rope. I would throw that rope away and replace it with rope more suited for your specific tasks.

Good info, and thanks for commenting, I always appreciate reading your posts. I am testing out a couple different cords for my hitches. So far a 5 or 6 mm cord made by New England (bought from Toledo Knot and Rope), also a 7mm Sterling. I have a couple of Bee line premade cords for Prusiks, but I will need to get longer sections.

 

[Fl Canopy Stalker]

Good info, and thanks for commenting, I always appreciate reading your posts. I am testing out a couple different cords for my hitches. So far a 5 or 6 mm cord made by New England (bought from Toledo Knot and Rope), also a 7mm Sterling. I have a couple of Bee line premade cords for Prusiks, but I will need to get longer sections.

Another great option is Bluewater ropes. They specialize in canyoneering, mountain climbing and tatical rescue. All their ropes and cords are incredibly tough

 

[Brocky]

Another great option is Bluewater ropes. They specialize in canyoneering, mountain climbing and tatical rescue. All their ropes and cords are incredibly tough

Do you know if their VT Prusik cord is available by the foot?

 

[Fl Canopy Stalker]

Do you know if their VT Prusik cord is available by the foot?

I don’t think they sell it by the foot to the general public but I might be able to convince them to sell it to me by the foot as distributor. If I can convince mark to do that, I’ll let you know

 

[Halfstep]

Pretty simple if you ask me. Once you get a hitch/rope combo that works for you, replace the hitch every year or two depending on how often you hunt. If you get 20 sits in during a season then every 2 years . If you hunt 128 days a season then every year. Hitches are a lot cheaper than funerals.

What is even more expensive than a funeral is surviving the fall. Been there and done that.

 

[Samcirrus]

I will say this: the sterling trc 6mm is really hardy and durable on bothe the canyon c-iv as well as the teufelberger resc tech. The sheaths on my jrb ascenders have held up all season and many rappels.