D Loop Material Preference

[USSHornet]

Ok, do you prefer BCY #24 or BCY #23 or something else? I started with BCY D Braid and then BCY #24 which I think may be the same thing. It burned ok but seemed kinda limp and wore faster. So I went to BCY #23 but its a bitch to burn but I do like the end result if I can get those burns good.

Was wondering what you guys use.

Thanks in advance trying to get my bow going for summer practice


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[raisins]

bcy 23, but i skip the melt

i tie a simple overhand on one side, leaving a tag end, and pre-stretch the cord using that tag end which also tightens the overhand very small (bcy 23 is like very thin amsteel)

i then tie my d loop and then finish with another knot pulled as tight as i can muster while on the string

tag ends are shortened, fluffed, and melted against the end of the overhand knots

this is the only d loop cord thin and slick enough to knot down very small, around the size of a large bcy 24 melted end

this method avoids heat near your string (melting 1 small tag end on bow is nothing), is super easy and fast, and is more secure than a melted ball

 

[10essee]

bcy 23, but i skip the melt

i tie a simple overhand on one side, leaving a tag end, and pre-stretch the cord using that tag end which also tightens the overhand very small (bcy 23 is like very thin amsteel)

i then tie my d loop and then finish with another knot pulled as tight as i can muster while on the string

tag ends are shortened, fluffed, and melted against the end of the overhand knots

this is the only d loop cord thin and slick enough to knot down very small, around the size of a large bcy 24 melted end

this method avoids heat near your string (melting 1 small tag end on bow is nothing), is super easy and fast, and is more secure than a melted ball

Can you post a pic of this method. I usually go with 24 but might be interested in changing.

 

[raisins]

Can you post a pic of this method. I usually go with 24 but might be interested in changing.

 

[raisins]

Can you post a pic of this method. I usually go with 24 but might be interested in changing.

I forgot to mention that i put a small amount of silicone based string wax in the spot where i'll tie the overhands, this further shrinks knot size by allowing it to get very tight

 

[10essee]

View attachment 65941

Ahhh. I see. Stopper knots. Nice

 

[woodsdog2]

I typically use BCY 23 it does take a little more time to burn though. Last year I got this other stuff in a 100ft. roll off of Amazon for $11 and use it for d loops and my drop away rest cords. It’s a bit bulkier but I’ve grown to like it and it burns great too.

 

[USSHornet]

Thanks looks good.!!!


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[raisins]

I typically use BCY 23 it does take a little more time to burn though. Last year I got this other stuff in a 100ft. roll off of Amazon for $11 and use it for d loops and my drop away rest cords. It’s a bit bulkier but I’ve grown to like it and it burns great too.

I haven't gone down this route, since I use the knot, but supposedly you can get a wood burner or soldering iron and chuck a bolt into it that has the top drilled out. This will melt the ball to perfection, coming out the size and shape of the indentation you created. It also avoids burning the d loop which causes it to weaken.

 

[woodsdog2]

I've never had a problem just burning the ends to create the flattened out ends to prevent slipping. Usually when the color of the material really starts to lighten where the release contacts the material, I'll change out my D-loop. That occurs after several hundred shots. So far this stuff has been quite durable and burns better than the BCY 23. Like I said, its stiffer and bulkier too. I've also used BCY's "Rope Cocking Cord" in the past for d loop material but it stretches a little more but is quite durable and burns well too.

 

[USSHornet]

bcy 23, but i skip the melt

i tie a simple overhand on one side, leaving a tag end, and pre-stretch the cord using that tag end which also tightens the overhand very small (bcy 23 is like very thin amsteel)

i then tie my d loop and then finish with another knot pulled as tight as i can muster while on the string

tag ends are shortened, fluffed, and melted against the end of the overhand knots

this is the only d loop cord thin and slick enough to knot down very small, around the size of a large bcy 24 melted end

this method avoids heat near your string (melting 1 small tag end on bow is nothing), is super easy and fast, and is more secure than a melted ball

I had the ball come loose once and busted myself right in the mouth drawing the bow

So I am persnickety about that burned ball and it has to be perfect or I start over I don’t like seeing guys flatten out that ball with their lighter either to me that weakens it


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[raisins]

I had the ball come loose once and busted myself right in the mouth drawing the bow

So I am persnickety about that burned ball and it has to be perfect or I start over I don’t like seeing guys flatten out that ball with their lighter either to me that weakens it


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the overhand knots in place of the melted balls works great....the only 2 things about it: 1. you have to use thin d loop material or the overhands are too large and 2. guys that work at bow shops will tell you that you did it wrong and keep offering to fix it for you

 

[woodsdog2]

the overhand knots in place of the melted balls works great....the only 2 things about it: 1. you have to use thin d loop material or the overhands are too large and 2. guys that work at bow shops will tell you that you did it wrong and keep offering to fix it for you

I like the stopper knot idea a lot but I'm certain I would not have the patience to do it and I don't care what the bow shops think as I don't use them anymore. I pretty much do it all myself now.

 

[raisins]

I like the stopper knot idea a lot but I'm certain I would not have the patience to do it and I don't care what the bow shops think as I don't use them anymore. I pretty much do it all myself now.

Stopper knot is actually way easier to do, at least for me.

 

[USSHornet]

the overhand knots in place of the melted balls works great....the only 2 things about it: 1. you have to use thin d loop material or the overhands are too large and 2. guys that work at bow shops will tell you that you did it wrong and keep offering to fix it for you

Can you post a pic? Graci for the new approach!!!


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[raisins]

Can you post a pic? Graci for the new approach!!!


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this is a blurry one I found on my phone (don't have my bow with me) from where someone else asked a while back....weird i deleted the good pictures (and can't find the original post with them either)

that is bcy 23, i put bowstring wax around where the overhands will be

i first tie an overhand in a long piece of bcy 23, i first wax the area of the first overhand near the end, put that tag end in a vice, wrap a screw driver from the part emerging and pull....this takes any stretch out of the already low stretch spectra BCY 23 and also makes that overhand very small....i trim the short tag coming off that knot then fluff and melt down

i know the lengths i need, so i take that out of the vice, measure from the knot and mark with a sharpie (i can't remember my personal lengthy off hand....in notes...everyone is different here somewhat)

i then tie the d loop knot and tie my last overhand while it is on the bow....i tied it so that the knot will touch my black sharpie mark....i use the wax and just hand pull it the best I can while it is on the bow (just the overhand)

then do whatever you do next to set you d loop to your peep, make sure it is tight, etc

anymore, my peeps are so well behaved that i don't have to have a ridiculously tight d loop (that causes serving separation) in order to correct for a bad peep twist

I usually just put my release on the d loop, line everything up, and just pull with the release while holding the string

shooting sets it in and I make some micro adjustments.....i like my d loop to be moveable by hand if things start to micro change

some folks will think those overhands are huge....but in person they are only slightly larger than a bcy 24 melted ball (if you are good at melting them)....i've also heard them called heavy....the extra material in those knots is less than a grain

upsides are once you do this once, it is very easy to get an exact length....you don't need to put flame anywhere near your string....and these are never coming off or breaking

 

[USSHornet]

this is a blurry one I found on my phone (don't have my bow with me) from where someone else asked a while back....weird i deleted the good pictures (and can't find the original post with them either)

that is bcy 23, i put bowstring wax around where the overhands will be

i first tie an overhand in a long piece of bcy 23, i first wax the area of the first overhand near the end, put that tag end in a vice, wrap a screw driver from the part emerging and pull....this takes any stretch out of the already low stretch spectra BCY 23 and also makes that overhand very small....i trim the short tag coming off that knot then fluff and melt down

i know the lengths i need, so i take that out of the vice, measure from the knot and mark with a sharpie (i can't remember my personal lengthy off hand....in notes...everyone is different here somewhat)

i then tie the d loop knot and tie my last overhand while it is on the bow....i tied it so that the knot will touch my black sharpie mark....i use the wax and just hand pull it the best I can while it is on the bow (just the overhand)

then do whatever you do next to set you d loop to your peep, make sure it is tight, etc

anymore, my peeps are so well behaved that i don't have to have a ridiculously tight d loop (that causes serving separation) in order to correct for a bad peep twist

I usually just put my release on the d loop, line everything up, and just pull with the release while holding the string

shooting sets it in and I make some micro adjustments.....i like my d loop to be moveable by hand if things start to micro change

some folks will think those overhands are huge....but in person they are only slightly larger than a bcy 24 melted ball (if you are good at melting them)....i've also heard them called heavy....the extra material in those knots is less than a grain

upsides are once you do this once, it is very easy to get an exact length....you don't need to put flame anywhere near your string....and these are never coming off or breaking

Those look good! Thanks for posting!


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[USSHornet]

this is a blurry one I found on my phone (don't have my bow with me) from where someone else asked a while back....weird i deleted the good pictures (and can't find the original post with them either)

that is bcy 23, i put bowstring wax around where the overhands will be

i first tie an overhand in a long piece of bcy 23, i first wax the area of the first overhand near the end, put that tag end in a vice, wrap a screw driver from the part emerging and pull....this takes any stretch out of the already low stretch spectra BCY 23 and also makes that overhand very small....i trim the short tag coming off that knot then fluff and melt down

i know the lengths i need, so i take that out of the vice, measure from the knot and mark with a sharpie (i can't remember my personal lengthy off hand....in notes...everyone is different here somewhat)

i then tie the d loop knot and tie my last overhand while it is on the bow....i tied it so that the knot will touch my black sharpie mark....i use the wax and just hand pull it the best I can while it is on the bow (just the overhand)

then do whatever you do next to set you d loop to your peep, make sure it is tight, etc

anymore, my peeps are so well behaved that i don't have to have a ridiculously tight d loop (that causes serving separation) in order to correct for a bad peep twist

I usually just put my release on the d loop, line everything up, and just pull with the release while holding the string

shooting sets it in and I make some micro adjustments.....i like my d loop to be moveable by hand if things start to micro change

some folks will think those overhands are huge....but in person they are only slightly larger than a bcy 24 melted ball (if you are good at melting them)....i've also heard them called heavy....the extra material in those knots is less than a grain

upsides are once you do this once, it is very easy to get an exact length....you don't need to put flame anywhere near your string....and these are never coming off or breaking

What do you mean that your peeps are well behaved regarding twist? I just had to add a half twist on my string to get it straight and it still is misbehaving but I have not tested your d loop tying approach yet but will soon as holidays are over. I like the thought that you just use your release to pull on the loop to tighten it to the string I hate cranking on the loop against the serving especially when I have a slight twist in my peep and its just easier to align the loop to the twist but the loop is too tight to move.


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[raisins]

What do you mean that your peeps are well behaved regarding twist? I just had to add a half twist on my string to get it straight and it still is misbehaving but I have not tested your d loop tying approach yet but will soon as holidays are over. I like the thought that you just use your release to pull on the loop to tighten it to the string I hate cranking on the loop against the serving especially when I have a slight twist in my peep and its just easier to align the loop to the twist but the loop is too tight to move.


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I've always been fortunate to get the peep pointing about perfect at brace and go about perfectly straight back during the draw. I don't think I've had to let down and not shoot from my peep being twisted one time in the last 10 years. If I get my peep right like this, then the d loop doesn't have to do much. I might use the d loop to correct a very small deviation in the peep (never more than 10 degrees and usually 5 degrees or less).

I'm going to go with a Bowmar peep tuner next string change. But the only secrets I have are using a good aftermarket string, knowing that even that string will take some shots to settle, twisting the top or bottom of the string (I still don't get why the end matters but it does), and not serving above and below my peep like most folks seem to like to do. I use a similar technique similar to this but with more overhand knots on the legs formed by the string splitting.

I use the clove hitch variant. With multiple overhands, this holds the peep better than the standard method. Several companies/well known folks use some variation on this (Gillingham, Bowmar, Hamskea, Bee). Also, if the traditional serving method compresses the triangle above and below the peep, then this can cause twist as the load on the string changes during the draw and thus the forces acting on that triangle area. The linked method is unaffected by that.

One tip is before tying in the peep, I'll wrap it and the string in several wraps of masking tape and shoot to let things start to settle. The tape is there to keep the peep from shooting out of the string. If I shoot enough, then I won't have to tie in the peep and then have the string settle after 50 shots and then have to re-do my work and untie the thing. 6 or so good wraps of white masking tape and it isn't coming loose at the shot.

Here's the peep tuner. Some folks think this is cheating, but it works and is easier than twisting strings.

Peep Tuner

FIX PEEP ROTATION Keeps your peep perfectly square Easy install and adjustability Works on any bow string

bowmararchery.com

 

[USSHornet]

I've always been fortunate to get the peep pointing about perfect at brace and go about perfectly straight back during the draw. I don't think I've had to let down and not shoot from my peep being twisted one time in the last 10 years. If I get my peep right like this, then the d loop doesn't have to do much. I might use the d loop to correct a very small deviation in the peep (never more than 10 degrees and usually 5 degrees or less).

I'm going to go with a Bowmar peep tuner next string change. But the only secrets I have are using a good aftermarket string, knowing that even that string will take some shots to settle, twisting the top or bottom of the string (I still don't get why the end matters but it does), and not serving above and below my peep like most folks seem to like to do. I use a similar technique similar to this but with more overhand knots on the legs formed by the string splitting.

I use the clove hitch variant. With multiple overhands, this holds the peep better than the standard method. Several companies/well known folks use some variation on this (Gillingham, Bowmar, Hamskea, Bee). Also, if the traditional serving method compresses the triangle above and below the peep, then this can cause twist as the load on the string changes during the draw and thus the forces acting on that triangle area. The linked method is unaffected by that.

One tip is before tying in the peep, I'll wrap it and the string in several wraps of masking tape and shoot to let things start to settle. The tape is there to keep the peep from shooting out of the string. If I shoot enough, then I won't have to tie in the peep and then have the string settle after 50 shots and then have to re-do my work and untie the thing. 6 or so good wraps of white masking tape and it isn't coming loose at the shot.

Here's the peep tuner. Some folks think this is cheating, but it works and is easier than twisting strings.

Peep Tuner

FIX PEEP ROTATION Keeps your peep perfectly square Easy install and adjustability Works on any bow string

bowmararchery.com

I use GAS aftermarket but …I installed and sighted in on my hoyt defiant with yokes. Then the other day got to the woods drew my bow to check and the peep alignment was way off. Got home untied the peep aligned it to my normal 5 7/8 and it was low…I had to move it to 6 1/8 to get it right which I still don’t understand I assume my string stretched after sighting it in …I am at a loss but I will definitely use the tape over peep trick I just put it in naked and wear glasses in case it pops out (not good) …i was using podium archery peep tying technique because its easy to remove without cutting near the string…but I damn sure would like a way to keep that peep aligned I am too OCD to let it rotate 1 degree….lol


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