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- Jan 17, 2019
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I described on someone else's thread a while back how I was going to try an amsteel daisy chain method with treehopper steps. I developed that and used it for the past 20 or so hunts and this will be my method until maybe I switch to Tethrd One sticks with aiders. Any critiques or suggestions are welcomed. Maybe this will help someone else.
Here is the step with the daisy chain through the slot.
That is an 8 foot long amsteel daisy chain made out of 7/64" amsteel using double brummel locks. The distance between locks is around 4". The end loop is inserted into the step slot and overhand knots tied on each side so that the step cannot slide freely on the chain. It is important to tie the knots as closely to the step as possible because this allows wraps to lock (more later). The knots will "move" away from the step some as it tightens after use.
The very last loop (never used to hold weight) is 3 brummel locks that are formed together after melting a bit, then covered in a little super glue (I don't want them ever to come undone), and then elastic paracord loop tied through it (see below).
For transport and easy deployment while climbing, I wrap the daisy chain around my hand and then attach to the side of step with 2 wraps of the elastic paracord (see below). At first, I was wrapping the chain round the steps, but this is harder to deploy. The current method just falls free and can be passed around the tree, hand to hand, while still mostly coiled.
One of these steps is right under 5 ounces and with the chain is under 6 ounces (see below).
I climb with 12 of these. I make up 6 so that the loop is on the right side of the step and 6 so that the loop is to the left.
They are stored in separate sacks that hang from my saddle. The ones with the loop to the right go in my left hand sack. They are placed on the left hand side while climbing (I like at around 7 o'clock). The loop being to the right means you are working more in front of you. The ones with loops to the left are on my right hand side.
I carry these two sacks inside my backpack. I am using Sea to Summit mesh sacks which are very light and durable. Here are 6 steps. I do not wind up my daisy chains while descending (I do that at home before a hunt), so the sack below is more pillowy than usual because all the chains are loose right now.
6 step plus sack and plastic clip (to attach to saddle) weigh around 2.3 lbs. I space these 24 inches apart. So, my 12 steps can get me 24 feet up a tree and weighs under 5 pounds. I put each step to the top of my knee pad, which is around 24 inches. I step up after each step is attached to avoid staying in one position for several steps, to use my knee as a height guide, and so that I can climb with my tether and linemans both on and never have much slack.
Step attachment starts by putting the chain around the tree and pulling part of it through your loop. This is faster than threading webbing through a buckle because you can put any part through the loop and then just pull it all through. I am showing just a smidge of chain through the loop, but you must start there and get the whole chain through the first loop.
After you have pulled the entire chain through the loop, double the daisy chain back onto itself and find another loop around 9 o'clock on the tree (or 3 o'clock if attaching a step to your left) and pull the chain through it. Again, I'm just showing the start here, you must get the whole chain through there.
You now have a sort of trucker's hitch with 3x mechanical advantage. Make sure all your ropes are where you'd like, together vertically, and horizontal on the tree and now grab you tag end and use your weight and muscle to tighten that thing. While tightening, flip the step up 90 degree so that the top of the step slot is against the tree and where you step is pointing in the sky. It gets very tight and the amsteel does not stretch.
While holding this tension, bring the daisy chain back toward the step and under it, tuck the chain between the step and the knot that keeps the step from shifting left to right.
To be continued below.......ran out of attachment space.
Here is the step with the daisy chain through the slot.
That is an 8 foot long amsteel daisy chain made out of 7/64" amsteel using double brummel locks. The distance between locks is around 4". The end loop is inserted into the step slot and overhand knots tied on each side so that the step cannot slide freely on the chain. It is important to tie the knots as closely to the step as possible because this allows wraps to lock (more later). The knots will "move" away from the step some as it tightens after use.
The very last loop (never used to hold weight) is 3 brummel locks that are formed together after melting a bit, then covered in a little super glue (I don't want them ever to come undone), and then elastic paracord loop tied through it (see below).
For transport and easy deployment while climbing, I wrap the daisy chain around my hand and then attach to the side of step with 2 wraps of the elastic paracord (see below). At first, I was wrapping the chain round the steps, but this is harder to deploy. The current method just falls free and can be passed around the tree, hand to hand, while still mostly coiled.
One of these steps is right under 5 ounces and with the chain is under 6 ounces (see below).
I climb with 12 of these. I make up 6 so that the loop is on the right side of the step and 6 so that the loop is to the left.
They are stored in separate sacks that hang from my saddle. The ones with the loop to the right go in my left hand sack. They are placed on the left hand side while climbing (I like at around 7 o'clock). The loop being to the right means you are working more in front of you. The ones with loops to the left are on my right hand side.
I carry these two sacks inside my backpack. I am using Sea to Summit mesh sacks which are very light and durable. Here are 6 steps. I do not wind up my daisy chains while descending (I do that at home before a hunt), so the sack below is more pillowy than usual because all the chains are loose right now.
6 step plus sack and plastic clip (to attach to saddle) weigh around 2.3 lbs. I space these 24 inches apart. So, my 12 steps can get me 24 feet up a tree and weighs under 5 pounds. I put each step to the top of my knee pad, which is around 24 inches. I step up after each step is attached to avoid staying in one position for several steps, to use my knee as a height guide, and so that I can climb with my tether and linemans both on and never have much slack.
Step attachment starts by putting the chain around the tree and pulling part of it through your loop. This is faster than threading webbing through a buckle because you can put any part through the loop and then just pull it all through. I am showing just a smidge of chain through the loop, but you must start there and get the whole chain through the first loop.
After you have pulled the entire chain through the loop, double the daisy chain back onto itself and find another loop around 9 o'clock on the tree (or 3 o'clock if attaching a step to your left) and pull the chain through it. Again, I'm just showing the start here, you must get the whole chain through there.
You now have a sort of trucker's hitch with 3x mechanical advantage. Make sure all your ropes are where you'd like, together vertically, and horizontal on the tree and now grab you tag end and use your weight and muscle to tighten that thing. While tightening, flip the step up 90 degree so that the top of the step slot is against the tree and where you step is pointing in the sky. It gets very tight and the amsteel does not stretch.
While holding this tension, bring the daisy chain back toward the step and under it, tuck the chain between the step and the knot that keeps the step from shifting left to right.
To be continued below.......ran out of attachment space.
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