DIY strap on steps

[Erniepower]

Re: RE: Re: DIY strap on steps

Are the holes on the top and bottom the same distance from the edge? i.e. can you flip the top steps over and they still lock ok? Then you could at least use the top and bottom sections to make two steps without drilling new holes.

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Are you referring to the rop and bottom of the entire stick?

Yes

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[Erniepower]

Re: RE: Re: DIY strap on steps

Are the holes on the top and bottom the same distance from the edge? i.e. can you flip the top steps over and they still lock ok? Then you could at least use the top and bottom sections to make two steps without drilling new holes.

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Are you referring to the rop and bottom of the entire stick?

I think with some careful planning, I can get 6 steps from one stick. I really want to try this but would rather do my own slots. Then I don't have to worry about missing the existing slots when drilling the holes


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[redsquirrel]

Red, what are the approximate dimensions of the main bar (the long section) before you cut it?

1 3/4" x 3/4"

 

[redsquirrel]

Re: RE: Re: DIY strap on steps

I might, but if you're looking at this project you would be better off buying the helium sticks because the field and stream ones dont have slots for a strap.

Not sure if I am going to tackle trying to mill slots. For 1" it might not be too bad to drill some holes and connect with a file, but it definitely wouldn't be fast.

Also red, next time you have three steps from the ladder (not your whole assembly) unattached to anything, stack them on top of each other. Now keeping the middle two aligned, rotate out the third one. I think you could line up existing screw holes and use the middle step as a step, with the two outer ones used as a base. It would require more hardware but less drilling/milling. Sorry if this thought isn't clear, I don't have a pic right now. Will mess around more later maybe and snap a pic of what I am trying to say.

Do you mean to use just 3 step portions to create an entire step?

Exactly! On the road now but I will take a pic later.

Ok I looked at what you were talking about. It will not work because the step portion you are standing on needs the metal behind it to keep it from going down past 90 degrees. You would have to put another bolt in below that step to keep it from going (this would be similar to how the lone wolf stick design works).

 

[redsquirrel]

Re: RE: Re: DIY strap on steps

Are the holes on the top and bottom the same distance from the edge? i.e. can you flip the top steps over and they still lock ok? Then you could at least use the top and bottom sections to make two steps without drilling new holes.

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Are you referring to the rop and bottom of the entire stick?

I think with some careful planning, I can get 6 steps from one stick. I really want to try this but would rather do my own slots. Then I don't have to worry about missing the existing slots when drilling the holes


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I can get 6 steps out of a stick as is, but yeah I have to work around the slots.

If you are going to do your own slots, why don't you just buy raw aluminum channel instead of cutting up a stick?
http://www.metalsdepot.com/products/alu ... 20&aident=

 

[Erniepower]

Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: DIY strap on steps

Are you referring to the rop and bottom of the entire stick?

I think with some careful planning, I can get 6 steps from one stick. I really want to try this but would rather do my own slots. Then I don't have to worry about missing the existing slots when drilling the holes


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I can get 6 steps out of a stick as is, but yeah I have to work around the slots.

If you are going to do your own slots, why don't you just buy raw aluminum channel instead of cutting up a stick?
http://www.metalsdepot.com/products/alu ... mp;aident=

Well for starters, I would still have to find the step portion. But also, I don't know if I can find an "H" channel to work with. I really like the idea of having the channel going toward the tree as well as the channel that holds the step. I really don't want to weld two channels together. I figure if I can find a used stick or even a set of them, it will be easier and probably cheaper than sourcing the materials separately

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[redsquirrel]

Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: DIY strap on steps

Well for starters, I would still have to find the step portion. But also, I don't know if I can find an "H" channel to work with. I really like the idea of having the channel going toward the tree as well as the channel that holds the step. I really don't want to weld two channels together. I figure if I can find a used stick or even a set of them, it will be easier and probably cheaper than sourcing the materials separately

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Ok I got you. Just wanted to throw that option out there because milling the slots is definitely the hardest part of this project and you have that covered

 

[Erniepower]

Actually right now the hardest part is finding someone to sell me the old field and stream cyclone sticks. It looks like ****'s no longer carries them.




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[boone0]

I am sure we can make a deal, I'll talk to you soon Ernie

 

[kenn1320]

Actually right now the hardest part is finding someone to sell me the old field and stream cyclone sticks. It looks like ****'s no longer carries them.




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Yeah I would guess Helium bought out the company that was making them for F&S.

 

[Erniepower]

Exactly and the slots are to reduce weight

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[Erniepower]

I am sure we can make a deal, I'll talk to you soon Ernie

Sounds good.

 

[Erniepower]

Just playing around in the shop today. Here is a way to use folding sky hooks or bear claws on a strap. I need to replace the hardware with grade 8 and test it outsize. Looking at the ameristep option, the part where the strap crosses it is 2" wide to prevent the step from rolling side to side. I may have to replace the toothed bottom with a wider piece of channel. Then I may also have to make it longer to prevent it from rolling top to bottom. It was fairly easy and I wonder if the teeth are even necessary. If not, a guy could do this mod in his garage with just a saw and a drill.

These steps weigh more than the ameristep, 5.5 oz vs 3.2 oz, but weight wasn't the goal here. Being able to fold up the steps was more important so they will fit in a pouch easier for the hike in.

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[redsquirrel]

Just playing around in the shop today. Here is a way to use folding sky hooks or bear claws on a strap. I need to replace the hardware with grade 8 and test it outsize. Looking at the ameristep option, the part where the strap crosses it is 2" wide to prevent the step from rolling side to side. I may have to replace the toothed bottom with a wider piece of channel. Then I may also have to make it longer to prevent it from rolling top to bottom. It was fairly easy and I wonder if the teeth are even necessary. If not, a guy could do this mod in his garage with just a saw and a drill.

These steps weigh more than the ameristep, 5.5 oz vs 3.2 oz, but weight wasn't the goal here. Being able to fold up the steps was more important so they will fit in a pouch easier for the hike in.

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Ernie, could you post a pic of how you put the bolt in to secure the bottom portion? Like a head on pic? This is a great idea. I don't think the toothed portion is necessary and you could save weight with a thinner piece of aluminum. Also with a longer shim piece from the bottom you could narrow that slot down for 1" webbing.

 

[Erniepower]

Sure, the bolt that is currently in there is too long, but you get the idea. I purposely made the gap big enough to accept a 2" strap, but I figure I can test both sizes.

There are a few other little details for the build that I don't know if they are necessary. For example I tapped the tooth portion so the nut works like a jam nut. I think the shims can be skinnier. There is too much play there. But I just used some 1" bar stick I had laying around. The lower screw required me to chamfer the hole to let the flat head screw bottom out.

Note, in order to put this screw in, you need to grind out the rivet holding the step in place, but it can be replaced by a 1/4-20 screw. I used a belt sander to remove the rolled end of the rivet.

The flat head screw is a 1/4-20 and the bolt is a 5/16-18. I will figure out the lengths when I get to the hardware store this weekend.

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[Erniepower]

I think the flat head and the large bolt could use 3/4" the bolt for the step may have to be longer and cut down in order to ensure there are no threads cutting into the aluminum

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[kenn1320]

slick idea. They dont make counter sink bolts in grade 8 that im aware of, but I dont spend much time at the hardware store. :lol: You likely dont need that one to be very strong, since its under compression in use. Also probably not a good idea to double tension the top bolt, just clearance the hole slightly and use the nut. Get a washer under the head of the top bolt to "load" it evenly. Your putting a lot of force on a tiny bolt, is it possible to fit a 3/8" bolt without opening up the step hole? Guess Im not sure what size those typically used?

 

[redsquirrel]

Good stuff. Thanks Ernie.

 

[Erniepower]

Yep just got back from the hardware store. Couldn't find a counter sink in 8 so I grabbed stainless. The original is a metric lag screw, Not sure what size, but I'll measure. I couldn't fit a 3/8" screw when I tried.

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[kenn1320]

Yep just got back from the hardware store. Couldn't find a counter sink in 8 so I grabbed stainless. The original is a metric lag screw, Not sure what size, but I'll measure. I couldn't fit a 3/8" screw when I tried.

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Well they dont make a 9mm and 5/16" is about the same as an 8mm. 3/8" = 9.5mm so 10mm wont work either. Looks like 5/16" it is, just keep your eye on it. Use a loc nut and if you find they need tightening after some use, they are likely stretching or the step is denting. Dont over tighten them. :shock: