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DIY sub-1lb climbing stick adventure!

Why not keep your original design, but take 1/4 of the stand off length off and just angle out the steps. Then drill holes to remove weight from tube.
 
@Dgruis91 - I like the idea of angling the steps outward. That is how my Leverage 5252 steps are made, but they have individual folding steps. The steps I am making are made from 6061 aluminum and I don't have a way of bending them to be able to still use a solid, one piece step. If I make the steps be welding right and left halves, then I lose the strength of the web of material between the two steps and must then rely on the strength of the weld and the tube to support the step loading. I'll keep this in mind though, see if I can figure out a way to make it work. Thanks for the feedback.
 
So after V1.0 failed, and before adding the gussets to the V1.1 design, I went in a totally out-of-the-box direction with my V2.0 idea. Stackability is a huge factor in my stick tinkering adventure. I wanted to come up with something that uses folding feet so the entire stick collapses to just 1" tall. Then when stacked the four sticks stack in just 4" x the 19" length of the sticks. So (while a nearly complete failure) I present V2.0:
V2.o Parts.jpg
V2.0 Full.jpg
V2.0 top.jpg
V2.0 Stack.jpg
V2.0 weight.jpg

I could not get the weight below 1lb...
 
You were onto something with the first version. Not digging the second to be honest. Keep at it, I love the creativity!
 
Oh, but what did you mean by 'nearly complete failure'?

Umm...........this:

V2.0 bent lower.jpg
v2.0 bent upper.jpg

Fails:
  • It held my weight for like a nanosecond. The first light bounce bent the step. I only weigh 180lbs.
  • I used 6061 aluminum material properties in my FEA simulation software, but made them from 6063 (all I had avail, strength is about 60% that of 6061).
  • I assumed the welds would be strong. Nope, my welds suck. Didn't get good penetration and the welds broke.
  • It took forever to cut and weld - like 5 hours.
  • The folding feet are clanky and make noise.
  • The foot design requires a tree at least 14" diameter or the steps were right up against the trunk (no to room)
  • My pride:rolleyes:
Next prototype will be V1.1 with the braced feet. I have the steps cut (used the mill at work so the are a *little* bit nicer but still rough). After that look for a carbon stick V1.2C design!
 
Yeah, V2 is a no go in my book. You are also definitely limiting yourself to larger trees. with that design. V1 with the gussets has my vote!!
 
Not to derail, but the only thing I've seen that looks similar is those plastic sticks that posted a few months back. I can't find them now. Anybody remember if those ever went anywhere?

I thought the same thing. You’re thinking of Stacked Outdoors.


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If you were able to attach stand offs to the sides of 1” tubing on V1.0 and allow folding only downward not upward they could be stacked as tight as the wall thickness of the material used to connect the two stand off legs. This cross/connector piece would also have to hold the downward load of the climber. Unless positioned to align directly with the back of steps therefore using the step itself as the stop bracket the lower standoff would obviously fold out increasin overall length of stacked sticks. The stand off would fold the same direction with a profile angling away from stick so as not to snag and hold brush when being carried. You would need to run these loads through a software program to figure loads but either method would still allow for a low profile stack of sticks.
 
Your definitely headed in the right direction. Angle the tops of the steps before you go too far down the road, cant tell you how much nicer that is than the straight steps found on LW or others. I like the gusset option you came up with, but fear thats going to bend the step with it on the next bounce test. A cross section change might be the better option. As for stacking looks cool, but wont there be the rope between them screwing up the perfectly flat stacked cad concept?
 
@Sandor27 v2 looks to bulky even with folding stand offs. Too much square tubing. In my opinion I would build v1.2 with the one piece bent steps. And if you have a way to bend the steps I would bend the stand offs also. Cut a little bigger channel in tube. Weld all that together. And instead of 1/4 amsteel id use 3/16 amsteel. I use that on my wild edge steps. Works perfect no frays, just double rope through knot. Then to top it off drill holes in the tube and chamfer then like the beast steps. Boom.
 
OK, so this is my first thread here on SH. Been lurking for a while. I watched the "Lightest Double Sticks to Date 1.2lbs" thread with interest. Not one to resist an engineering challenge, I wanted to see what I could come up with. Criteria: Sub 1lb, 9" wide step, 17" between steps, tight nesting.

I am currently using Leverage 5252 two step sticks and I like them a lot, but they weigh in at 1.68lbs with the rope mod. We can do better!

My first (rather rushed and poorly executed) attempt was serviceable, but bent under a bouncing load. My test was to step up onto it, and then bounce on the steps progressively harder until something gave. I looked at the design and ran a simulation model before building. But I only looked at loads in the vertical direction. Turns out the feet were subject to a bending moment and failed (bent). The step did not bend in the vertical direction. Total weight on the stick with 1/4" Amsteel rope was 1.11lbs (1lb 1 3/4 oz). Also I need to take welding lessons from NCFarmweld! I bought a TIG welder a few months back and these are my first ever aluminum welds.

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So now with the prototype testing complete.... gotta figure out how to solve the bending issue... I will call this first attempt V1.0
How exactly are u attaching them to tree?hard to tell from pic

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"How exactly are u attaching them to tree?"

I have a Brummel lock eye splice through the width of the stick. There are two holes drilled through the stick crosswise left to right. The tag end of the Amsteel rope goes around the tree, through the splice (that hangs out to the right of the stick through the two drilled holes), around the front of the stick, wraps around the fixed end of the eye splice, back across the front of the stick, and then back through the eye splice. Pull the eye splice tight and it locks the tag end. Seemed to work without slipping but I don't have much time on them (just enough time to break the prototype sticks!). I used this approach to allow the sticks to lay flat nested when stacked. A versa-button would not allow that, nor would running a loop around the main tube. These zoomed pics should help.

Knot1.jpg
Knot2.jpg
 
So looks like you push a loop thru the hole, run rope around tree, thru the loop, across stick around loop line, back across stick and thru loop again? Clever, just seems like could be a pain 20ft up.
 
There are two holes and the eye splice is permanently spliced through the holes. I have not climbed with this rope mod yet. My normal sticks have a versa button style rope mod.
 
There are two holes and the eye splice is permanently spliced through the holes. I have not climbed with this rope mod yet. My normal sticks have a versa button style rope mod.
Have you checked out the "Ditched the Button" thread? Dont know how to put the link on here or else I would. You could still have your flat packablity, but would probably have to carry in your rope/strap seperate from the sticks.

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Honestly I'm good with 17" to reduce length and to make the stepping easier. I'm 6ft with long legs but once I start adding bib coveralls for cold weather further steps are a bigger pain. I have LW sticks cut down but the step space stayed the same. I don't think 22 inches is something I would enjoy late season. I have less time in this than many but I would rather use a mobile aider or worst do the "one stick" method with the top step.
 
I have to learn how to weld aluminum with a mig or stick welder. Doing a great job on those experimental sticks


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I have to learn how to weld aluminum with a mig or stick welder. Doing a great job on those experimental sticks


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Mig requires an expensive gun/lead but would probably be fairly easy to learn if you are good at mig. Tig is how most guys weld aluminum and that's not so easy. Lol
 
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