Easiest to sharpen single bevel

[LeTuB]

I use MDF discs on my bench grinder, one with silicon carbide 220 grit the other just with polishing paste. I rounded the edge of the disc to cope with my concave centaur BH.
Razor sharp in a minute

 

[NMSbowhunter]

I have settled on 3 mill files clamped to a table with a KME jig to set the initial bevel on the Grizzly broadheads. It works great. File the flat side just enough to get the paint off and set a clean edge. Then on the bevel side go 80 grit sandpaper to 2000 in progressive stages. It will make a perfect edge and be hair popping sharp,

 

[TheBlindCat]

I have settled on 3 mill files clamped to a table with a KME jig to set the initial bevel on the Grizzly broadheads. It works great. File the flat side just enough to get the paint off and set a clean edge. Then on the bevel side go 80 grit sandpaper to 2000 in progressive stages. It will make a perfect edge and be hair popping sharp,

The mill file table to set the end seems genius, the biggest time sink I’ve had is that initial step.

 

[NMSbowhunter]

The mill file table to set the end seems genius, the biggest time sink I’ve had is that initial step.

Thanks. The files only cut in one direction. Go slow at first and let the files do the cutting. Don't put much pressure downward. Once the bevel is set sharpening is a breeze. Use a sharpie to make sure you are getting even material removal. It is a real time saver for sure and makes it very uniform.

 

[jgleas114]

I had little to no experience sharpening broadheads. I bought the stay sharp guide for Grizzly Stik Massai and I was able to get them scary sharp.

 

[Micneador]

Stay sharp has a video on sharpening/making a secondary bevel. Makes sharpening my cutthroat heads a TON easier and will lengthen the life of your heads before you wear through the blade.

 

[BTaylor]

Anybody make their own jig/guide? If so, how?

Not for a single bevel. Designed one for three blades to change the bevel from 30 to more like 25 degrees. Needs a little modification because I am a hack at the technical aspects of designing. A member here that I wont name so yall dont blow him up, 3d printed it. Worked great for proof of concept and with a minor adjustment will get a 3 blade face shaving sharp. Havent messed with the adjustments yet because I am still trying to get the head done and that has been a real goat ropin.

 

[Iron_llama]

Anybody make their own jig/guide? If so, how?

I was going to, but I found the Stay Sharp guides compelling. Nicer than whatever I was going to make, and the price was worth however much time I would have invested in a lesser jig.

To answer @bigmike23 ... it's tough to beat the original Grizzly. Carbon steel, straight edge, nothing exotic, takes and holds an edge just like any decent pocket or hunting knife you've ever used. The tanto tip is a bit of a PITA to sharpen but it's small and goes quickly, just move slowly and carefully. I wrap my blades with blue tape once they're sharp. Before I hunt with them I'll touch them up with a strop and put a couple of drops of mineral oil or smear some petroleum jelly on them to prevent rust.

 

[GCTerpfan]

Not for a single bevel. Designed one for three blades to change the bevel from 30 to more like 25 degrees. Needs a little modification because I am a hack at the technical aspects of designing. A member here that I wont name so yall dont blow him up, 3d printed it. Worked great for proof of concept and with a minor adjustment will get a 3 blade face shaving sharp. Havent messed with the adjustments yet because I am still trying to get the head done and that has been a real goat ropin.

Would ya hurry up with that?! You convince me to use 3 blade VPA's this September then tell me you have a jig that's not ready?

 

[BTaylor]

Would ya hurry up with that?! You convince me to use 3 blade VPA's this September then tell me you have a jig that's not ready?

You can get those VPA's plenty sharp with a several methods. I prefer a piece of round stock with different grit wet/dry paper and leather to finish. The jig was being done to go with my broadhead project that moving like a constipated sloth since the folks I started with crawfished on finishing.

 

[GCTerpfan]

You can get those VPA's plenty sharp with a several methods. I prefer a piece of round stock with different grit wet/dry paper and leather to finish. The jig was being done to go with my broadhead project that moving like a constipated sloth since the folks I started with crawfished on finishing.

Yeah, mostly just giving you a hard time. I can get them plenty sharp with diamond plates, a steel and leather strop but, I know I could get them a little sharper with a more acute angle.

 

[BTaylor]

Yeah, mostly just giving you a hard time. I can get them plenty sharp with diamond plates, a steel and leather strop but, I know I could get them a little sharper with a more acute angle.

They get real nice when you change the angle a little. Do you need the steel after the diamond plates or just a quick strop?

 

[GCTerpfan]

I don’t always use the steel but sometimes I skip the finest diamond plates and jump to the steel and then strop.

But honestly, if I really want to get them scary sharp I just give them to my dad. He’s a wizard at sharpening anything. That’s why his forearms are always bald.

 

[bigmike23]

Well I went with the Tuffhead 200gr single bevel. No bloodrings. Looking forward to sharpening and shooting them. I'm paranoid about penetration and that's all I'm looking for now. Last year, I hit what would of been the biggest buck Ive killed yet with a Swat mechanical head. It was a 570 grain arrow at around 380-390ish fps out of my Vapor 470 Xbow. And it still stopped dead in his far shoulder. He jumped the string, and I miss judged the distance, so it ultimately was my fault I made a poor shot. I'm not sure using a single bevel would have recovered the deer. But if 190 lbs ke couldn't push a mechanical through, I'm absolutely done with them

 

[TheBlindCat]

I use MDF discs on my bench grinder, one with silicon carbide 220 grit the other just with polishing paste. I rounded the edge of the disc to cope with my concave centaur BH.
Razor sharp in a minute View attachment 85996

Watched some videos, ended up ordering a set and picked up a Harbor Freight 6” buffer. Just got it today. Wow, wow, wow. Practiced in my two dull Moraknivs I’ve been using for general shop and yard tasks. Half a dozen passes each way on the grit wheel and about the same on the polish wheel and they were both shaving sharp. I took two Grizzley single bevels and had them shaving sharp each in about a minute. I need to practice more to get a consistent bevel, but this is quick.

Edit: I bought these discs, sold a bunch of places.

Razor Sharp Edgemaking System

This system is specifically designed for the "hard to sharpen concave broadhead" and all other single bladed heads of any profile. Also great for knives with or without serrated edges, scissors, and miscellaneous tools and blades. Not for use with multi-bladed broad heads. This kit contains...

centaurarchery.com

 

[Allegheny Tom]

I use a KME sharpening guide, sand paper, and float glass. I will say setting the bevel on the Grizzly, Tough Heads, and Cutthoats kind of sucks. As for those the initial bevel is shallower than the KME will do.

I bought the spacer so hopefully this will make the initial sharpen easier.

New- High Angle Spacer Block w/ long mounting screw

www.kmesharp.com

I'm using the KME jig that's basically a higher tech Lansky meaning it's not used with conventional stones. Each KME stone is held in a retainer and a stick. This system makes bevel angles almost limitless.
I also use a sharpie to determine the bevel setting but it's important to know that the exact placement of the broadhead or knife in the vice does have an effect on the bevel angle. 20% is not always a true 20%...it depends on how "deep" you clamp the head. That's why sharpies are so useful.

As to the OPs question, I shoot Grizzlystik Samurai 200s. The 200 is easier to sharpen than the 150s because of ferrule clearance. If you keep the original bevel angle on the 150s, the tip of the ferrule makes contact with the stone.
Whatever brand you choose, picking one with a low ferrule will be less problematic to sharpen.

 

[Iron_llama]

I use MDF discs on my bench grinder, one with silicon carbide 220 grit the other just with polishing paste. I rounded the edge of the disc to cope with my concave centaur BH.
Razor sharp in a minute View attachment 85996

Did you make those discs? Do you freehand or use a jig? I use a white fine-grit stone on my grinder, with a Oneway jig, for my HSS lathe tools. I could probably come up with something similar for knives and broadheads.

 

[hokiehunter373]

Sho nuff

He's refined his method a touch but doing the same basic thing 10 years later too..

 

[bigmike23]

Man this sucks. Getting the tape on the rollers is a royal pain. You need surgeon hands to apply it properly. I'd last 2 minutes before my first patient croaked from my hand work. Setting the bevel correct is extremely tedious too. Seems I'm always off by a couple thousands 1 way or another

 

[TheBlindCat]

Did you make those discs? Do you freehand or use a jig? I use a white fine-grit stone on my grinder, with a Oneway jig, for my HSS lathe tools. I could probably come up with something similar for knives and broadheads.

Razor Sharp Edgemaking System

This system is specifically designed for the "hard to sharpen concave broadhead" and all other single bladed heads of any profile. Also great for knives with or without serrated edges, scissors, and miscellaneous tools and blades. Not for use with multi-bladed broad heads. This kit contains...

centaurarchery.com

There is this kit, sold on Amazon and a bunch of other places too.