320thmp said:Once you prep a tree is it easy to find the holes? I considered buying rubber hose and cutting it down so an inch sticks out of the hole in the tree and leaving them in place of the bolts.
320thmp said:Once you prep a tree is it easy to find the holes? I considered buying rubber hose and cutting it down so an inch sticks out of the hole in the tree and leaving them in place of the bolts.
Once you prep a tree is it easy to find the holes? I considered buying rubber hose and cutting it down so an inch sticks out of the hole in the tree and leaving them in place of the bolts.
I'm going to try the block of wood with a hole drilled in it method. Put the bolt through the wood block and then into the tree. Offers more surface area for the foot to rest on.JUST BOUGHT THIS DRILL AND BOLTS. GOT 35 OF THEM ON EBAY FOR $30 ! GRADE 8, 6 INCH. WILL BE USING THEM MORE FOR NEXT SEASON. I WONDER HOW THEY WILL WORK AS A PLATFORM ? (40 TREES ?)
BOWHUNTERCHUCK
I wonder if spray paint in the holes after cutting them in would help seal up the vulnerable cambium area. It would be the area just under the bark and wouldn't have to go into the whole 2.25 inches of the hole. Something to keep the bugs away.Sorry I missed this.
I think this is my 5th year using the bolts and because I don't want to kill trees either, I have kept somewhat of an eye on it. So far I haven't seen the bolts kill any trees.
Of course any time you open up a tree down to the cambium (or something like that) layer....It's a little more vulnerable to disease and bugs. Tree steps, climbing spikes, some stands, etc all do the same thing. They penetrate the bark and leave the tree somewhat vulnerable. Even a Maple Sugar Tap could kill a tree the same way. Hell just nailing a sign on a tree can kill it.
Back about 15 years or so I did end up having a black cherry die after I put tree steps in. Took them out after a year and the tree was fine...Next year I came back to it and it was already dying/dead. BUT, I've used other black cherries for a few years in a row with no problems. They seal up every year just like the rest. Just unfortunate for that tree.
Sometimes, especially if I think I'll never use that tree again, I will jam sticks into the holes when I'm done for the year, filling the entire small hole so that the tree is at least somewhat protected. I have no idea if it helps or if it possibly is even bad for the tree. I just assume that it helps because you're plugging that vulnerable spot. Most of the time I don't do that though.
Red, I had seen you talking about that stuff. My friend also makes stuff with molds and pours plastics (fishing lures mostly). I'll probably exhaust other methods first, but I do like that I can completely build from the ground up with that stuff.
Ever try a Drill Brace? Much more leverage, makes drilling easier. Larger to carry but not so much as a cordless drill. And a drill brace is quiet.Hey guys new to this sight hunting from saddle/web 3 years. I tried the hand drill for a mobile set up but it just takes to long. Does anyone use a cordless 12v drill on the go? If so is there one out there that anyone knows of that is quiet enough to use on the hunt? Any ideas would be appreciated!
They make a reflective spray in a can now, maybe with a flashlight you can find the holes easily that way.Once you prep a tree is it easy to find the holes? I considered buying rubber hose and cutting it down so an inch sticks out of the hole in the tree and leaving them in place of the bolts.
Ever try a Drill Brace? Much more leverage, makes drilling easier. Larger to carry but not so much as a cordless drill. And a drill brace is quiet.
Cool. I haven't tried a drill brace yet but every time I use the EZ Kut, I want a drill brace. lol. I'll definitely use a cordless during the off season though.I was going to try a bit and brace but then decided against it once I got used to the Easy kut. I set up in a tree at 35 ' in 20 minutes last weekend.
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That's a good idea.The predrilled holes are a lot easier to find when you drill them in as straight a line as possible. And, when needed (thick bark trees) using a limb saw to scrape the bark around the hole makes them very visible.
I've been drilling trees since 1983 and have never seen it kill a tree. In most cases after a couple of years you can't tell that a tree has been drilled.
OVER 30 years of experience for the win...The predrilled holes are a lot easier to find when you drill them in as straight a line as possible. And, when needed (thick bark trees) using a limb saw to scrape the bark around the hole makes them very visible.
I've been drilling trees since 1983 and have never seen it kill a tree. In most cases after a couple of years you can't tell that a tree has been drilled.
I nominate Warren for the next podcast interview.Nearly 30 years of experience for the win...
some have commented that they have but the drawbacks are the soft wood can lead to sloppy holes. Perhaps drilling at a steeper angle will help the longevity of the holes. The other issue is Sap. Makes a mess of your gear.anyone used bolts on pines? I have a lot of planted pines on my new lease