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First diy saddle attempt. Pic heavy.

Chimney7

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2020
Messages
276
So here goes, a few months ago I stumbled across a random illustration of a saddle hunter. I had never heard of this style of hunting and I was interested. So from there i ended up here, my first post was an introduction and explanation of my hardcore diy attitude. Not long after that I got to work.


So I want to preface the pictures with, I'm new to sewing, this is a first attempt, it seems to be ok so far, havent spent a lot of time in it. Ive got until october to fine tune and if need be, make another one with some tweaks. So I basically figured everything out with some youtube help about sewing and instruction from the wife. I also feel it's important to say that I didnt come up with the design on my own, and I'm sure some of you will recognize it, not sure how everyone feels about that, but it is what it is.

In the pictures that im in it, im using ropes I had laying around in the garage and 7/64" amsteel, I plan on replacing all of this before I leave the ground with the proper equipment. 1/4" amsteel and legit rope.

So that being said, I would love if you guys could give me some feedback. Aesthetics aside, I'm mainly concerned about safety issues. I used heavy duty upholstery thread for any stress points. On the blue loops I used a speedy stitcher and waxed thread. I would like to think i overbuilt the be-jesus out of this thing. But curious to see what all of you think. So I'm open to constructors criticism and any ideas on improvements. I threw some pictures of the accessories I made in there too just because I'm having a blast with the wife's sewing machine making gear and figured you all would appreciate it too.
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Great job on your first saddle! This is a nice job. I built one from an old army duffel too. I think if you are looking for tweaks you will find you prefer either smaller linemans loops or the tethrd phantom continuous style. The ones you made are very long compared to most. As far as safety, stitching is the biggest concern. It’s hard to tell without closeups but your tread tension looks good and it looks like you did a nice job. You are like me in that you are gluteally challenged. You may be just as comfortable in a small frame next build too.


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Looks great! I never worried to much about the strength of my seat material as most weight and the safety is in webbing and how it's joined together. My thinking tells me even if the seat totally tears out the main webbing will still hold you safely and without much movement. As long as your good there, nice job
 
Is the perimeter of your saddle made out of one continuous piece of webbing with one sewn joint?
Are your linesmans loops just short pieces sewn in or do they extend into the waisbelt a substantial amount?
 
Is the perimeter of your saddle made out of one continuous piece of webbing with one sewn joint?
Are your linesmans loops just short pieces sewn in or do they extend into the waisbelt a substantial amount?

Yes the perimeter is one continuous piece sewn together at the bottom close to the leg straps.

The linesman loops are short pieces sewn in, both ends are sewn individually and separate of each other. I sewed the linemans loops with the sewing machine first, then reinforced with the speedy stitcher/wax string.
 
Yes the perimeter is one continuous piece sewn together at the bottom close to the leg straps.

The linesman loops are short pieces sewn in, both ends are sewn individually and separate of each other. I sewed the linemans loops with the sewing machine first, then reinforced with the speedy stitcher/wax string.
I would be a little worried about the linesmans loops. In a fall, they will be required to withstand a lot of force.
Nice job with sewing. I just started getting serious about sewing webbing recently. I don't think it is just for women. It is heavy fabric construction.
 
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I would be a little worried about the linesmans loops. In a fall, they will be required to withstand a lot of force.


That is good point. Are they typically attached far into the waistband?
 
That is good point. Are they typically attached far into the waistband?
I really don't know about commercial saddles. Sailrite has a discussion of sewn webbing strength on their website. My Trophyline saddle linemans loops have 4 inches at back and 1.5 inches at front sewn into the waist with a box-x and an additional series of about 10 straight across stiches front and back. I only have V-92 thread and these straight across stitches look to be bigger thread, maybe V-138. The box-x patterns are sewn with thinner thread, looks to be about V-92.
 
I really don't know about commercial saddles. Sailrite has a discussion of sewn webbing strength on their website. My Trophyline saddle linemans loops have 4 inches at back and 1.5 inches at front sewn into the waist with a box-x and an additional series of about 10 straight across stiches front and back. I only have V-92 thread and these straight across stitches look to be bigger thread, maybe V-138. The box-x patterns are sewn with thinner thread, looks to be about V-92.
I will definitely look into the sewn webbing strength info. I have the time and or material to adjust or completely replace the loops. Thanks for your input, I appreciate it.
 
I would be a little worried about the linesmans loops. In a fall, they will be required to withstand a lot of force.
Nice job with sewing. I just started getting serious about sewing webbing recently. I don't think it is just for women. It is heavy fabric construction.
Sewing machines are power tools!
 
I'd go back and check out the DIY Kestrel Clone thread. I believe that the linemans loops are made off the same strip that is your molle loops on top. I believe there is a formula for how long you are suppose to sew over itself for loops on webbing, maybe 3x the thickness. Can someone direct him better than I can. @Squirrels ?
 
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I believe zig zag is primarily for stretchy fabrics so the stiches don't tear with the stretch. Straight stitches are fine for what we do, IMHO.
 
I believe zig zag is primarily for stretchy fabrics so the stiches don't tear with the stretch. Straight stitches are fine for what we do, IMHO.
Not what I was referring to. Edited my comment to be more clear.
 
Not what I was referring to. Edited my comment to be more clear.
Dang. Should have quoted it. Now it looks like I'm out in left field playing with daisies. :D
Anyway, here are some pictures of the linesman loop area of my Trophyline saddle. Some parts were cut off before I got it so i can't comment on those. Ignore the gray stitches in the first photo. That was me practicing. I will look at my Aero Evolution and post some pictures of stitching details on that.

 
 
One thing I got from this was that all the patterns passed or failed in different ways and they did not say which is best. Once I saw how Trophyline was stitching their saddles, I just went to straight across, back and forth. The box-x pattern is mostly for visual appeal. If Trophyline doesn't know how to build a saddle, no one does, IMHO. Getting all the stitches loaded equally is key.
 
I'd go back and check out the DIY Kestrel Clone thread. I believe that the linemans loops are made off the same strip that is your molle loops on top. I believe there is a formula for how long you are suppose to sew over itself for loops on webbing, maybe 3x the thickness. Can someone direct him better than I can. @Squirrels ?

3x the width of the strap. That from “On Rope” book regarding sewing webbing. They also state that back and forth pattern length wise is stronger than box stitching.


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My Aero Evolution has stitch patterns like this. The linesman's loops go behind two layers of webbing. The stitch patterns formed by the heavier thread all just go across the straps multiple times.



 
Thanks for all the responses and info guys. Given me a lot to think about. I may do a tweak here or there in the interest of not falling out of a tree.
 
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