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Fletching Contact

bigcat93

bigcat93

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2015
Messages
982
Location
NJ
So had a bow setup for an Onnex Clicker.

Every so often though I think I’m getting fletching contact on my rest (the top containment bar on QAD HDX). That’s my guess because arrow will usually hit 6-8” low and a fletching will get ripped off.

Anyone have any ideas off the top that I might be doing? Never had this issue with my hook style wrist released. Torquing release as it lets go maybe?

Tired of Re-fletching arrows every week.
 
I am sure there will be more knowledgeable people along to help shortly (I gave up on my drop away and went back to a whisker biscuit with great success), but you can use athletes foot spray (spray it all over the rest) to tell where the fletchings are contacting- arrow will wipe away the white spray wherever it hits. (And it wont do anything bad to your bow/you can wipe the rest off after)

May be a useful bit of info to start tracking down the issue.

Also wondering if you have a camera that can film you releasing in slow motion that may help pinpoint it as well, shoot with each release and compare? (a lot of newer phones can do slomo but I'm not sure if it's slow enough?)

Hope some of that is helpful, good luck
 
I am shooting a rx7 ultra 80lb limbs and was running into the same thing at the start of the season. I was able to take care of the issue by moving the string that attaches to the limb (limb driven rest) nearly to the very end of limb.

After countless hours of playing with everything at a shop this took care of the issue. Hope this helps some
 
Shop for me is an hour away on a good day…

I have it attached to the downward cable, but the erratic nature of it makes me think it’s something with me. Another thought I had was DL set a bit too long.

Yeah maybe I can try some powder or something that will show me what’s hitting where too.
 
Sounds like your rest timing is off.
If your rest has a cord clamp attached to your buss cable slide it up a 1/4 inch.
If the cord is pinched between the cable you will need a to go to a shop.
If you happen to be in the north eastern Ohio location give me a call, Woodsman Archery 330 964 1234.
 
You can also put foot powder, lipstick etc... on the vanes to show you where it's contacting and which vane.

Sounds like timing.

That said if you are shooting blazer or another very tall vane, knock height and cable clearance could come into play.

I know they are very popular but I stopped using blazers a very long time ago because of aforementioned issues. Just saves me the headaches on myself and families bows and also on my customers arrows.
 
jsh909 said:
You can also put foot powder, lipstick etc... on the vanes to show you where it's contacting and which vane.

Sounds like timing.

That said if you are shooting blazer or another very tall vane, knock height and cable clearance could come into play.

I know they are very popular but I stopped using blazers a very long time ago because of aforementioned issues. Just saves me the headaches on myself and families bows and also on my customers arrows.
Click to expand...
Using Aae max stealth at the moment.. what did you switch too?

Been looking at bohning x and x3 the past couple hours
 
I would definitely check the timing. However, if it’s not consistent that does sound like a form issue too. Timing then form. Good luck.
 
bigcat93 said:
Using Aae max stealth at the moment.. what did you switch too?

Been looking at bohning x and x3 the past couple hours
Click to expand...
I use Bohning Heat vanes and have been since the released them. They are the same stiff material as the X series. Any of the X series are great as well including the X bolt. Heat vanes have as much surface area as a blazer, just in a shorter profile.

I prefer Bohning Vanes for adhesion, but absolutely nothing wrong with AAE either
 
You can try using the shortest arrow blade thingie that comes with the rest so the arrow sits lower in the cage.
I would run some lipstick on the edge of the vanes to see where it hits.
I ditched my QAD and went to limb driven rests because I found out while shooting bare shafts that my rest would fail to drop sometimes. You might want to run some bare shafts through it too.
 
1. Try a bare shaft through paper first before monkeying with your rest timing. If it’s shooting a bullet hole bare shaft then tearing bad with fletches on then it’s contact. If it’s “every once in awhile” like you described your nock may need to be rotated a bit to allow for clearance.

2. The other thing is if you switched releases and depending on the release you may be “heeling” your bow hand down a bit to make up for a DL change you induced by switching releases. Also, you may be unknowingly anchoring higher than you did with your wrist release to pull into the valley more consistently or hit the wall. Be sure every time you draw with the bow your reaching the wall naturally and your not heeling the bow to make it fit you. When you’re heeling the bow it’s inducing a slight bottom riser movement out and top of riser movement in causing that clearance issue.
 
That’s why I like limb driven rests so much more if you’re not getting drop “quick enough” you can move the pull cord attachment back toward the cam more on the limb to adjust for this if needed.
 
Yeah I shot yesterday, really focusing on form, anchors etc and didn’t have 1 fletching contact issue..

I think it is just the process of getting down my positioning and form with new release. Bareshaft and fletching seems to be golden.
 
You have a rest issue, either timing OR rest failure itself (either bounce-back or failure to drop). Make sure your rest timing cable is fully loaded, because if it is not, and you creep at hold, it may not drop properly. You should not have clearance issues with those vanes! I also highly doubt that it's the containment bar, otherwise that would happen every single time, and also the fact that usually that would be a higher arrow (at close range). If your DL was long and you started creeping forward from time to time that will defeat the rest timing. I would check the launcher/felt for markings... The originally installed launcher should be the "short" one. A limb driven rest is an easy fix, but kinda like replacing the headlight assembly when your bulb is out.
 
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