Friction Hitch Getting Caught in Delta Link?

[JKelly7290]

New to the saddle game but have spent countless hours practicing this offseason. I've tried several friction hitches on my tether/rappel line and am leaning towards a distel or schwabisch. 2 Questions:
1. Does anyone simply slide down their friction hitch to use as autoblock when rappelling? I am currently using a figure 8.

2. If you do not slide it down, has anyone had a problem with their hitch getting stuck in the delta link, making it extremely difficult to pull rope down at end of rappel. Thanks in advance,
JK

 

[Marmuzz]

Yes to #1. Even if you decide not to do that, when you prepare to rappel down (however you do it), just stop a few feet below your stand height slide the hitch down so there’s plenty of free rope until the girth choke around the tree. When you get to the ground and pull on your pull down line, you shouldn’t need much to open up the girth choke and have the whole rappel line fall to the ground.

 

[Weldabeast]

With no branches or knots on the tree for the rope to get caught on just yank and it will fall without having to remove hitch....if there's any knots or branches untie ur friction hitch and stopper knot before yanking

 

[JKelly7290]

Thanks for the quick response. I had been using an autoblock while rappelling, but I like the idea of just sliding down the friction hitch. Trying to avoid having to tie anything while in the tree.

 

[DB4x4]

Thanks for the quick response. I had been using an autoblock while rappelling, but I like the idea of just sliding down the friction hitch. Trying to avoid having to tie anything while in the tree.

Try sliding the friction hitch down and hook it into your LB loop to use as the autoblock/brake. This is what I've done for years and it works great for me. Just note that if using a prusik, you may want to loosen it a bit prior to rappelling. If using a Schwabish or Distel, it's probably not necessary.

One last note, make sure you have enough distance between your autoblock/brake hitch and the 8 so they don't get jammed together.

 

[Praddle]

In the offseason, try practicing the running JRB hitch instead of a quick link. No metal, easy to tie w/ a little practice, stays on tree better (won't slide and no need for tether locker) and is exploding hitch so super simple to pull down from tree. Loving this method.

 

[JKelly7290]

In the offseason, try practicing the running JRB hitch instead of a quick link. No metal, easy to tie w/ a little practice, stays on tree better (won't slide and no need for tether locker) and is exploding hitch so super simple to pull down from tree. Loving this method.

I've thought about it but I would have to get much more efficient with my knot tying and it looks like it would eat up more of my rappel rope (I am only running 30' which is fine b/c I typically only hunt at 15-20 feet)

 

[bfriendly]

When I rappel, I have to stop and take off my platform, go another foot and get my stick……then go the rest of the way. I use a schwabish as a secondary hitch and below my ATC . I just clip it to a lineman’s loop with the same carabiner my secondary bridges connects with. Then I tend it and the ATC with the same hand. Main check on that is that it stays below the ATC! I have never put it above the ATC. Also, that hitch stays on my rope and I slide it up as I wind up my rope.

 

[thedutchtouch]

re: #2, dont leave anything connected to/on your rope above you when you rappel. thats just asking for trouble retrieving the rope its an extra thing to get snagged up.

my personal recommendation would be to use a second friction hitch as an autoblock, but to remove the first one from the rope (after adding the second). order of operations:
1. hunt from friction hitch.
2. when done, attach figure 8 to tag end of rope below friction hitch. (and to you of course)
3. attach second friction hitch to tag end below figure 8. (again, also to you of course)
4. slide top (primary)friction hitch down to transfer load to figure 8/autoblock hitch.
5. once primary hitch fully unweighted, remove it from rope and put in pack/pocket.
6. rappel (pause to remove your platform etc if needed)

this keeps you always connected to the tree, without slack. if you slide the friction hitch down to use as an autoblock, what happens if you have an accident or your platform fails during that brief time you're connecting the 8? you've got a few feet of slack and a fall that's going to hurt a lot in that scenario. unlikely it occurs, but there's a safer option that only requires you to carry one extra prusik loop/ autoblock. good luck and keep practicing!

 

[drpike22]

If you are going to use a figure 8 it is important to make sure you have an auto block or other friction hitch near you belt area/brake hand and connected to your saddle. With out some sort of brake to stop your descent if a mistake is made or you release the rope with your brake hand you will be taking a ride to the ground. One of the advantages of some mechanical devices is that have an automatic braking ability. I always back up whatever I use to rappel with a backup friction hitch, typically an auto block.

 

[JKelly7290]

re: #2, dont leave anything connected to/on your rope above you when you rappel. thats just asking for trouble retrieving the rope its an extra thing to get snagged up.

my personal recommendation would be to use a second friction hitch as an autoblock, but to remove the first one from the rope (after adding the second). order of operations:
1. hunt from friction hitch.
2. when done, attach figure 8 to tag end of rope below friction hitch. (and to you of course)
3. attach second friction hitch to tag end below figure 8. (again, also to you of course)
4. slide top (primary)friction hitch down to transfer load to figure 8/autoblock hitch.
5. once primary hitch fully unweighted, remove it from rope and put in pack/pocket.
6. rappel (pause to remove your platform etc if needed)

this keeps you always connected to the tree, without slack. if you slide the friction hitch down to use as an autoblock, what happens if you have an accident or your platform fails during that brief time you're connecting the 8? you've got a few feet of slack and a fall that's going to hurt a lot in that scenario. unlikely it occurs, but there's a safer option that only requires you to carry one extra prusik loop/ autoblock. good luck and keep practicing!

That is basically what i am doing but I am not removing my friction hitch from rope. I usually either attach my lineman's belt during the transition to the Figure 8 or I attach Figure 8 and lock it off while still connected to friction hitch. Then disconnect from hitch and move it down to lineman's belt.

 

[bfriendly]

That is basically what i am doing but I am not removing my friction hitch from rope. I usually either attach my lineman's belt during the transition to the Figure 8 or I attach Figure 8 and lock it off while still connected to friction hitch. Then disconnect from hitch and move it down to lineman's belt.

I agree with Dutch touch, Leaving it above your rappel device can cause a problem getting the rope down. If you got your LB on, you can unweight and slide the hitch down, hook it to a lineman’s loop and use it as the brake for the figure 8…..I use an ATC that way. Just make sure you have plenty of room from that hitch. I used a longer prussik loop once and had to wrap it an extra time since the length was too long….it was a fresh setup and I learned this lesson via an oh s*#! Moment

 

[Iron_llama]

I generally leave both my rap line and tether on the tree while hunting. My weight is on the tether, my rappel line is rigged with my figure-8 over the friction hitch I climb on. Last season used the Sticht, but experimenting with WLR hitch. Personally I wouldn't want to leave anything on my line that might interfere retrieving it after the hunt.