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Friction Hitches

Brocky said:
Tried your doubled Blake’s, works great, some cord-rope combinations didn’t need the special tuck at the top that you came up with. The one thing I didn’t like was no self tending, but after a few attempts, came up with an easy way to do it. Double the cord and form the eye, put the bottom half of eye on top as usual, but put the top one under the rope, and bring together, and finishing tying as usual. I put the two ends through the bottom three wraps to keep the stopper more in back.
View attachment 97314
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@Brocky, could you post a pic of that hitch from the back side, too? I want to be sure I'm tying it correctly. Thanks in advance, and Merry Christmas!
 
That is a nice twist Brocky. I didn’t pursue self tending because I still one-stik and I work the rope as I climb.
I really like this hitch because I untie it for rope retrieval and having tied the Blakes hundreds of times it requires no thought for me.

On my cordage it works without binding likely due to the double wraps. A single blake will tend to bind over time on drt.

Part of my reason to share this one is to see how universal it is. Meaning will it work with any cord/rope/ diameter combinations.
If people could try it for testing that would be kool.
Just don’t cinch the legs too tight when tucking thru bottom turns and it grabs and releases like a charm.

Merry Christmas
 
Bigfoot522 said:
That is a nice twist Brocky. I didn’t pursue self tending because I still one-stik and I work the rope as I climb.
I really like this hitch because I untie it for rope retrieval and having tied the Blakes hundreds of times it requires no thought for me.

On my cordage it works without binding likely due to the double wraps. A single blake will tend to bind over time on drt.

Part of my reason to share this one is to see how universal it is. Meaning will it work with any cord/rope/ diameter combinations.
If people could try it for testing that would be kool.
Just don’t cinch the legs too tight when tucking thru bottom turns and it grabs and releases like a charm.

Merry Christmas
Click to expand...
Very interesting hitch. I have extra cordage, a bottle of bourbon, and extra time today. Cheers and MXMas!
 
I reckon I already know the answer but I'm posting just in case. I have reviewed this entire thread and many others, but can't find a friction hitch that can be tied with a sewn prusik loop which...

1) breaks under load
2) always grabs
3) tends well(by itself or with a tender)

I will buy additional rope or an eye to eye cord if necessary but would obviously love to use what I have
40' Sterling HTP 10mm and using a super munter to descend.
sterling hollowblock2 (backup hitch)
8mm 20" sewn prusik loop from RNR
5.5mm Beal Jammy 20"
 
steveharvey said:
I reckon I already know the answer but I'm posting just in case. I have reviewed this entire thread and many others, but can't find a friction hitch that can be tied with a sewn prusik loop which...

1) breaks under load
2) always grabs
3) tends well(by itself or with a tender)

I will buy additional rope or an eye to eye cord if necessary but would obviously love to use what I have
40' Sterling HTP 10mm and using a super munter to descend.
sterling hollowblock2 (backup hitch)
8mm 20" sewn prusik loop from RNR
5.5mm Beal Jammy 20"
Click to expand...
I haven't been impressed with any of the options I have tried which meet your description. Incidentally, I asked the same question on Treebuzz forum years ago and that's where I "met" @Brocky, who gave me some of his drawings.

My suggestion is not made with a Prusik Loop... just cord: for 10mm rope, Cut 7.5 ft of 7mm cord, and with 14in working ends, form a Longhorn Hitch, which becomes the substitute for a Prusik loop. Extend the left loop 20in and form a Longhorn Agile Hitch. I can do it this quickly and reliably and of course it self tends and breaks under load.

JrbTreeClimbing.com, affiliated with RockNArbor.com
 
Page 13, post # 245 of this thread starts a discussion on tying the Sticht Hitch, which checks all your boxes.
steveharvey said:
I reckon I already know the answer but I'm posting just in case. I have reviewed this entire thread and many others, but can't find a friction hitch that can be tied with a sewn prusik loop which...

1) breaks under load
2) always grabs
3) tends well(by itself or with a tender)

I will buy additional rope or an eye to eye cord if necessary but would obviously love to use what I have
40' Sterling HTP 10mm and using a super munter to descend.
sterling hollowblock2 (backup hitch)
8mm 20" sewn prusik loop from RNR
5.5mm Beal Jammy 20"
Click to expand...
 
Brocky said:
This is another, called the Knut H Hitch, doesn’t need a ring, and your 20” loop would be a nice length, 20” was too long for the Sticht. It releases easy and self tends, also.
View attachment 97483
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That looks similar to a Beal Jammy. My question is the Beal Jammy Heat resistant? If I tried that knot with a Jammy on a DRT am I gonna burn thru it? The smaller diameter makes me a little more skeptical. Web site says it has a heat resistant jacket. But not sure what that means.
 
Brocky said:
This is another, called the Knut H Hitch, doesn’t need a ring, and your 20” loop would be a nice length, 20” was too long for the Sticht. It releases easy and self tends, also.
View attachment 97483
Click to expand...
I did see this one on one of your drawings in this thread. Definitely works with the Beal jammy just havent tested it under my weight. But it looks great!
 
MattMan81 said:
That looks similar to a Beal Jammy. My question is the Beal Jammy Heat resistant? If I tried that knot with a Jammy on a DRT am I gonna burn thru it? The smaller diameter makes me a little more skeptical. Web site says it has a heat resistant jacket. But not sure what that means.
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It is quite heat resistant as I understand it. I’ve never found them to be the longest lasting pieces of cordage either way.
 
MattMan81 said:
That looks similar to a Beal Jammy. My question is the Beal Jammy Heat resistant? If I tried that knot with a Jammy on a DRT am I gonna burn thru it? The smaller diameter makes me a little more skeptical. Web site says it has a heat resistant jacket. But not sure what that means.
Click to expand...

It’s the middle length Jammy, about 20”, I took the plastic cover off for some reason. It has a Kevlar core, heat resistant, and nylon cover, not heat resistant, they offer a version of cord, not loop, with a dyneema core, with a break strength of 18kN. The Kevlar cord has a break strength of 15kN.



The first Knut H was a double eye hitch, top in picture below. The bottom one is tied with the end of the rope, next one up shows the same tying, but with the Jammy, next one is like the last, but uses the second eye to become a double eye hitch, called the Enzyme, discovered by someone else.
IMG_6559.jpeg
 
Recently came up with an easier method to tie the stopper that tends just as easily as putting the ends under the twist. Form the eyes by bringing them down and through the ring to the back, and tie a half hitch, and then the stopper. A square, or grannies knot would be more compact, but I‘m not sure I would trust them for extended use.
IMG_6570.jpeg
 
Brocky said:
Recently came up with an easier method to tie the stopper that tends just as easily as putting the ends under the twist. Form the eyes by bringing them down and through the ring to the back, and tie a half hitch, and then the stopper. A square, or grannies knot would be more compact, but I‘m not sure I would trust them for extended use.
View attachment 97986
Click to expand...
I dream of a beautiful future when my brain can understand your knots and duplicate them
 
steveharvey said:
I reckon I already know the answer but I'm posting just in case. I have reviewed this entire thread and many others, but can't find a friction hitch that can be tied with a sewn prusik loop which...

1) breaks under load
2) always grabs
3) tends well(by itself or with a tender)

I will buy additional rope or an eye to eye cord if necessary but would obviously love to use what I have
40' Sterling HTP 10mm and using a super munter to descend.
sterling hollowblock2 (backup hitch)
8mm 20" sewn prusik loop from RNR
5.5mm Beal Jammy 20"
Click to expand...
Sticht hitch! Both are using a Beal Jammy on 8mm RescTech with a 5x30mm SS welded ring.
 

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bowhunthard88 said:
Sticht hitch! Both are using a Beal Jammy on 8mm RescTech with a 5x30mm SS welded ring.
Click to expand...
Dope on a Rope said:
I dream of a beautiful future when my brain can understand your knots and duplicate them
Click to expand...
Sticht would be my preference, and if you can’t get a ring right away you can fashion one out of a short length of cordage. Maybe even use a small climbing carabiner instead. Dunno for sure.
You could potentially do a standard Agile but double check that it grabs the way you want because you may only get 3-4 wraps before you can’t finish the hitch. That said, 4 wraps is ideal for breaking under load.
 
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