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Help ease my mind on a bow/arrow config
- Thread starter Red Beard
- Start date
$250 is a lot of steel to lose in the swamp mud after blowing through an 80lb doe.
The 3 pack is a much better deal at $600
S-7 is a pretty common and not so expensive tool steel. They think quite a bit of their machining in my opinion as it should be in the $15 range. Go with the 40# and make me sleep better.
I posted the link in jest....but in all seriousness...$15 dollars..not unless u already own the material (and tools)and labor is free and u dont include consumables...that's not very fair statement
I do agree that's it's overpriced big time
I am actually planning on doing a post on this topic at the end of the season. Due to a shoulder injury I am hunting with a 33lb recurve. I have killed two deer with it so far and it is doing great. Im shooting a 480 grain arrow and I am limiting my shots to 17 yards or less. With a magnus stinger 2 blade you need much less power than many think, assuming you avoid the shoulder.
You might take a look at your alignment in your form. Get both of yours shoulders pointed in alignment at the target, straight bow arm, and proper back tension and the bow weight will feel lighter. And maybe cut down on the number of arrows you shoot in a practice session...fewer arrows each session, but shoot more often.
Is 32# enough to kill deer? Yes. But can bad things also happen? Yes, specifically if you hit a shoulder. Hit a shoulder on entrance and it likely won't be a fatal hit, one lung at best. If you hit the far shoulder you won't get an exit. You'll most likely have a fatal hit but without an exit, you might have a challenging blood trail.
I would stick with broadside shots and forget about the quartering away angles in which you are essentially aiming for the far shoulder.
3:1, straight edge broadhead with the ferrule no larger than the insert and shaft, micro diameter shafts. And make sure that you do not short draw. Guys like us with short draw lengths do not generate as much energy as a string bean drawing the same poundage at 29" or 30".
Is 32# enough to kill deer? Yes. But can bad things also happen? Yes, specifically if you hit a shoulder. Hit a shoulder on entrance and it likely won't be a fatal hit, one lung at best. If you hit the far shoulder you won't get an exit. You'll most likely have a fatal hit but without an exit, you might have a challenging blood trail.
I would stick with broadside shots and forget about the quartering away angles in which you are essentially aiming for the far shoulder.
3:1, straight edge broadhead with the ferrule no larger than the insert and shaft, micro diameter shafts. And make sure that you do not short draw. Guys like us with short draw lengths do not generate as much energy as a string bean drawing the same poundage at 29" or 30".
With a stickbow that light, I'm looking at max a 15 yard shot. That is if you are a pretty good shooter, although it's hard to quantify "good shooter." Let's say this: your first shot of a shooting session should be in a baseball-sized area 10 times out of 10. If that distance is 10 yards, then get within 10 yards. With such a light bow, I'd say this is playing it sufficiently safe. But indigenous people have been killing deer with lightweight selfbows and lightweight stone points for a very long time. (Of course, they were also probably better at tracking the deer afterwards than you or I.)
This would be my suggestion also. Whenever my 45 lb bow starts to feel heavy I pick up my one of my 50+ lb bows and shoot it for a week. Then my 45 lb bow suddenly feels light again and I shoot with better form.
If you still have those 50 lb limbs shoot them for a few days. You won't believe how light the 40 lb limbs feel after that.
But just don't develop any bad habits when you are shooting the heavy limbs.
I would keep it under 20, probably even 15, but if you shoot a well-tuned arrow I wouldn’t hesitate using that setup.
