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Help ease my mind on a bow/arrow config

Red Beard

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Mar 3, 2019
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I chugged the heavy arrow/EFOC Kool-aid a while ago when setting up my compounds. Then I transferred that arrow (605gr) over to a 40lb Sage earlier this year. It's shoots well. However, the bow is taxing to draw over and over again and so I find myself regularly picking up my 32lb Sage for practicing. I've become really comfortable shooting it and I'm confident in the trajectory at various yardage.

Here's where I need help... the 32lb Sage is shooting a 500gr TAW arrow with 212gr of that being on the nose. Assuming the poundage falls within state regulations, is this a setup I can effectively hunt with? Would yall be confident in said arrow achieving passing throughs from a 32lb stickbow within 25yds?
 

Razorbak66

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Oct 17, 2019
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I would shoot a 1916 or 600 spine arrow and tune the crap out of it and I’m expecting it to shoot about 200 to 250grain head cut on contact head what ever the total weight it rolls about 400 to 450 taw and run with it. I agree with heavy FOC to a point but I want to have as flat as I can trajectory to get that power into the animal rather than dropping in the animal but that’s me
 

gcr0003

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Nov 1, 2018
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Are you drawing 28”? If you’re not then you’ll be pulling less than 32lbs at 28”. Not sure if that’s already in your 32 and 40 already.
 
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will4554

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Oct 29, 2018
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I would stick to shots under 20, personally. Broadside or 1/4 away, I don't think you'll have problems. As long as you have perfect flight I wouldn't worry about sending it. I don't know about pass throughs. I did get a pass through with a 550 grain taw on a 40 pound bow last season, lots of variables there though
 

Razorbak66

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I want to say Josh told me he was under or at about 27” draw and another note for us short draw guys I personally hate my arrow sticking past my rest to much I have a 27.5” draw I cut my arrows to 28.50” I find that’s plenty of room to draw and extra draw in the heat of the moment I want my arrow to get as much speed and KE out if that set up I’m using
 
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Jagger0502

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Oct 26, 2020
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Focusing on a “pass thru” shot is a variable that can change quickly on shot placement and broadheads. In most states I have hunted, 30 lb is the minimum poundage allowed to hunt with. Following the state rule you can legally hunt with your 32 lb. Hit no bone a pass thru is possible. Hit the shoulder and you will likely have trouble. Limiting your shot distance to 15 or even 20 would be a better tactic for more penetration.

if you really want to figure out penetration you should set up a consistent target - new foam or gel and take a shot with it, compare it to your other bows you have had deep penetration with and compare at 15 and 25 and see how it does. OR get it on a chrono and do the math with speed and arrow weight.

at the end of the day shot placement will be your limiting variable. If at 25 yards you know you can hit between two ribs and not hit a shoulder on either side you might get it... hit anything other than tissue and you will have trouble on a “pass thru”

food for thought is I practice with my 30lb limbs all year and then put on my 50lb Limbs during the season. (Of course practice for a few weeks leading into the season) Shot placement out to 15 between the two are negligible but 20 and 25 I gain 1” and 1.5” respectfully so I account for that when switching over but it is still negligible but I also limit myself to 20 yards. I don’t notice the extra lbs when a deer is in range.
 

will4554

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Oct 29, 2018
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I'm not a card-carrying cult member, so no one skewer me. But didn't Ashby get a (near) pass through on a water buffalo with a 30-pound bow? It's all about the setup.
 
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Razorbak66

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I'm not a card-carrying cult member, so no one skewer me. But didn't Ashby get a (near) pass through on a water buffalo with a 30-pound bow? It's all about the setup.
That one I never heard of I heard it was a 60# with a 8 or 900 grain hill style and the off side it was hanging out. I agree to a point with some of Ashby findings but a heavy arrow and heavy cut on contact head will kill deer dead regardless unless you hit shoulder blades which will stop a good amount of arrows regardless
 
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will4554

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Oct 29, 2018
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That one I never heard of I heard it was a 60# with a 8 or 900 grain hill style and the off side it was hanging out. I agree to a point with some of Ashby findings but a heavy arrow and heavy cut on contact head will kill deer dead regardless unless you hit shoulder blades which will stop a good amount of arrows regardless
I could be totally wrong. Hanging from the fletch I do remember hearing though, very well could have been a 60 pound bow.
 
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BTaylor

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Oct 23, 2019
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I will be a dissenting voice on this. While yes, you can kill with the lighter bow, I would not encourage it. I think you would be better served by building the strength to shoot the 40 pounder to your expectations. I would actually encourage to build your strength to shoot 50# and then shoot the 40 if you choose too. It's kinda like practicing at 35 yards, it makes the 20 yarders easier.
 

Hunter260

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Sep 14, 2019
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I chugged the heavy arrow/EFOC Kool-aid a while ago when setting up my compounds. Then I transferred that arrow (605gr) over to a 40lb Sage earlier this year. It's shoots well. However, the bow is taxing to draw over and over again and so I find myself regularly picking up my 32lb Sage for practicing. I've become really comfortable shooting it and I'm confident in the trajectory at various yardage.

Here's where I need help... the 32lb Sage is shooting a 500gr TAW arrow with 212gr of that being on the nose. Assuming the poundage falls within state regulations, is this a setup I can effectively hunt with? Would yall be confident in said arrow achieving passing throughs from a 32lb stickbow within 25yds?
I think as long as your head is a sharp 2 blade that’s like that 3/1 ratio and not wider than about an inch you’ll be fine.

I know it’s no comparison but my wife has had 2 pass throughs With a 32lb compound at 26” with a 500grain arrow and 1 inch wide 2 blade.
 

kbetts

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Oct 13, 2015
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Personally, I feel like the poundage is too light. You aren't shooting a bunch of arrows when hunting.
Maybe try some light strength training? We're talking borderline kids bow at this point. Not trying to be a pessimist, but that's reality. Bad idea.
 

Razorbak66

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Oct 17, 2019
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Do what I use to do I use to shoot 80/90 longbows and recurves religiously and quite good too I drew held and anchor before I made my shot left hand and right hand so when I shoot my 70# er’s it was nothing to pull but now days as I got older I shoot between 48# to 60# now days. I shoot the heaviest I can comfortably draw anchor and shoot with a fairly heavy arrow and head and have gotten pass thrus if I don’t hit bone. If you want to build strength to shoot heavier weights do this
Grab bow pull 1/4 draw and hold 5 seconds then 1/2 draw and hold and then 3/4 draw and hold then full draw then hold twice as long then reverse it doing the same thing then do the other hand in your case righty repeat do this several times a day then increase hold time as you get stronger that’s how I used to be able to shoot heavier weights it takes a little time but it works if you do this you’ll be able to pull 50 er’s in couple weeks and even if I didn’t shoot for weeks I would still do this every day when I go in my man cave It’s like doing a kata you don’t get it the first couple times but as you do it more and more your muscle repetition gets stronger and quicker and crispier your movements get smoother. Etc….,,
 

Nutterbuster

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Oct 12, 2017
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Where the skys are so blue!
There's a pretty easy way to figure this out.

Take your arrow. Weigh it. Shoot it through a chronograph. Use this calculator:


For thoroughness, you can shoot it through the chrony at range (10-20 yards) and use that calculation too to see how fast you're losing energy.

This will tell you where your bow/arrow stands on hole-punching ability. The 2 blade COC broadhead is I think a given, as is keeping shots close. I'd personally say that was a 15 yards and in rig if the numbers looked ok.

Not sure if you have one, but a $10 grain scale and a $100 chronograph will answer questions like this very definitively. If a chronograph isn't something you want to buy any shop worth its salt should have one and at the most charge you 5 bucks to shoot a few arrows through it. Probably do it for free if you buy some goodies you needed anyway.
 
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