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Ideas for securing gear in a canoe?

Coachschaller

Active Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2021
Messages
183
Location
SE Michigan
I have a 17 foot fiberglass canoe. Does anybody have any good ideas for securing gear during the ride and in case of a capsize? I do not want thousands of dollars of gear in the bottom of the river....
I am able to get really close to a couple of my spots by river, so I might like to be quiet. You can tell me your experience if stealth is feasible while getting in or out of the canoe.
Gear:
JX3: Might not wear as well as my Cruzr XC while paddling. So I might need to secure it
Backpack: Very large, might be leaving it in the canoe during the hunt.
Bow.

I am a little afraid of just loosely placing the gear on the floor of the canoe. I could step on it on my way out of the canoe (should I place it in the front or middle?), or it could fall out of the canoe should the canoe tip. I have thought about just putting a rope and carabiner on the cross member. I have also thought about a giant float inner-tube, or a life jacket.

Looking forward to hearing your experiences
 
I’d say if you’re worried about flipping a canoe with only yourself operating it then you should reconsider using a canoe to get to hunting spots. Have you flipped this canoe or many canoes before? 17ft is a fairly large canoe for one person. What’s the water like where you’re going? Fast moving stream, flat lake, creek? That would all factor into my decision to strap gear down or even take a canoe. The risk to run into stuff, get turned sideways by the current and or flip increases with less visibility and those are the hours we are going or returning from our hunts. I’ve used a 14 ft old town guide canoe for a several hunts and it does very well but the water I typically hunt are low flow. That said I typically put my gear all the way in the front since it’s not a lot of weight compared to my body weight. That position helps the gear trim the canoe out. Strapping gear down never crossed my mind. If I flipped in the winter time with significant clothes on I’d be more worried about not drowning and hypothermia then gear. Always wear a life jacket and let someone know where you’re going and when they should expect you back. Happy hunting, and stay safe. 097528DA-4E01-458C-AE4E-6784063D5FF4.jpeg07E17976-0398-4A78-91D0-CE4A2F140F85.jpeg29C70950-F4C3-49B0-97F7-04676417B849.jpeg
 
Just swim there with it if that's how you plan to end up. I'm sure Sitka makes a $500 wetsuit by now.

As for the canoe, paddle it to a place you can unload, and do that. Or line it with a soft material if you want the Facebook ninja mod.

I think I've found the end of the internet, catch you later comrades.
 
I was going to suggest a large dry bag and maybe a soft side bow case with some swimming pool noodles crammed inside. We duck hunt out of my old town fairly regularly and cram a pool noodle in my son’s shotgun case since it’s not a floating case. I wouldn’t strap anything inside the canoe since a submerged or flipped canoe is hard enough to re-float by itself. A big heavy pack would probably make it near impossible. My shotgun case floats so I have no problem taking my $1200 Benelli. I figure if I flip I can always come back for it. I had a 17’ aluminum canoe back several years ago that I built outriggers for. I tried to flip that thing and couldn’t.
 
@Coachschaller Valid concerns. Always good to think ahead and be proactive. I attach the chest strap from my backpack (with my saddle, sticks, and platform) to the thwart of the canoe so if I dump over the chest strap keeps those things with the canoe. I put my bow behind the rear seat and attach it to the rear handle of the canoe using a piece of Paracord and a couple of carabiners. Haven’t dumped, don’t plan to (who does?) - but worthwhile to think ahead of “what if?” I don’t typically bring much else with me in the canoe. It gets crowded when an animal joins the ride!
 
The 1st thing I would want is a throw bag clipped to the bow thwart. In the event of a capsize you can grab the bag and swim easier to shore. At that point you can pull the boat and all your attached gear in to shore.

Any gear that you don't want to loose should be clipped to thwarts. It doesn't have to be elaborate. Lots of gear already has straps and clips. Utilize them in the canoe. It's extremely easy to get creative with beeners and short lengths of cordage. Choke cinch cords to thwarts and clip the beener to your items. And not every item needs to have its own dedicated leash. As long as it can connect to another item that is leashed then it won't end up on the bottom of the lake or stream. And even something that floats still needs connected to the boat. You'd be amazed at how quickly gear can be scattered and blown away or taken by current. That's the value of the throw bag on the bow thwart. You don't have to worry about anything other that grabbing the throw rope and swimming to safety.

We've taken many canoe camping trips on lakes and whitewater rivers and as the years go by, we've become much less anal about how we attach to the canoe, but we do still clips stuff in if we can't afford to lose it. Straps with clips or short leashes and beeners attached to thwarts is all you need.

Being able to easily rescue gear is critical if you pin the boat. Having all your gear firmly anchored in the boat in a complicated system may seem like a good idea but if you flip and the boat gets pinned, you'll have big challenges getting the stuff back out.

If you still want to attach gear to the bottom, you can buy glue-down D rings.
Gear placement (weight distribution) is critical. Gotta trim the boat for safe and efficient paddling.

And speaking of paddles, it's becoming more popular to use kayak paddles in a canoe. We are seeing a lot of people paddling canoes with double blades. It is efficient and really helps with boat control so crucial to safe paddling. Waves on windy lakes can be more dangerous than whitewater...CONTROL YOUR BOAT!

And depending on the location of the thwarts, is often possible for a solo paddler to paddle from the bow seat facing the rear. The bow essentially becomes the stern. It shifts your weight more to the middle.

Always carry a spare paddle in the event you lose or break one.
I have a buddy who came back to his canoe after the hunt and his paddle had been stolen by some dirt bag maggot. Don't assume that your unattended gear is safe from theft. Consider a cable and lock.
Paddle safe.
 
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The 1st thing I would want is a throw bag clipped to the bow thwart. In the event of a capsize you can grab the bag and swim easier to shore. At that point you can pull the boat and all your attached gear in to shore.

Any gear that you don't want to loose should be clipped to thwarts. It doesn't have to be elaborate. Lots of gear already has straps and clips. Utilize them in the canoe. It's extremely easy to get creative with beeners and short lengths of cordage. Choke cinch cords to thwarts and clip the beener to your items. And not every item needs to have its own dedicated leash. As long as it can connect to another item that is leashed then it won't end up on the bottom of the lake or stream. And even something that floats still needs connected to the boat. You'd be amazed at how quickly gear can be scattered and blown away or taken by current. That's the value of the throw bag on the bow thwart. You don't have to worry about anything other that grabbing the throw rope and swimming to safety.

We've taken many canoe camping trips on lakes and whitewater rivers and as the years go by, we've become much less anal about how we attach to the canoe, but we do still clips stuff in if we can't afford to lose it. Straps with clips or short leashes and beeners attached to thwarts is all you need.

Being able to easily rescue gear is critical if you pin the boat. Having all your gear firmly anchored in the boat in a complicated system may seem like a good idea but if you flip and the boat gets pinned, you'll have big challenges getting the stuff back out.

If you still want to attach gear to the bottom, you can buy glue-down D rings.
Gear placement (weight distribution) is critical. Gotta trim the boat for safe and efficient paddling.

And speaking of paddles, it's becoming more popular to use kayak paddles in a canoe. We are seeing a lot of people paddling canoes with double blades. It is efficient and really helps with boat control so crucial to safe paddling. Waves on windy lakes can be more dangerous than whitewater...CONTROL YOUR BOAT!

And depending on the location of the thwarts, is often possible for a solo paddler to paddle from the bow seat facing the rear. The bow essentially becomes the stern. It shifts your weight more to the middle.

Always carry a spare paddle in the event you lose or break one.
I have a buddy who came back to his canoe after the hunt and his paddle had been stolen by some dirt bag maggot. Don't assume that your unattended gear is safe from theft. Consider a cable and lock.
Paddle safe.
Did he hear banjo music at any point by chance?
 
Canoes suck!!! :mad: There are 3 rules to fishing from a canoe:
#1 Keep your butt on the seat at all times.
#2 Watch which way you're swinging those fish hooks.
#3 Keep your butt on the seat at all times.

A hybrid kayak is best for hunting. It has the payload ability of a canoe, but the lower center of gravity and best stabilization of a kayak. :cool:
Bass Pro sells the Ascend brand of hybrid kayaks and the best one is the H12. If I were fishing or hunting, this is my choice! :)
Ascend H12.jpg
 
Canoes suck!!! :mad: There are 3 rules to fishing from a canoe:
#1 Keep your butt on the seat at all times.
#2 Watch which way you're swinging those fish hooks.
#3 Keep your butt on the seat at all times.

A hybrid kayak is best for hunting. It has the payload ability of a canoe, but the lower center of gravity and best stabilization of a kayak. :cool:
Bass Pro sells the Ascend brand of hybrid kayaks and the best one is the H12. If I were fishing or hunting, this is my choice! :)
View attachment 91825


I bought my wife a kayak last Christmas and used it to fish out of. Not enough room for my tackle box, let alone hunting gear. That hybrid kayak looks awesome for what I would need.... Except I already have a canoe.
 
The 1st thing I would want is a throw bag clipped to the bow thwart. In the event of a capsize you can grab the bag and swim easier to shore. At that point you can pull the boat and all your attached gear in to shore.

And speaking of paddles, it's becoming more popular to use kayak paddles in a canoe. We are seeing a lot of people paddling canoes with double blades. It is efficient and really helps with boat control so crucial to safe paddling. Waves on windy lakes can be more dangerous than whitewater...CONTROL YOUR BOAT!


Always carry a spare paddle in the event you lose or break one.
I have a buddy who came back to his canoe after the hunt and his paddle had been stolen by some dirt bag maggot. Don't assume that your unattended gear is safe from theft. Consider a cable and lock.
Paddle safe.
I really like the throw bag concept!!!!
I will likely steal my wife's kayak paddle.
Where I am hunting right now, if my paddle is stolen while hunting I will be able to walk back or call family to give me a ride. I can already access my stands without the water way, but the river will spook less deer and for some stands will be a significant shortcut.

I do not plan to float out a deer. Those banks are steep!
 
Since you say river... can you paddle back upstream? And if you don't float the deer out, you're going to drag it out, then walk back in and paddle the canoe out? Seems like a lot of extra effort.

Just some extra unsolicited thoughts since it seems the original questions asked were answered...
 
Simple solution. Clip a life jacket to your valuables. I've done it a couple of times in squirrely crossings.

But I agree on the "don't flip it" thought.
Stuff still needs to be attached to the canoe. Have you ever heard of the expression "yard sale" which refers to a flipped boat and all it's loose gear floating away?
 
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I bought my wife a kayak last Christmas and used it to fish out of. Not enough room for my tackle box, let alone hunting gear. That hybrid kayak looks awesome for what I would need.... Except I already have a canoe.
I'd sell the canoe, buy the H12 and you'd be far better off. By that I mean, no worries about losing your gear from getting dumped, hypothermia, etc. The peace of mind alone is a good thing. :cool:
While traveling on the water I've always had a Dry Bag, that has a towel and change of clothes. Never used it, but it was cheap insurance in case of getting wet....whether it was warm or cold weather conditions. :)
 
Since you say river... can you paddle back upstream? And if you don't float the deer out, you're going to drag it out, then walk back in and paddle the canoe out? Seems like a lot of extra effort.

Just some extra unsolicited thoughts since it seems the original questions asked were answered...
Yes, I can paddle upstream fairly easily, the current has not been fast.
It will be closer and easier to drag the deer to a place I can use the vehicle. The river just affords me a quicker walk and a way to keep from spooking the deer on my way in or out. Truthfully, If I get one I will call my daughter and have her bring the other truck. Then, watch as she guts it for me :)
 
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