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Jon Boat Keel Guards?

Nutterbuster

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2017
Messages
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Where the skys are so blue!
Just ordered a new Weldcraft 1436 to replace my 63 year old Sears riveted jon. I've been taking a careful look at what wear and tear looks like on an aluminum boat, and problem #1 was rivets leaking. A welded boat should fix that little issue. Problem #2 seems to be wear on the chines where the bow sweeps up in the front. I launch the boat solo at not-so-nice launches, and it looks like the prior owners did as well. Seems like over time it just chewed up the "proud" spots on the chines where they contacted rocks/concrete when launching and beaching the boat.

Regular ole department store riveted boats usually use a 1.3mm aluminum or thereabouts. Weldcraft uses 2.13mm, so there's almost twice as much material to wear. That's good. But I'm curious if anybody knows of a good patch or tape that can be applied to those high-wear areas to head that issue off at the pass. Something like a kevlar patch maybe? I don't have the abilty to weld anything over it, and would prefer not to poke holes in the bottom to rivet/bolt/screw a keel guard in place. I know it's a tall order to get something to stick to the bottom of a boat hauling butt down the river, but figured maybe somebody knew of something I could reapply every so often to keep the aluminum away from the concrete.
 
Looks like that stuff isn't really adhesive, and has to be wrapped. Cool idea though.

Brazing rods would be awesome, but I think that's beyond my capability. We'll see what it looks like when we get it. He may have beefed up the chines. Hard to tell in pics.
 
Have you thought about painting it with gator glide? Supposed to make it slick and prevent wear.
 
I've run all my aluminum boats over logs, stumps, oyster bars, & pull into gravel &
rocks all the time to tie up to land. Never felt any problems pushing to get out a hole
onto plane. On plane everything rides smooth, even with beat up chines. To me that's
the pride & joy of a good jon. Even got a aluminum deep v with beauty marked chines
& it still cuts on dime. Never had drift in any of them.

Unless it's leaking I wouldn't worry with it. If your planning in running some back creeks
into the deep dark places get a decent light bar set up & make sure it has a on/off switch.
Makes & world of difference. That & two bilge. One automatic. Had boats get stuck under
roots & limbs doing all day hunts from the tides & flooded the rear.

It's kinda like how you should never clean & polish cowboy boots. The more beat up the
better. Go beat it up with confidence & get it bloody. And please, don't polish your boots.

I know this isn't the answer your looking for, but I promise it makes the beer taste better!
 
Well, there is an exception to the cowboy boot rule....when I was stationed in Orlando there was this girl downtown that had a boot shine chair set up. She was well endowed, shall we say, and always wore a low cut shirt. She made a killing shining boots, mine included.
 
Nutter, is it possible you are overthinking this one? The old boat lasted 60 years, and the new boat is better, right?
 
giphy.webp
 
Nutter - PM me your address I have some extra tape you can use to experiment with .
You just need a material to sick to the other side .
The Gator Guard stuff above is an easy enough off the shelf option.
 
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