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Madrock Scare

bpz89

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2019
Messages
263
I have been practicing one-sticking and SRT for about a month now. Madrock and 10mm Sterling HTP. I have climbed maybe 15 times.

Today will practicing SRT I felt myself sliding down slightly. I quickly looked and the madrock and noticed it slipping about 1/4” at a time. I quickly grabbed my break side and rappelled down.

Yes during this time I was “hands free” but I had never experienced this the other times. and as far as I see it would be impossible to not be hands free with one-sticking or SRT.

Has anyone else experienced this? Is the Gri gri + do this too?


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I have never had the slightest bit of slip on 9mm to 11mm ropes. I weigh 185 pounds. I always have a back up of autoblock or VT though, just in case.
 
I have been practicing one-sticking and SRT for about a month now. Madrock and 10mm Sterling HTP. I have climbed maybe 15 times.

Today will practicing SRT I felt myself sliding down slightly. I quickly looked and the madrock and noticed it slipping about 1/4” at a time. I quickly grabbed my break side and rappelled down.

Yes during this time I was “hands free” but I had never experienced this the other times. and as far as I see it would be impossible to not be hands free with one-sticking or SRT.

Has anyone else experienced this? Is the Gri gri + do this too?


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Never had a slip, even on 8mm rope and 250+ lbs.

Tie an alpine butterfly below your device when you're at height and not descending to give some extra protection.

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I have never had any slip on 9mm and many times I have hung from the madrock from dawn till dusk. I have sometimes found the tag end looped up and hanging right by the break. Maybe that happened and it wedged itself between the body and break lever.
 
Which Madrock are you using? Post some pics of it and how it's setup with your rope please.
 
Which Madrock are you using? Post some pics of it and how it's setup with your rope please.

Safeguard, 10mm HTP STERLING.


27607e19cc8144ab3fe625e51ab89d58.jpg



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For clarification: "I felt myself sliding down slightly. I quickly looked and the madrock and noticed it slipping about 1/4” at a time."

Did the Madrock slip 1/4" each time you adjusted your rope during your climb?
 
For clarification: "I felt myself sliding down slightly. I quickly looked and the madrock and noticed it slipping about 1/4” at a time."

Did the Madrock slip 1/4" each time you adjusted your rope during your climb?

No. It would slide 1/4” or so then I would grab the tag/brake end and it would stop of course. But as soon as I let go it started slide slowly again. So I just came to the ground after that. Freaked me out. I guess this is why they say NOT to go hands free?


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I’m trying to figure out why the break lever is not sticking up…

Break lever isn’t up in the picture because I wasn’t purposefully rappelling at the time. I
Was hanging and watching the rope slip slowly. About 5 ft off the ground


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When I put my weight into it, the break lever automatically raises up a little. Make sure your setting it up correctly.
 
This is how it looks with 9mm canyon elite.
 

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I just got my Madrock Safeguard 2 weeks ago and have been practicing climbing in my backyard. So far, I have had zero slips. This thread is concerning, I will definitely look into the best backup options.
 
I have a 100+ sits with a safeguard on oplux and canyon. NEVER has it slipped. When loaded correctly I think physics kicks in and it can't slip. Why is the "locking bar" not pinching into your rope enough??? Oplux is being locked down no problem.
 
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