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Mantis Bridge Mods

Wirrex

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So, we have rain forecasted for the next 3 days. It’s time to address the bridge on my Mantis. It’s too damn long! I am more of a leaner and prefer a lower tether with a 24” bridge length (on a sit drag).

Amsteel has become my choice bridge material. I like how the bury on the mantis bridge leaves a little section right in the middle that is thinner. It acts like a “detent”.

I have been thinking about how I want to tackle this shortening. I know that I do not want any hardware on the bridge. I could Brummell one side and lock stitch the other but I am not to fond of the lock stitching. A whoopie sling may be a better option and be nice if I ever want to rappel again.

Has anyone hacked into their new Mantis? Does anyone have a better idea?
 
I may not be the most helpful for you, but I have had an amsteel bridge that I Brummeled one end and buried the other in a moveable fashion like a whoopie sling. I didnt lock stitch it because I wanted it to be adjustable. To help with my peace of mind, I counter buried the tag end about 2" or so to keep the tag from going back into the splice if it ever slipped.
I had 100% confidence with that bridge but ended up cutting off the tag end and lock stitching that splice because I found it to be easier to adjust the saddle via my Ropeman vs the bridge.
I can still comfortably adjust to leaning or sitting by doing this.

The hard part of adjusting a saddle at the bridge the way you are thinking is that you will inevitably end up with a situation where your bridge will be 'thicker' in some areas because of the splice crossing your biner - that got to be annoying and was the main reason why I got rid of the adjustable bridge.

Good luck either way.
Personally, I sort of like a tubular nylon bridge the best because it slides even easier on a biner that amsteel. Maybe it just seems so to me?

Sent from my SM-S820L using Tapatalk
 
If you want to experiment with length I would just girth hitch or fig. 8 retrace one side and then finish it with a fig. 8 retrace or halyard hitch on the other side. Leave yourself some tag end of the rope to play with. The halyard hitch will be easier to play with up in the stand, just make sure linemans belt is secure and connected before tinkering.

I will probably shorten my stock mantis bridge by 4-6" by undoing one of the splices and cutting a length of the amsteel off.
 
If you want to experiment with length I would just girth hitch or fig. 8 retrace one side and then finish it with a fig. 8 retrace or halyard hitch on the other side. Leave yourself some tag end of the rope to play with. The halyard hitch will be easier to play with up in the stand, just make sure linemans belt is secure and connected before tinkering.

I will probably shorten my stock mantis bridge by 4-6" by undoing one of the splices and cutting a length of the amsteel off.

Then you’re back at lock stitching your mantis right?

I’m not into experimenting with length I just don’t want any hardware and am unsure about lock stitching. I guess I’ll just do it.
 
You would only need a lock stitch if you did a spliced eye and didn't use a locked brummel, or wanted extra piece of mind for your splice. Neither of the knots I recommended require any lock stitching.
 
I believe the mantis bridge was made before they sewed the eye/loop material on. I took mine off and you cannot undo it without cutting one side. (maybe I missed something) I went with a Woopie sling amsteel bridge. I am still experimenting with bridge length/tether height to find my spot. I do not have my platform yet. 1st sit was in a sitdrag setup on my LW stand as a platform. 2nd sit was with the mantis and 2 LW sticks setup so I could use the tops as a "ring of steps". I did not like this setup, but it is what I have until my platform comes in. after 2.5hrs, my legs where mush. Whereas I sat 7.5 hrs in the sitdrag on the LW stand/platform as a leaner, much easier on my body.
 
I believe the mantis bridge was made before they sewed the eye/loop material on. I took mine off and you cannot undo it without cutting one side.
This is correct.
 
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