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Mathews 29.5 Lift

USSHornet

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2018
Messages
363
Location
Kentucky
My initial tune is flying nock left and I need to move the rest to the right ( I never like to doing that ) or I guess option 2 is swap the top hats. I do see a lean in the top cam. After thinking about moving the top hats I decided to tweak the rest.

Ordinary Allen keys do not work to loosen the windage screw. They hit the control cable arm.

*** …do they make a set to get in that small space to loosen that screw?

I just punted and swapped the top hats but damn, what do I do to tweak the rest? Remove it from the bow? Or is there a tool?

Thanks for any advice
USS Hornet CV-8


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Would a set of t handle wrenches work? Or do you need to trim the short arm of a regular Allen wrench down to increase clearance?
 
Would a set of t handle wrenches work? Or do you need to trim the short arm of a regular Allen wrench down to increase clearance?

As I thought about it more I saw they make some “stubby” allen keys. Then I got pissed thinking Mathews should include one. Then it occurred to me, that’s a Hamskea Epsilon rest and I recall they included a weird wrench … so I dug it ip snd guess what …it fits!!!!

Lord

Thanks Man !!!
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The local Cabela’s gives the stubby wrenches away. I probably have 20 of them if you need one? QAD usually includes one with their rests.
But, you were better off adjusting the top hats so the problem solved the important issue.
 
I was going to order the podium top hats to clean up a minor tear on paper.

Then I saw a video on tuning to get broad heads hitting with field points at distance.

Just a few tweaks and I was hitting good at 50.
That was my objective.

Not saying you specifically but I think many of us get caught up in getting the perfect paper tear and then expect that to automatically translate into
The above condition.

It is my opinion that you will get a hole inly to undo your efforts when it comes time to bring the field point and broad head impact to come together that last inch or two.
Again, this is dependent on type of heads used.
Not to say it can’t happen.
 
The local Cabela’s gives the stubby wrenches away. I probably have 20 of them if you need one? QAD usually includes one with their rests.
But, you were better off adjusting the top hats so the problem solved the important issue.

I never touch that rest


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I was going to order the podium top hats to clean up a minor tear on paper.

Then I saw a video on tuning to get broad heads hitting with field points at distance.

Just a few tweaks and I was hitting good at 50.
That was my objective.

Not saying you specifically but I think many of us get caught up in getting the perfect paper tear and then expect that to automatically translate into
The above condition.

It is my opinion that you will get a hole inly to undo your efforts when it comes time to bring the field point and broad head impact to come together that last inch or two.
Again, this is dependent on type of heads used.
Not to say it can’t happen.

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My B4 and After ..the tear was actually really bad this was after adj the rest just to see then I put that rest back and used the top hats
 
Thats how the rx8 shot at first then switching top hats greatly improved it.
Couldn’t get rid of the creak tho.
Got a Lift 33 instead.

At 1st switching top hats was putting me off but now having done it a couple of times I really like it. I had luckily already bought a pkg of top hats so I had them on hand.

Also, I have to give kudos to Hoyt hate to admit it but I have a 2017 carbon defiant and I have dry fired that dude at least twice and other than me peeing down my leg …nothing bad happened.


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Wow that Hamskea looks huge. Nothing streamlined about that
 
Looks like washers.
I think first step switch bottom ones left to right
right one to left side.
Then the tops if needed.
Then different size shims.
 
Just bought this bow, been shooting pretty heavy arrows for a while out of my old SQ2. Shot bullet holes with 200 grains and a 100 grain insert. Went to shoot the same arrow and it shot knock right in paper. I’ll play with some other arrow weights and shafts. Was really hoping to not have to buy new arrows. Just for reference I shoot 70 lbs. Arrow length is about 28 5/8 I think. The guys at the shop were able to get it to shoot a bullet hole with a 300 spine, I was shooting 250’s. I tried the 300’s and it shot pretty well. I think they also adjusted the top hats as well.
 
What was the price difference between the one you bought and the one with the adjustment screws on the cams?
I threw my hat on the ground when I saw it as I just got the 33 but I’m not going to trade in.
 
Just bought this bow, been shooting pretty heavy arrows for a while out of my old SQ2. Shot bullet holes with 200 grains and a 100 grain insert. Went to shoot the same arrow and it shot knock right in paper. I’ll play with some other arrow weights and shafts. Was really hoping to not have to buy new arrows. Just for reference I shoot 70 lbs. Arrow length is about 28 5/8 I think. The guys at the shop were able to get it to shoot a bullet hole with a 300 spine, I was shooting 250’s. I tried the 300’s and it shot pretty well. I think they also adjusted the top hats as well.
Did the shop tune the bow itself, or did they tune it with you shooting it? As a righty (correct?), with both bows being spec'd similarly and the same arrow, you should have a nock left tear... Reverse that read if you're lefty.
 
What was the price difference between the one you bought and the one with the adjustment screws on the cams?
I threw my hat on the ground when I saw it as I just got the 33 but I’m not going to trade in.
They had it on sale for 980 so it was like 1100 just for the bow itself. I’d say it’s like a 200 dollar difference. I just figured I’d spend the 200 on a better sight or something, which I did. I’d been saving up for a while from doing side work.
 
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Did the shop tune the bow itself, or did they tune it with you shooting it? As a righty (correct?), with both bows being spec'd similarly and the same arrow, you should have a nock left tear... Reverse that read if you're lefty.
They initially got it centered and then I came and picked it up and shot it. When I shot it, it tore tail right, I’m right handed. I’ve always read that too stiff of spine is a left tear not right. They had me try a 300 spine arrow and it did shoot more consistent bullet holes. I brought one of my 300 spine bare shafts and same thing, shot a good hole. I have a test kit from Serius that I might mess with some more. I’ll try tuning the arrow knock, changing weights, maybe adjust draw weight, etc.

I wish I could have had it set up from start to finish in person, I kind of don’t like how they did that process but it is what it is.
 
They initially got it centered and then I came and picked it up and shot it. When I shot it, it tore tail right, I’m right handed. I’ve always read that too stiff of spine is a left tear not right. They had me try a 300 spine arrow and it did shoot more consistent bullet holes. I brought one of my 300 spine bare shafts and same thing, shot a good hole. I have a test kit from Serius that I might mess with some more. I’ll try tuning the arrow knock, changing weights, maybe adjust draw weight, etc.

I wish I could have had it set up from start to finish in person, I kind of don’t like how they did that process but it is what it is.
Stiff is tail right for a rh shooter. If you're getting a "stiff" read, going weaker is not solving the problem. You need top hat work, with the arrow you want to shoot (in the proper spine), and you as a shooter have to be consistent and bring your "A" game.

Have them check multiple distances as well; like 3yds, 4yds, and 6yds. All your tears should be the same direction, if you're looking for the proper spine.
 
They initially got it centered and then I came and picked it up and shot it. When I shot it, it tore tail right, I’m right handed. I’ve always read that too stiff of spine is a left tear not right. They had me try a 300 spine arrow and it did shoot more consistent bullet holes. I brought one of my 300 spine bare shafts and same thing, shot a good hole. I have a test kit from Serius that I might mess with some more. I’ll try tuning the arrow knock, changing weights, maybe adjust draw weight, etc.

I wish I could have had it set up from start to finish in person, I kind of don’t like how they did that process but it is what it is.
The accessory installation, assembly, and tuning of the "bow"; shouldn't need to be overseen, if it's a reputable shop...
 
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