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Munter Hitch

CooterBrown

CooterBrown

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2020
Messages
1,964
So I went for an hunt 4 hours from home near my daughters house because we had to be there for the weekend for a grandbaby dedication. It was the first hunt of the year and I forgot my lifeguard and my figure 8 and any extra carabiners. I know it was stupid but it happened. They were all in the same bag and I forgot and left the bag laying on the back porch. Problem is I didn't realize I didn't have them in my hunting pack until I had already one-stick up the tree and was preparing my oplux rope to rappel down. I use a different tether(dynamic rope) because I one-stick. So instead of trying to reverse one-stick down the tree I decided to use my carabiner from my tether and use a munter hitch to rappel down the tree. No issue it worked great but the question I have is what is the best way to tie off a munter to be able to go hands free to remove the stick one you have rappelled that 2 or 3 feet to the stick. I did it all with one hand on the tag end and one hand on the stick but would have been a lot easier if i could have used both hands to remove the stick and wrap the aider up and all. Long post for a short question, sorry. What is the best way to tie off a munter hitch?
 
Prusik above the super/monster munter...once the prusik grabs u can let go of the rope....biner gate should be closed but I was only 8 feet up....I biner shame myself

Screenshot_20211019-082915.png
 
I use an auto block hitch/knot on the standing end of the rope and connect to my right side lineman loop.
 
Last edited:
Ok maybe I should ask the question a different way. How could I tie off the munter hitch without using any other equipment( I forgot all of it)? Can a munter hitch be tied off somehow using the tag end of the rope like a figure 8 is. Sorry I didn't word the question correctly.
 
I had a bad day. I also forgot my ring of steps so I had to use my one-stick as my platform, and it actually wasn't that bad and I did see a doe and a yearling but they were across the creek with no shot opportunity.
 
CooterBrown said:
Ok maybe I should ask the question a different way. How could I tie off the munter hitch without using any other equipment( I forgot all of it)? Can a munter hitch be tied off somehow using the tag end of the rope like a figure 8 is. Sorry I didn't word the question correctly.
Click to expand...
How are you hanging from your bridge and tether if you forgot all of it? But...2 wraps around your leg works.
 
U can take the tag end and wrap around ur thigh 3 or 4 times....and if u are really unsure put the rope between ur teeth to keep tension.....I did it this way before using the prusik...it works but slow and lots of added movement but for emergency like this it will be fine. I use a prusik for my tether to saddle connection and then 1 day it dawn's on me to use what's right in front of my face as the safety backup
 
I guess I should explain the procedure...
When it's time to go I will put everything away minus bow hanger and put my vest on. Then I put my linesman's belt back around the trunk and connect. Next I disconnect my bridge connection and remove the biner and reconfigure to were the belly of the biner is now up and my bridge is in the shallow part. Tie munter and insert biner. Finish with the second wrap to make it a super/monster. Slide prusik down and install inside gate of biner. CLose biner gate. Slide prusik up high on the tether and weight the hitch. Lower bow and put bow hanger away. Once u have made sure the hitch is weighted move the prusik down a little and fully weight the hitch again reaffirming it is tied correctly loosening and biting. Loosen linesman and disconnect. 1 hand controls the prusik and the other controls the hitch....with practice u can control how much each individual friction point bites/let's go and to me it seems like a 50/50 split of half tension on both works the best. When u are close to where u want to stop let go of the prusik and it bites the tether and u stop descending. The pressure of the prusik rope on the munter hitch inside the gate of the biner won't allow the munter to loosen. Remove platform/stick/whatever and then break loose the prusik and continue down and repeat if necessary,..

I think that's everything...ohh, I forgot the part about tether pull down rope and moving the tether stop to the other side of the quick link to allow tether retrieval....that happens at the time the bow hanger is removed and bow is lowered
 
Weldabeast said:
I guess I should explain the procedure...
When it's time to go I will put everything away minus bow hanger and put my vest on. Then I put my linesman's belt back around the trunk and connect. Next I disconnect my bridge connection and remove the biner and reconfigure to were the belly of the biner is now up and my bridge is in the shallow part. Tie munter and insert biner. Finish with the second wrap to make it a super/monster. Slide prusik down and install inside gate of biner. CLose biner gate. Slide prusik up high on the tether and weight the hitch. Lower bow and put bow hanger away. Once u have made sure the hitch is weighted move the prusik down a little and fully weight the hitch again reaffirming it is tied correctly loosening and biting. Loosen linesman and disconnect. 1 hand controls the prusik and the other controls the hitch....with practice u can control how much each individual friction point bites/let's go and to me it seems like a 50/50 split of half tension on both works the best. When u are close to where u want to stop let go of the prusik and it bites the tether and u stop descending. The pressure of the prusik rope on the munter hitch inside the gate of the biner won't allow the munter to loosen. Remove platform/stick/whatever and then break loose the prusik and continue down and repeat if necessary,..

I think that's everything...ohh, I forgot the part about tether pull down rope and moving the tether stop to the other side of the quick link to allow tether retrieval....that happens at the time the bow hanger is removed and bow is lowered
Click to expand...

Alright, now I got questions…

Why don’t you configure biner in the orientation for Munter from the get go? Prefer to “screw down so you don’t screw up”?

Also, can’t push hitch eyes/loop to spine of biner then install munter because munter needs to be against spine, right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Jtaylor said:
How are you hanging from your bridge and tether if you forgot all of it? But...2 wraps around your leg works.
Click to expand...
I have a dynamic tether and a kong slyde that I didn't forget thankfully. Dont ask how I transferred from the tether carabiner to the rappel rope using that same carabiner :fearscream:
 
Well... When I am hunting I like the belly of the biner contacting my webbing bridge cause it stays flat and slides easier and when rappelling in need the extra room of the belly side for the munter/prusik.

I'm not sure I understand the second part of the question...if u look at the pic the monster munter is by the spine and notice that the prusik rope is applying pressure to the munter when it's weighted

Someone mentioned I could use a different shaped biner and it would be helper/better and I agree but I already got some that are ok for the job
 
FrankNess14 said:
Alright, now I got questions…

Why don’t you configure biner in the orientation for Munter from the get go? Prefer to “screw down so you don’t screw up”?

Also, can’t push hitch eyes/loop to spine of biner then install munter because munter needs to be against spine, right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Look at post #3 and u will see the difference of the biner configuration

Tether to rappel changeover

Never saddle hunted before and have been assembling equipment all winter. I received my ropes yesterday (thanks EWO!!!) and today started practicing 1 stick high (about 3') off the ground (no platform). My plan was to use my rappel line (8mm) as my tether then add in a munter hitch with...
saddlehunter.com
 
Weldabeast said:
Well... When I am hunting I like the belly of the biner contacting my webbing bridge cause it stays flat and slides easier and when rappelling in need the extra room of the belly side for the munter/prusik.

I'm not sure I understand the second part of the question...if u look at the pic the monster munter is by the spine and notice that the prusik rope is applying pressure to the munter when it's weighted

Someone mentioned I could use a different shaped biner and it would be helper/better and I agree but I already got some that are ok for the job
Click to expand...
Why the super munter?
 
Weldabeast said:
I guess I should explain the procedure...
When it's time to go I will put everything away minus bow hanger and put my vest on. Then I put my linesman's belt back around the trunk and connect. Next I disconnect my bridge connection and remove the biner and reconfigure to were the belly of the biner is now up and my bridge is in the shallow part. Tie munter and insert biner. Finish with the second wrap to make it a super/monster. Slide prusik down and install inside gate of biner. CLose biner gate. Slide prusik up high on the tether and weight the hitch. Lower bow and put bow hanger away. Once u have made sure the hitch is weighted move the prusik down a little and fully weight the hitch again reaffirming it is tied correctly loosening and biting. Loosen linesman and disconnect. 1 hand controls the prusik and the other controls the hitch....with practice u can control how much each individual friction point bites/let's go and to me it seems like a 50/50 split of half tension on both works the best. When u are close to where u want to stop let go of the prusik and it bites the tether and u stop descending. The pressure of the prusik rope on the munter hitch inside the gate of the biner won't allow the munter to loosen. Remove platform/stick/whatever and then break loose the prusik and continue down and repeat if necessary,..

I think that's everything...ohh, I forgot the part about tether pull down rope and moving the tether stop to the other side of the quick link to allow tether retrieval....that happens at the time the bow hanger is removed and bow is lowered
Click to expand...


Is the prussic tough to break loose after being under load?
 
Yeah, I was just confirming why you remove the hitch eyes, install munter, re-install hitch eyes, vs installing munter without removing hitch eyes. The latter would put the hitch eyes against the spine of the biner instead of the munter against the spine. Didn’t know if that caused an issue or not.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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