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[kyler1945]

https://madrock.com/products/safeguard

Here’s the information that can be found on the mad rock. They recommend 8.9-11mm rope. Same for lifeguard.

I don’t know which hand ascender you’re using, so I can’t comment. I would not take the recommendation of a dude on the internet for this - I would go by the written specs of the manufacturer, and the advice of certified climbing instructors.

 

[EricS]

@kyler1945 i like this setup. It’s purpose built for one sticking which to me is one of our more dangerous methods just because of slack in the system. I do like where this is headed. @Nutterbuster has what is probably the most compact tether. Definitely wouldn’t use it in a method that may introduce slack into your system but for hanging at hunting height on a ring of steps it’s great. Your system looks great for one sticking. A couple years ago it seemed like everything was figured out but through critique and innovation we are still improving. Thanks for taking the time to share.

 

[TNSTAAFL]

As I plan to 1-stick with my JX3 I am intrigued by the added safety of this system.

A couple questions:

How much does the ripstop extend when it deploys? I know it likely depends on the force of the fall, but what are it's ranges?

Is the Oplux and Jammy cord necessary to this system, or just good gear to work with? Can the same ripstop and attachment device work with (add safety to) an existing tether and prussik (such as that which comes with the JX3)?

Thanks for your help with this.

 

[EricS]

As I plan to 1-stick with my JX3 I am intrigued by the added safety of this system.

A couple questions:

How much does the ripstop extend when it deploys? I know it likely depends on the force of the fall, but what are it's ranges?

Is the Oplux and Jammy cord necessary to this system, or just good gear to work with? Can the same ripstop and attachment device work with (add safety to) an existing tether and prussik (such as that which comes with the JX3)?

Thanks for your help with this.

Yes. Just put it between your prussik and bridge.
@kyler1945 you chose a sewn prussik. Is there any reason you couldn’t tie one and omit the shackle.

 

[kyler1945]

Yes. Just put it between your prussik and bridge.
@kyler1945 you chose a sewn prussik. Is there any reason you couldn’t tie one and omit the shackle.

It can be done, but I chose not to for two reasons:

I wanted the whole system rated to a minimum of 22kn.

There's no way to attach a sewn friction hitch to the absorber.

If I were willing to compromise on the strength of the hitch - I could tie on, and eliminate the shackle. 6mm cord would be about the biggest you could get away with for a prusik on 8mm rope - and even then some won't grab well enough to be effective. This puts me needing to get back into 9 or 10mm tether rope. Once I performed these mental circles, the combo listed here is the best I could come up with to retain strength and weight.

 

[onestringer]

@kyler1945. Thank you for sharing the Beal jammy. I bought a couple and these seem very solid so far when pared with a tender. Thanks again.


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[bj139]

Why not girth hitch this to your fall arrestor? I girth hitch mine to my RCH belt.
https://www.rei.com/product/125459/beal-prusik-cord-55mm

 

[dlist777]

It can be done, but I chose not to for two reasons:

I wanted the whole system rated to a minimum of 22kn.

There's no way to attach a sewn friction hitch to the absorber.

If I were willing to compromise on the strength of the hitch - I could tie on, and eliminate the shackle. 6mm cord would be about the biggest you could get away with for a prusik on 8mm rope - and even then some won't grab well enough to be effective. This puts me needing to get back into 9 or 10mm tether rope. Once I performed these mental circles, the combo listed here is the best I could come up with to retain strength and weight.

Take a look at photo below. I girth hitched the ripstop to the jammy and then looped it to the rope. Wouldn't this work and eliminate the shackle without compromising rating? Or am I missing something?

Great system btw. Love everything about it so far...

 

[skyjacker]

The girth hitch weakens the system. On pull test the girth hitch always fails before the stitching. You'd probably be fine but to stay full strength you need a rated quicklink, carabiner, or shackle between them. Watch the video slowly, you'll see that the sling failed at the girth hitch not at the stitching where it would normally fail. Also girth hitch of fabric on fabric is worst than girth hitch on metal.

 

[dlist777]

The girth hitch weakens the system. On pull test the girth hitch always fails before the stitching. You'd probably be fine but to stay full strength you need a rated quicklink, carabiner, or shackle between them. Watch the video slowly, you'll see that the sling failed at the girth hitch not at the stitching where it would normally fail. Also girth hitch of fabric on fabric is worst than girth hitch on metal.

Good to know. Thx

 

[hauscaliber]

If you're trying to get rid of hardware, why not run your bridge through the loop on the ripstop then attach the other side with your caribiner from your tether? It may not slide very good on your bridge but you could just use the ripstop during climbing when you have slack in your system.

 

[skyjacker]

I've never been interested in "one sticking" because of the slack control needed to stay safe. I feel a little better about it now and may just give a whirl ...

 

[skyjacker]

No go on the smaller one on a kestrel lineman loop - I tried this early on hoping to skip a biner, and use a spliced eye. I assume the flex is the same. The extra webbing they put in there for wear protection/to keep it open makes it not want to bend. I can't speak to the bow shaped, it might work.

They are TINY.

Update. The larger bow shaped shackle will fit lineman loops on a flex.

 

[kyler1945]

I've never been interested in "one sticking" because of the slack control needed to stay safe. I feel a little better about it now and may just give a whirl ...

I'm not positive, but it appears your ripstop is upside down. I would read over the instructions for setup one more time and double check.

Remember - this doesn't eliminate all risk from putting slack in an anchor system. That rope and prusik will not give at ALL. Please do some math, and get familiar with how much force you can generate, even with short falls.

Stay safe!

 

[skyjacker]

Yep. It's upside down. Thanks for catching that.

 

[LateStart]

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I am a new saddle hunter and have a question, after reading your post and several others I decided to go with the OpLux and the bealjammy. I noticed in the beak jammy instructions it recommended only 2 turns of the Prussik for 8.0mm rope. Is there a reason to still go with 3?
Thanks

 

[dlist777]

I am a new saddle hunter and have a question, after reading your post and several others I decided to go with the OpLux and the bealjammy. I noticed in the beak jammy instructions it recommended only 2 turns of the Prussik for 8.0mm rope. Is there a reason to still go with 3?
Thanks

Isnt it telling you to do 3 with rope up to 8.1mm and then 2 thereafter? So 3 for 8mm?

I have always been told that the more loops, the better it will grab and the harder it will be to release. I've thought generally 3 loops were the min, so its interesting to see them recommend 2 with thicker ropes. Maybe it's just to leave enough room for the beaner and the sewn part to clear on thicker ropes?

Just a guess.....

 

[kyler1945]

I am a new saddle hunter and have a question, after reading your post and several others I decided to go with the OpLux and the bealjammy. I noticed in the beak jammy instructions it recommended only 2 turns of the Prussik for 8.0mm rope. Is there a reason to still go with 3?
Thanks

Friction hitches rely on friction to do their job. There are thousands of different rope/hitch combinations. It’s is your responsibility to find a combination that provides the friction needed to do the task you’re asking it to do. I found that the jammy in Prusik form with 3 turns on the oplux works pretty good, even better for me with four.

But to clarify on the instructions - they recommend 3 wraps on 8mm rope. And 2 above that. I suspect those are minimums. I would not trust a guy on the internet. Contact the manufacturer or a certified climbing instructor for these types of questions.

Don’t be afraid to call a manufacturer and ask questions. Your pride will kill you.

 

[bj139]

I am a new saddle hunter and have a question, after reading your post and several others I decided to go with the OpLux and the bealjammy. I noticed in the beak jammy instructions it recommended only 2 turns of the Prussik for 8.0mm rope. Is there a reason to still go with 3?
Thanks

I was one sticking in the park yesterday and my Beal jammy used with 4 turns on 8mm Beal dynamic rope was becoming crossed and I had to unload it excessively to move it. I am glad I was extra safe. I will revert to 3 turns. Thanks for posting.
Edit: I just changed it to a 3 turn and stood in the jammy loop from the 8mm rope and much easier to move after weighting. Thanks.

 

[LateStart]

Thank you all for the clarification and yes I misread. Just wanted to be sure I was making safe choices. I set up with 3 and it holds well.