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Need a vanes reccomendation

C

casts_by_fly

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2022
Messages
239
Location
NJ
Hi All,

Per the 'tinkering' thread, I'm playing with vanes a bit. I shot AAE Plastifletch 2.75" vanes the past two years as that's what the shop tuned my bow with. They have been good and I shoot them well. If I end up sticking with them I won't be put out. But I like to tinker and play and this is something easy enough to play with. I shot blazers in the past but I don't like them. That profile of vane isn't for me. I picked up some Tac drivers (2.7" I think) and I love the profile. The stiffness in up there. They seem to guide the arrow well (I still need to shoot them at distance) but they don't stick well enough (and its random when ones will stick and ones won't). I put them on TAC wraps but didn't use the primer on them. Unless I'm sold that a particular vane is the best thing since sliced bread, I'm not doing primer steps also. I've considered the AAE Max stealth, but they need a primer also.

What other 2.5-3.5" vanes are you using and like?

Thanks
Rick
 
I've had good luck out of bohning heat vanes with a slight left helical.

The bohning X3 vanes have peaked my interest a bit.

BT
 
casts_by_fly said:
no, just superglue in a fletching jig.
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I hate super glue. Dries ugly and hard to remove. If I use glue, it's fletch-tite platinum and even that stuff isn't as good as it used to be.

Tape works great with vanes and wraps. It's fast as well as somewhat correctable mid process.
 
I’m following this thread.

I have been shooting tall q2i’s and really like them but I am getting contact on my sight housing on long 3d shots (80yds+)

I’ve got a sample of aae hybrids that I want to try but am worried they may not stabilize fixed heads as well as the big q2i’s. I don’t want to go to 4 fletch.

Maybe I just need to bite the bullet and get a bow set up for targets and one for hunting…
 
The new AAE Airazr 2.5 is 7 grains and no prep. The new Slight Knight Pro 2.5 is 5.4 grains. Both are stiffer vanes.
 
DCA super sabers for the win. Kyle has put so much time and research into his design. I know he has done a ton of wind tunnel work also. Ive found that nothing works better with a fixed BH than his stuff.
 
I shot AAE Max Stealths for years. Their primer is NOT needed. All I ever did was wipe down the glue surface with an acetone-soaked Q-Tip before gluing. I never had one come off.
 
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I've wondered why the 3d guys don't use feathers. They can take contact without messing up the flight too bad, super light, and since there are few pass throughs on foam....they'd last.
 
kbetts said:
I've wondered why the 3d guys don't use feathers. They can take contact without messing up the flight too bad, super light, and since there are few pass throughs on foam....they'd last.
Click to expand...

I'd imagine speed loss. They are more resistive to air for sure.
 
casts_by_fly said:
I'd imagine speed loss. They are more resistive to air for sure.
Click to expand...

I'm thinking they're quicker due to lighter weight. I'm no physicist but drag could possibly play a part. Mother nature has a way of perfecting things. I've got some busted up feathers on some arrows and they still fly like darts. Any busted up vanes I have fly horrible.
 
Pretty sure I have seen blazer feathers..

A 5” trad cut traditional will have lots of drag and sound like a startled grouse.

Nothing wrong with vanes..
 
CZMark said:
I shot AAE Max Stealths for years. Their primer is NOT needed. All I ever did was wipe down the glue surface with an acetone-soaked Q-Tip before gluing. I never had one come off.
Click to expand...
This is what my arrow builder does as well, I’ve never had a game separate.
 
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