New Recurve Hunting Bow Arrow Selection

[gcr0003]

I just traded a hang-on stand for this Bear Grizzly RH #45 at 28”. I’m 6’2” and when I put a arrow to my chest and reach forward I’m at 29.5” (draw length). I think that would put me at a 30.5” arrow. I’m struggling on what to get for arrows for this bow. I tried to used 3 Rivers spline calculator but I’m not sure what arrows to use in it. I have some barely used 55/75 gold tips that the calculator matched up bow to arrow. They currently have vanes on them so I could try picking up a fletching jig and fletching feathers on them. If not I’d like to buy arrows that would shoot well out of this bow out of the box. What do y’all think?

I’m dying to shoot this bow. I tried some aluminum arrows that I used with my other recurve and they were kicking horribly.

Thanks

 

[ricky racer]

Strip the vanes off of one of your Gold Tips and do some bare shaft testing. That will let you do some shooting and if the bare shafts shoot pretty good, fletch it up and see how it flies.

 

[gcr0003]

Strip the vanes off of one of your Gold Tips and do some bare shaft testing. That will let you do some shooting and if the bare shafts shoot pretty good, fletch it up and see how it flies.

I am new to the traditional shelf shooting (came from compound, then a recurve with a compound riser). Is bare shaft testing similar to what you'd see with a compound? Could you elaborate on what to look for? My thought would be to see if the arrow is kicking out the way the aluminum ones were. I believe that would be an indication the arrow is too stiff for the set up.

Question, will increasing the tip weight increase the flex the arrows sees? For example: If I have a 340 spline arrow with a 100 grain field tip that is kicking out. Would adding a 200 grain insert up front and bumping up to a 165 grain field tip cause the arrow to load up and flex more. Meaning, be able to flex around the riser?

 

[Vtbow]

I am new to the traditional shelf shooting (came from compound, then a recurve with a compound riser). Is bare shaft testing similar to what you'd see with a compound? Could you elaborate on what to look for? My thought would be to see if the arrow is kicking out the way the aluminum ones were. I believe that would be an indication the arrow is too stiff for the set up.

Question, will increasing the tip weight increase the flex the arrows sees? For example: If I have a 340 spline arrow with a 100 grain field tip that is kicking out. Would adding a 200 grain insert up front and bumping up to a 165 grain field tip cause the arrow to load up and flex more. Meaning, be able to flex around the riser?

to a certain extent. Dont over think it. Your technique moving from a compound is going ot be your hardest factor in bareshafting and really reading the flight. Do what ricky said, if they are "good enough" fletch them up with some 5 inch parabolic and shoot them for a year then come back to tune again after some for practice. Or order some xx75 2016 aluminums, shoot 125 up front, and call it good--pretty sure those will fly good out of that bow..

 

[gcr0003]

to a certain extent. Dont over think it. Your technique moving from a compound is going ot be your hardest factor in bareshafting and really reading the flight. Do what ricky said, if they are "good enough" fletch them up with some 5 inch parabolic and shoot them for a year then come back to tune again after some for practice. Or order some xx75 2016 aluminums, shoot 125 up front, and call it good--pretty sure those will fly good out of that bow..

The XX75 Hunter camo aluminum 2016's are the aluminum arrows I attempted to shoot from this bow. I think the issue with them is that they are too short for my draw length. I think they are cut to 28.5 or something. What about technique affects the flight of the arrows when you are shooting off the shelf? I was shooting fairly accurate with the other recurve and decent with this bow minus the arrow kicking out to the left.

 

[gcr0003]

Very excited about this bow. I was told by a big time trad guy that the trad purists would not be a fan of the camo though. I like it well enough. A friend of mine wanted to buy it off me as soon as he saw it.

 

[Vtbow]

The XX75 Hunter camo aluminum 2016's are the aluminum arrows I attempted to shoot from this bow. I think the issue with them is that they are too short for my draw length. I think they are cut to 28.5 or something. What about technique affects the flight of the arrows when you are shooting off the shelf? I was shooting fairly accurate with the other recurve and decent with this bow minus the arrow kicking out to the left.

Well if you were shooting 2016 with VANES out of your other recurve, vanes shoot like crap off the shelf. Also without a fipper rest(not sure if you have a standard flipper, or button, or what on your other recurve) alignment can be more finicky, as the arrow is more likely be effected by archers paradox, and yes then spine will have more effect. IF those 2016 are cut to 29 or less, they're about 10# too heavy for your new bow.

 

[Vtbow]

Very cool grizzly by thenway, I dig the camo.

 

[gcr0003]

Well if you were shooting 2016 with VANES out of your other recurve, vanes shoot like crap off the shelf. Also without a fipper rest(not sure if you have a standard flipper, or button, or what on your other recurve) alignment can be more finicky, as the arrow is more likely be effected by archers paradox, and yes then spine will have more effect. IF those 2016 are cut to 29 or less, they're about 10# too heavy for your new bow.

The XX75's were feathered. Yea the Martin Jaguar had a rest that was centerline with the bow which was capable of shooting arrows with vanes. It made Archers Paradox irrelevant. I think Archers Paradox is critical with this off the shelf shooting. At least I think that is the current issue. That is why I am asking about spline. OH, the other issue with the Gold Tips 55/75's is that they are full length arrows. I'll probably still give them a whirl but I think they will need cut down.

 

[gcr0003]

 

[ricky racer]

Watch some Youtube video's on bare shaft tuning and just recurve tuning in general. The other recurve may have been cut more closer to or past center. That will effect arrow spine.

 

[ricky racer]

Typically if the arrows are kicking up and down, it's nocking position (too high or low). If the arrows are kicking right or left, it's arrow spine.

 

[gcr0003]

Maybe I have it backwards. From this video it appears that if the spine is too weak the arrow wont have enough stiffness to flex back to the left. This is essentially what the Aluminum arrows were doing.

 

[gcr0003]

Typically if the arrows are kicking up and down, it's nocking position (too high or low). If the arrows are kicking right or left, it's arrow spine.

Yea I thought it was a arrow spine issue. Though, I thought the aluminum was over-spined(too stiff), but the video above has me thinking they are under-spined(not stiff enough).

Thoughts?

 

[wayne r]

kicking horribly how?, be sure they are not clipping the shelf and giving a false reading of weak or stiff, do as vtbow says fletch some up and start shooting, when I started I bare shaft tuned started shooting and after a while my form got better my anchor changed for the better and I had to start all over again, just out of curiosity are you shooting split finger or 3 under?. Regards wayne

 

[gcr0003]

kicking horribly how?, be sure they are not clipping the shelf and giving a false reading of weak or stiff, do as vtbow says fletch some up and start shooting, when I started I bare shaft tuned started shooting and after a while my form got better my anchor changed for the better and I had to start all over again, just out of curiosity are you shooting split finger or 3 under?. Regards wayne

How can I insure they are not clipping the shelf? Which direction it the cock feather suppose to point, out away or in towards the gaurd. At 10 yards the arrows tips were angled in to the right (nock to the left) ~30-45 degrees when hitting the target. I shoot split.

 

[tyson12590]

In my opinion spine charts are close to useless for trad shooting. Bareshaft testing is the way to go. There are so many variables beyond just draw weight and draw length. Once you can get a bareshaft flying close to straight you will be golden with some feathers added. And yes added weight will weaken the spine while shortening the arrow will stiffen it. Good luck.

 

[gcr0003]

And yes added weight will weaken the spine while shortening the arrow will stiffen it. Good luck.

Concise. That's what I needed thanks.

 

[DanielB89]

personally, I wouldn't put too much stock in your bareshafting before you've established some form of consistent form. If I were you, I would buy some full length .500 spine arrows and shoot them. With your longer draw, I bet it'll be very close.

I am a black eagle dealer, if you're interested in some of those, let me know.

 

[wayne r]

How can I insure they are not clipping the shelf? Which direction it the cock feather suppose to point, out away or in towards the gaurd. At 10 yards the arrows tips were angled in to the right (nock to the left) ~30-45 degrees when hitting the target. I shoot split.

I shoot cock feather out but I have seen all different ways, shoot it for a while you will see rub marks on your shelf or a feather will wear,I had a terrible issue at first with this throwing my results once I got this sorted it was all good, part of my issue was a poor release, I am not saying you have this issue but it is something to check,before going through lots of arrows of different spines, I do agree though that carefully bare shafting is the way but in the beginning how do you know if it is your form or the arrow?, shoot it a short while with fletched feathers, once you feel you are ok get a critique of your form and then slowly tune your arrows for me I like about 10 grains per pound but not sure if you will hunt or just shoot targets,regards and good luck,wayne