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New Recurve Hunting Bow Arrow Selection

wayne r said:
I shoot cock feather out but I have seen all different ways, shoot it for a while you will see rub marks on your shelf or a feather will wear,I had a terrible issue at first with this throwing my results once I got this sorted it was all good, part of my issue was a poor release, I am not saying you have this issue but it is something to check,before going through lots of arrows of different spines, I do agree though that carefully bare shafting is the way but in the beginning how do you know if it is your form or the arrow?, shoot it a short while with fletched feathers, once you feel you are ok get a critique of your form and then slowly tune your arrows for me I like about 10 grains per pound but not sure if you will hunt or just shoot targets,regards and good luck,wayne
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I'll be target shooting for fun, but the end goal is hunting. I feel like I have decent form but I may be wrong. I might get a short video with the phone and post it here for critique. Thanks for the info.
 
DanielB89 said:
personally, I wouldn't put too much stock in your bareshafting before you've established some form of consistent form.

This is an important point. Having a relatively repeatable shot sequence is crucial before you begin tuning. If you are shooting 6 to 7 inch groups at 10 yards you are probably ready to do some bareshafting. Just be prepared to make changes later when your form improves. Just my 2cents.
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Again this probably isn't worth much, but with the other recurve where spine and shelf didnt really matter I was shooting 3 to 4 inch groups at 10 yards consistently.
 
gcr0003 said:
Again this probably isn't worth much, but with the other recurve where spine and shelf didnt really matter I was shooting 3 to 4 inch groups at 10 yards consistently.
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i'd encourage you to try at 20 before trying bareshaft. Even with poor arrow flight, you can be consistent. That doesn't mean you'll hit middle. But your misses will be consistent. I would encourage you to shoot at 20 until you can put most of them in a pie plate area while keeping track of your misses. For instance, just make mental note of how most of your misses are. If they're right or left, low or high. Try to see where you're missing the most consistently, that'll likely give you a small insight as to what you're current spine problems are. But, if you're not consistent, I wouldn't worry with bareshafting.

Traditional archery is as fun of a game as there is, but it can be so frustrating at times.
 
DanielB89 said:
i'd encourage you to try at 20 before trying bareshaft. Even with poor arrow flight, you can be consistent. That doesn't mean you'll hit middle. But your misses will be consistent. I would encourage you to shoot at 20 until you can put most of them in a pie plate area while keeping track of your misses. For instance, just make mental note of how most of your misses are. If they're right or left, low or high. Try to see where you're missing the most consistently, that'll likely give you a small insight as to what you're current spine problems are. But, if you're not consistent, I wouldn't worry with bareshafting.

Traditional archery is as fun of a game as there is, but it can be so frustrating at times.
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I’ll try it all at least once. Thanks for all the ideas fellas. I’m really just looking for something to get me going with this bow. It doesn’t have to be perfect. Everything is subject to change.
 
So I shot the bare shaft 55/77s and the shots were consistently angle in to the left. From what I understand, these arrows are over spined for this bow and it would only hurt them more to be shortened. I do plan to increase the weight of the arrows I use for penetration anyway so I’ll likely put some 200 grain inserts in and see if it won’t straighten em up a little bit. The angle isn’t but about 15 degrees.
 
Shoot a bareshaft and a fletched shaft. Nick orientation can be affected by many things. Google acs bareshaft tuning.
 
Marc W said:
Shoot a bareshaft and a fletched shaft. Nick orientation can be affected by many things. Google acs bareshaft tuning.
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Bare shaft tuning is the method that I am using, thanks for the suggestion.

Has anyone used the gold-tip screw in weights? I'm thinking of trying them out on these 55/75 arrows before doing any cutting. If they improve the arrow flight for what I need then I'll just go to heavier inserts instead of the screw on weights for the official build.
 
Get a field point test kit from three rivers. Then go from there. I ordered 200 grain grizzlies for this year but think I’ll just go with heavier inserts and a standard weight head in the future.
 
EricS said:
Get a field point test kit from three rivers. Then go from there. I ordered 200 grain grizzlies for this year but think I’ll just go with heavier inserts and a standard weight head in the future.
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I likely will. I am simply trying use some arrows that I have at the house before that.
 
gcr0003 said:
I likely will. I am simply trying use some arrows that I have at the house before that.
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Is there a club near us that do traditional? I looked and did not find any. I'm interested in getting in the traditional market. I got great advice on this site, but hands on with equipment would be an advantage. Or if you perfect it you can assist me.
 
Kenbama said:
Is there a club near us that do traditional? I looked and did not find any. I'm interested in getting in the traditional market. I got great advice on this site, but hands on with equipment would be an advantage. Or if you perfect it you can assist me.
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I think there is a traditional bowhunters of Alabama club or something. I’ve been told to join it but I just haven’t yet. It’s not super difficult I’m just being cheap and trying to reuse old stuff. I’ll buy arrows this week.
 
gcr0003 said:
Very excited about this bow. I was told by a big time trad guy that the trad purists would not be a fan of the camo though. I like it well enough. A friend of mine wanted to buy it off me as soon as he saw it.
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The big time trad purists can suck it. Those same purists wear camo clothing. Your camo bow is awesome. Shoot it with pride.
 
I have used the gold tip FACT weight system. It is very helpful for adding weight and changing the tune. I use a modified metal coat hanger to slide the weights down from the nock end and screw them into the back of the insert. It works pretty slick. One thing to keep in mind is that those weights will not weaken the shaft as much as you might think because they are also shortening the portion of the arrow that can flex which is a similar affect to cutting your arrow shorter. Adding tip weight is a better way to weaken the shaft rather than insert weight, but both can be used. I hope that makes sense and let me know if you have any more questions about that weight system.
 
Oh so those connect from inside the shaft on the back side of the arrow? I had no clue.

tyson12590 said:
I have used the gold tip FACT weight system. It is very helpful for adding weight and changing the tune. I use a modified metal coat hanger to slide the weights down from the nock end and screw them into the back of the insert. It works pretty slick. One thing to keep in mind is that those weights will not weaken the shaft as much as you might think because they are also shortening the portion of the arrow that can flex which is a similar affect to cutting your arrow shorter. Adding tip weight is a better way to weaken the shaft rather than insert weight, but both can be used. I hope that makes sense and let me know if you have any more questions about that weight system.
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Yes. The system has 11, 50 and 100 grain inserts all with a screw in holes in the back. They sell 10, 20 and 50 grains weights that you can add in after you have glued your inserts in. Here is a video that explains it. It is kind of a pricey system but it is nice for tweaking arrow tune, FOC and weight.
 
tyson12590 said:
Yes. The system has 11, 50 and 100 grain inserts all with a screw in holes in the back. They sell 10, 20 and 50 grains weights that you can add in after you have glued your inserts in. Here is a video that explains it. It is kind of a pricey system but it is nice for tweaking arrow tune, FOC and weight.
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Most of what he says about FOC in that video is concerning compound shooting and not applicable to traditional archery. The part of the video that is helpful is when he shows how the FACT weight system works.
 
DanielB89 said:
personally, I wouldn't put too much stock in your bareshafting before you've established some form of consistent form. If I were you, I would buy some full length .500 spine arrows and shoot them. With your longer draw, I bet it'll be very close.

I am a black eagle dealer, if you're interested in some of those, let me know.
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This right here, if you don't have consistent mechanics and release you are gonna be tossing arrows around everywhere. An improper release can cause arrows to fishtail like crazy.

Check out Tom Clum's "Solid Archery Mechanics" it's well worth the cost of admission!
 
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