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New Thunderchild - arrows?

T

tmattson

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2019
Messages
1,088
Location
South East Michigan
Have a new BigJim Thunderchild, 56 inch, 50# @ 28. Thinking of trying aluminum arrows to start, instead of the Victory Carbon Trads I use with my Sage LB. Plan to keep at full length, standard inserts and 125 grain tip, cut down if needed. If you have a similar setup and flinging aluminums, what do you use? I Fletch my own, so thinking I can find some aluminums at lower costs, in case I don't like and go back to carbon.
 
We need to know your draw length, draw weight at draw length, and center cut of the bow. Without that information it is just a WAG.

Let's assume 50#@28" draw length and cut to center. With a 125 grain tip, which is old-school typical weight head (not saying there is anything wrong with that, it is just on the light side for my taste using traditional gear.) I would likely recommend a Gamegetter 500 cut to around 30"-30.5". If that bow has a different center cut (ie past or before center) then that just throws everything I said out the window. Same goes for your personal draw length. And I'm not talking standing in your livingroom drawing a bow back to a comfortable anchor when you know you are not going to release that arrow. I'm talking your actual draw length (I say it this way because I think a lot of trad archers exaggerate their draw length when in reality they short draw/ snap shoot/ or some other variation where they never reach anchor).

That still only gets you around 490 grains with a fletched arrow. That's fine and will kill a whitetail. For reference I'm shooting a 42#@29" Omega Native with a GT Trad 500 cut to 30" back of point to throat of nock with a 50 grain brass insert and a 150 grain field point and I'm getting slightly weak bare shaft flight. My Native is cut 1/16" before center when I account for a very thin piece of velcro. My total arrow weight is 490 grains. That's 12 grains per pound vs 9 gpp
 
To verify my "real draw", I use a full length arrow, poke a small hole in a card, and draw like I am going to shoot, then measure from Nick throat to point of card on arrow. Suppose it may be better to have someone watch and mark the arrow with a marker at outside part of riser.
 
You will probably be very close with a 2016/gamegetter 500 cut to 30-30.5”. If you leave shafts full length or anything 31” or longer you’ll need to spine up.
 
tmattson said:
To verify my "real draw", I use a full length arrow, poke a small hole in a card, and draw like I am going to shoot, then measure from Nick throat to point of card on arrow. Suppose it may be better to have someone watch and mark the arrow with a marker at outside part of riser.
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Try closing your eyes and draw back and see if you get to your anchor and try it with heavier clothes because sometimes with the angles we have while in saddle are different from regular tree stands. Aluminums are a great hunting arrow 2016 are good shafts but I tend to gravitate to a 2018 shaft with at least 175 out of my 50+# bows I find the 2016 are just to light and personally I cut my shafts so they are sticking 1/2” to 3/4” past my riser to get a more consistent draw and I draw 27 .25” (it depends on what outsert or carbon shaft I use for a particular bow)
 
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