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Old Bow Re-finish

gcr0003

gcr0003

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2018
Messages
8,104
I have an old Wing Archery Red Wing Hunter Recurve that I’ve been shooting for about a year. The finish(not the limb itself) is cracked and yellowed on the limbs. I’m going to refinish it. I’m just debating on what to finish it with. I watched several videos with several options for finishing it. I would like to keep the original look of the bow some I’m wanting to go with a clear finish. The original finish was pretty shiny and semi glossy which I wouldn’t prefer for a hunting bow. Should I stick with a polyurethane, boiled linseed oil, or something else like try-oil gun stock finish? What has and hasn’t worked for y’all? Thanks!
 
I'd use a poly personally. I did some custom wood furniture for a while when I was a kid and poly seemed to make things pretty while being reasonably durable.
 
Nutterbuster said:
I refinished a few back in college. I just sanded through the old finish until I got past the cracks or yellowing and then hit it with a wipe-on poly.

If you want it to just be a hunting bow, sand that puppy down and sponge camo it!
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I want to keep the original look too otherwise I’d consider just hitting it with the camo job. I have wipe on poly and boiled line seed oil so I’ll likely use one of those since I already have it on hand. Thanks for the reply.
 
gcr0003 said:
I want to keep the original look too otherwise I’d consider just hitting it with the camo job. I have wipe on poly and boiled line seed oil so I’ll likely use one of those since I already have it on hand. Thanks for the reply.
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Yeah out of those two I'd definitely go with the poly. With the oil you'd need to sand ALL the old finish off to get to wood, and by the time you did that you'd get to the fiberglass too and I don't think an oil will do well on fiberglass.
 
My father has always used Spar Urethane on his bows. I believe the reason is it's supposed to be a little more waterproof and a little more pliable then poly. I have read on forums about other bowyers that use Spar instead of poly also. No experience myself other than shooting them after they are finished.
 
You could lightly stain the limbs black and let dry then do a Massie finish which is superglu and acetone and once the finish is dry it is rock solid. I have it on several bows and knife handles that are over 20 years old and never once had to refinish sadly I given the bows away but from what I know they are still in use and never a issue with peeling or yellowing. It does have a slightly glossy finish but mutes down in time and finish is hard
 
GCTerpfan said:
My father has always used Spar Urethane on his bows. I believe the reason is it's supposed to be a little more waterproof and a little more pliable then poly. I have read on forums about other bowyers that use Spar instead of poly also. No experience myself other than shooting them after they are finished.
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Spar varnish or spar urethane? Spar varnish should flex more and has uv inhibitors. Spar urethane i think just has uv blockers. But from what I gather there's a lot of variables between brands and some of the terms are more marketing than anything
 
Nutterbuster said:
Spar varnish or spar urethane? Spar varnish should flex more and has uv inhibitors. Spar urethane i think just has uv blockers. But from what I gather there's a lot of variables between brands and some of the terms are more marketing than anything
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I'm pretty sure it's spar urethane. You made me curious so a quick Google search turned up the below article that mentions spar is "softer and more pliable" but, says both are flexible. Not sure, I believe he mainly uses it because that's what Mike Fedora who taught him used.

repaintnow.com

Spar Urethane vs. Polyurethane: What's Better for My Project?

Confused between spar urethane and polyurethane? Check the pros and cons of both along with basic differences so that you pick the right one for your project.
repaintnow.com repaintnow.com
 
GCTerpfan said:
I'm pretty sure it's spar urethane. You made me curious so a quick Google search turned up the below article that mentions spar is "softer and more pliable" but, says both are flexible. Not sure, I believe he mainly uses it because that's what Mike Fedora who taught him used.

repaintnow.com

Spar Urethane vs. Polyurethane: What's Better for My Project?

Confused between spar urethane and polyurethane? Check the pros and cons of both along with basic differences so that you pick the right one for your project.
repaintnow.com repaintnow.com
Click to expand...
Well it does seem like the spar is more geared towards outdoor use so I’m debating on going and getting a small thing of it. Dang you for being helpful, now I gotta go back up to ace hardware haha. Thanks!
 
gcr0003 said:
Well it does seem like the spar is more geared towards outdoor use so I’m debating on going and getting a small thing of it. Dang you for being helpful, now I gotta go back up to ace hardware haha. Thanks!
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Can't speak to urethane but if you get Spar varnish definitely cut it 50/50 with mineral spirits. Stuff goes on goopy.

But, poly would protect your bow just fine. Spar varnish or stuff like teak oil is for permanent outdoor use. Your bow isnt going to sit on a deck or in a dock 365 days a year.
 
Nutterbuster said:
Can't speak to urethane but if you get Spar varnish definitely cut it 50/50 with mineral spirits. Stuff goes on goopy.

But, poly would protect your bow just fine. Spar varnish or stuff like teak oil is for permanent outdoor use. Your bow isnt going to sit on a deck or in a dock 365 days a year.
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Dang true
 
gcr0003 said:
I’m lazy and cheap so I just used what I had, it’ll have a little gloss to it but oh well…View attachment 49289
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Exact stuff I used to use. I refurbished several with it. Also used to straighten warped limbs by heating them with a boiled towel and bumping them back straight a little at a time. Make a new string and bam, $40 ebay bow is back in action.
 
I used to use Spar urethane on hard wood arrows and it held up fine. I’d get a little target burn on foam and it would wear on bag targets but I could just apply a little and go. I have used it with no problems on a few bows I have refinished. It was the mainstay for a couple bowyers I know until they went to epoxy.

A few years back I tried marine grade tung oil on some arrows with excellent results. It was a company out of Cleveland that made it and they sent me a bunch of trial packets of different grades. I wouldn’t use the box store stuff because of the low amount of oil in their product.
 
I have no knowledge of finishing bows but if I need to protect wood or speed up the "work hardening" like on hammer, shovel, or any other wooden handled tool or a wooden work bench top I use linseed oil. Slightly darkens the wood and needs reapplication much more than polyurethane but no chemicals in the higher grade oil, the wood has a softer feel in ur hand, and penetrates the grain deeper than polyurethane....more of a satin matte finish
 
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