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Oplux with sewn eye

Zero One Actual

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Dec 8, 2020
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www.arbsession.com can do it. And they even test the breaking strength of the eye for you so you have that data. They are making some for me right now. They probably carry the rope you want and if not, buy it wherever and send it to them.

 

sad_story

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Oct 17, 2018
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Been away from the boards for a while - oplux is now splice-able?


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Fl Canopy Stalker

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Any recommendations on where to buy 30' sterling oplux w/ sewn eye?
I agree with the comment below, having a sewn eye put into a rope smaller than 10mm requires thinner thread (usually 277) which weakens the rope by 18% or more (usually 20%). Oplux is rated for around 5400 lbs so being conservative, a sewn eye would have around 4400 lbs give or take. That is plenty strong, just not the 5000 lbs rating that ANSI usually requires for elevated work lanyards and ropes. It costs $15-25 dollars for a sewn eye and you lose 20%. On a 8mm rope the length of the splice will end up taking up as much space as a figure 8 on a bight. Tying a figure 8 usually retains 30% of the ropes strength which is still close to 4000 lbs and it costs $0 to tie it. If I were using oplux for rappelling, and having to pay nearly $2 a foot for a rope that is weaker than a polyester 10mm or 11mm, I honestly would just tie the knot. Now if you were using 10mm or 11mm htp, a sewn termination would be worth it.
 
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Brocky

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Been away from the boards for a while - oplux is now splice-able?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Yes, got good results with Samson’s Class II straight bury on the Oplux, hardest part was whipping the cover down in as short of space as possible and not bulge on one side. Got it better figured out on the C-IV and FireTech 32. Also shown how Sterling sews their 6mm cord.
41E6B762-55E3-423D-9E7E-2AD13D6A2054.jpeg
ANSI recommends 5400 break strength for textiles and 23 kN for hardware.
I think @Fl Canopy Stalker meant there would be 70% remaining strength for a fig 8 on a bight?
 

SnakeEater

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Jan 12, 2020
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I got 35’ of Oplux last year with a sewn eye from knot and rope. Cost wasn’t worth it, the plastic sleeve that goes over the sewn threads had a tendency to slide off of the sewn eye stitching. That bothered me for about half the season last year until I just cut it off and tied directly to my link with a halyard hitch. Much more confident this way, the exposed threads always bothered me because the constantly rubbed against the tree.
 

Brocky

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Too late, but might help someone else, a hair dryer on high, or a heat gun on low, even direct flame would have probably shrunk the tubing more. Most use a type that has glue to hold it in place, maybe k&r didn’t heat it long enough to active the glue.
 

Fl Canopy Stalker

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Yes, got good results with Samson’s Class II straight bury on the Oplux, hardest part was whipping the cover down in as short of space as possible and not bulge on one side. Got it better figured out on the C-IV and FireTech 32. Also shown how Sterling sews their 6mm cord.
View attachment 47507
ANSI recommends 5400 break strength for textiles and 23 kN for hardware.
I think @Fl Canopy Stalker meant there would be 70% remaining strength for a fig 8 on a bight?
Yes I referring to losing 30% of the strength which would leave the rope at 70% at the knot which is still plenty strong for most applications
 
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SnakeEater

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Too late, but might help someone else, a hair dryer on high, or a heat gun on low, even direct flame would have probably shrunk the tubing more. Most use a type that has glue to hold it in place, maybe k&r didn’t heat it long enough to active the glue.
I actually tried that but no success. They custom ordered from sterling direct so it was done at the manufacturer. After that didn’t work I even put shrink tubing on the outside of theirs and it still worked itself loose. I one sticker all season so it got a lot of use and movement on the tree.
 

Fl Canopy Stalker

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Feb 4, 2021
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Too late, but might help someone else, a hair dryer on high, or a heat gun on low, even direct flame would have probably shrunk the tubing more. Most use a type that has glue to hold it in place, maybe k&r didn’t heat it long enough to active the glue.
Most of the clear ones do not contain the glue because it makes the tubing too stiff. The problem is 8mm is like an in between size rope so it’s hard to get the perfect fit on heat shrink. A lot of the black “heavy duty” heat shrink contain glue. They keep it in place but getting it to bend after it cures, almost takes an act of God
 
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wingnut

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Jan 28, 2021
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I'm having the same problem with my Oplux tether and linemans rope from Knot and rope. Mine were sewn by a company named Height. Thinking a whip finish would be better to protect the threads.
 

SnakeEater

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Good information, sounds like knot and rope should be made aware of the problem.
Knot and rope, at least in my case, custom ordered from sterling directly. So the sewn eye came directly from the manufacture. Even if you did let them this, they may disregard it because I’m not sure saddle hunting is under their list of uses.
 
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EddieK

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Sep 9, 2016
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Yes, got good results with Samson’s Class II straight bury on the Oplux, hardest part was whipping the cover down in as short of space as possible and not bulge on one side. Got it better figured out on the C-IV and FireTech 32. Also shown how Sterling sews their 6mm cord.
View attachment 47507
ANSI recommends 5400 break strength for textiles and 23 kN for hardware.
I think @Fl Canopy Stalker meant there would be 70% remaining strength for a fig 8 on a bight?
Brocky, have you had any of these load tested? They look like very good work, clean and compact! Do you by chance have a vid on making the Oplux bury splice?