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Perfect tree for a saddle

Lowg08

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2019
Messages
803
Ok. So this will be my first year out of a saddle like said before. I my scouting I’ve been looking for ideal trees for a set up. I’m thinking a tree with more limbs about basketball size would be ideal but I could be wrong. What is the preferred tree for a set up. Going with sticks and a predator platform. Want to be within 40 yards and I hunt close to bedding. In the mountains
 
General rule of thumb that most people use is basketball size diameter. Personally, I find I can setup in somewhat larger trees, but I have to be able to easily touch my hands together around the tree.

Limbs make for better concealment, but complicate the climb. I usually look for trees with no or few limbs that will be in the way, but with adjacent trees that have limbs that will break up my outline when I'm setup at my desired height.

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Take your gear with you while you are scouting. Try climbing all kinds of trees and see what works best for you. I climb on bolts and will use the limbs when I can instead of drilling more bolts. You will gain a lot more knowledge from actually psuedo hunting than people online trying to describe the right tree. Besides tulip poplars, no 2 trees are the same. I killed 5 deer last year out of trees that were not even 6 inches in diameter.
 
This will be my first year also. I wanted to try saddle hunting not for less weight or run and gun but for not having to have the perfect tree. I hate having to move to a tree because I can't find a tree to get a climber in. I'm hoping the saddle will give me more choices to get where I want.

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Thank you for the idea. I’ll haul my stuff with me Friday and try out trees. Trying to get in and out and approach with the appropriate wind to the best tree could be irritating
 
Don't worry about wind, approach, or any of that stuff. Just climb! Figure it out.
Rick, that is the whole reason I got into it. I lost my wooded area and only had small tiny trees to hunt out of that surround tobacco fields. Nothing I could even put a ladder stand on.
 
Inhad the hardest time picking trees after switching from a climber to a saddle. I kept picking trees that had good cover and shot lanes for facing away from the tree (great for a climber not so much for saddle). Now I just find where I want to be able to shoot to and find a tree I can hide behind in my saddle if that makes sense. I haven't found a tree (if its big enough to be in) that I couldnt climb if I wanted to. Just more limbs and time to get in it. My favorite are trees with limbs beneath me or a set of triple trees growing together and hang in the middle of them.
 
I also found that I love Holly trees this year. Lots of limbs, keeps there "leaves" all winter and usually have lots of back cover.
 
In the same boat as you guys. I've been taking my gear with me turkey hunting and when I'm done I go and climb a few trees. The first time I climbed I felt really defeated but each time is SO MUCH easier and smoother. Been using Beast Sticks and WE steps. So far the Beast Sticks are AWESOME! Like you said I got tired of not being exactly where I wanted to be because of my climber. Opens up a lot of new opportunities!
 
I would work the problem the other way. Find the spot first. Once you have that, work out how to make the best available tree work. Saddles provide a lot of flexibility. Many tree shapes can work, and I don't spend a lot of time worrying about that part. I do pre-climb on any locations that I take seriously so that I can optimize my climb and setup in that location.
 
A telephone pole would be perfect but they don't tend to grow that way. :mask:
Pine trees tend to grow that way and I hate hunting them. Personally I like white oaks with a slight lean or some type of offset with other trees in the back ground to help break up silhouette. Oh and a good size branch between 25 and 35 foot high since I usually climb MRS.
 
I’m just trying to find trees that work in my spots. Ill sit on the ground if I have to. I’d rather have a good spot than a good tree. Just getting an idea what to look for
 
Beauty of saddle hunting is being able to make so many trees work if you have limited options. That being said, if I have my pick of multiple trees that work I generally try for a little bigger than a basketball. A few branches aren't too big of a deal for the climb but have to make sure to be positioned right so you still have plenty of shot opportunity.
 
As others have said, I’m more worried about the spot than the tree. With a saddle you can make almost any tree work. I’ve killed deer from 30 ft up big oaks all the way down to 10 ft up a 5” sapling. That’s beauty of saddles.
 
Realistically you cannot be too picky on a set tree. Saddle hunting is designed around being mobile for a reason. For example, I try to sit hard woods with a good back drop to break up my outline. I hate sitting pines due to sap and noise. BUT, last year, the only tree available for my set up which would put me into position to kill the buck that I did, was a 6" round runny white pine. When I was at hunting height the tree would shake and flex, not to mention bleed sap like crazy. I closed the deal Nov 6th and was holding the 131" ten pointer I was after. Use your equipment to close the deal. Find what works for the scenario and get your practice in. Conditions, more often than not, will not be in your favor.

Scenario #2. My 7 point with my bow during early season. I had a tree picked out, went in and climbed, hated it. Climbed two more, hated them. Finally settled on the 4th tree with 2 hours left and scent everywhere. Played the wind, had minimal shooting lanes and was very uncomfortable. Faith was at an all time low. I knew what the buck had been doing, set up, killed him an hour into my sit. I was in a skinny maple with a very uncomfortable lean and limbs in not so good places.

Hope this helps.
 
Thanks for all the info. It does help. I am very excited about this season. I have two nice deer found. Gladly there are enough trees for the wind and cover
 
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