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Powder coated Predator

Reedler

Reedler

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2020
Messages
294
Location
SWVA
Anyone have their predator coated by Matt at OOAL?
Been trying to decide between just painting it or having it powder coated.


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I say rattle can it so when it does and will get chips, you can rattle can it again or leave it as is. Figure this way your less likely to worry about any nicks / scraps which are bound and less likely to get upset when it does happen knowing you didn't dish out lots of money. Just my 2 cents on the matter.
 
NikoTheBowHunter said:
I say rattle can it so when it does and will get chips, you can rattle can it again or leave it as is. Figure this way your less likely to worry about any nicks / scraps which are bound and less likely to get upset when it does happen knowing you didn't dish out lots of money. Just my 2 cents on the matter.
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That’s a good point. I hadn’t really thought about it that way.


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Not sure how close you are to Pearisville but I just bought a bow that had the riser powder coated from a company there and it looks great. If close enough it would probably be a lot cheaper than shipping it off.
 
Reedler said:
That’s a good point. I hadn’t really thought about it that way.
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I rattle caned both my climbing stick and predator platform before last season and after the season they both look like they been through hell and back. I had originally thought about getting them hydro dipped to match my Badlands camo but so glad I didn't after seeing what they looked like at the end of the season.
 
I don't see any "real" reason to paint a Predator platform. I suppose the only "real" reason is just because you want to. If a deer would happen to see your platform, it won't be the platform that scares him, it will be the monkey standing on it. The monkey will likely be wearing dark colored camo and look like a huge blob on the tree.
 
The treesuit comes powder coated and it is shiny. Many thin layers of Duplicolor spray on bedliner is very durable and you could do a sponge camo job on top of it that would stick well.
 
Check out VHT wrinkle black/plus, it gives a really durable professional finish and comes in a can. Surface prep is critical though. It can be found at auto parts stores. A heat gun is handy to have, or a wife that doesn't care about the kitchen smelling for a hour or so after baking your parts. I suppose grit or sand could be dusted on the surface between coats too for flat areas that need non-skid.
 
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Jtaylor said:
Check out VHT wrinkle black/plus, it gives a really durable professional finish and comes in a can. Surface prep is critical though. It can be found at auto parts stores. A heat gun is handy to have, or a wife that doesn't care about the kitchen smelling for a hour or so after baking your parts. I suppose grit or sand could be dusted on the surface between coats too for flat areas that need non-skid.
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With an aluminum platform, would you recommend an acid etching primer under this?
 
NikoTheBowHunter said:
I rattle caned both my climbing stick and predator platform before last season and after the season they both look like they been through hell and back. I had originally thought about getting them hydro dipped to match my Badlands camo but so glad I didn't after seeing what they looked like at the end of the season.
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2 words to fix that problem, Clear Coat. Then clear coat. Then clear coat one more time. That’s why vehicles don’t look like that with all the abuse their paint jobs take. On something the size of a predator platform I’ll use the whole can in multiple coats the first time. If it looks like it has any wear marks or an other issues after the season, I’ll hit it with another clear coat. None of my stuff that I have painted has any scratches or scuffs from going through brush. I have a duracoated glock that fell off a truck and got ran over that has some scuffs, but nothing from normal use.
 
raisins said:
With an aluminum platform, would you recommend an acid etching primer under this?
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No primer. I guess I should say I've never used primer with it but VHT does make a specific primer for it apparently. It does need heat and a very clean surface though with no oil, residue, dirt, etc. I usually clean with acetone, scuff the surface, clean again with acetone put on 3 coats and throw in the oven or run a heat gun over it until the wrinkles appear then let it fully cure for a couple days. I've used it on aluminum motorcycle engine cases and it holds up really well.
 
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Getting OOAL to coat would be sweet. You would have to disassemble it and pay $25 plus shipping to and from. But it would be awesome!

If you rattle can it clean it good. Get all the oil and grit off if there is any, primer it with a good zinc chromate primer, do your camo and clear it. Problem is you will lose all the traction on the platform it will be slick. Spray with a clear traction spray like the krylon stuff.
 
When I got my OOAL solo scout the first thing I thought of was the VHT wrinkle finish, it looks almost exactly the same. If a person had A LOT of parts they wanted to do an epoxy coating such as this one: https://linerxtreeme.com/shop/ would be the way to go. I did a whole pickup in it and a motorcycle tank/fenders. There's rubber grit mixed in that would create traction along with the added benefit of sound deadening and it goes on with a cheapo HVLP texture gun.
 
I've seen some awesome paint jobs. I personally just hit mine with a grey and a few lines of black on the bottom, sides, and post. If deer see the top your probably hunting a little low, LOL. I'm happy with it.
 
Powder coated all day. Predator is slick in the rain. Not anymore.
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Ontariofarmer said:
Is it much quieter


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This powder coat makes everything more quiet. It has anti-skid in it and it's a little rubberized. It's also durable. I haven't seen the coating come off any of the OOAL products. Can't say the same about the LWCG rubberized coating. That crap started pealing off in less than a months worth of use.
 
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