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prussic KN?

You all have to remember that when you are climbing trad on an 8mm rope, you are tied in to the sharp end. You aren't relying on a friction hitch or a device that's attached to the rope. You are attached to the rope.
As to canyoneering, you aren't tying into the sharp end, you are using a device (and a backup hitch) attached to the rope to create friction and slow your descent. But that rope isn't meant to be used as a fall arrest without a device (and a friction hitch backup) that will have slip to it to absorb the force of your descent. This is why canyoneering rope usually has more than 50% of it's weight in the sheath, so it can stand up to that repeated friction. Dynamic climbing rope only has something like 30% of it's weight in the sheath.
And yes, we need to be careful with our ropes. I remember the absolute uproar that would ensue if you accidentally stepped on a rope while it was on the ground when rock climbing. You'd be lucky if you didn't get booted from the group.
 
The load is attached to the carabiner (or block) and that is what give the mechanical advantage. In a traditional block and tackle system for lifting the block that the load is attached to is acting in the same fashion as the carabiner. The upper pulley in a block an tackle system only changes the direction of the pull, so your pulling down instead of pulling the block up.
I kinda realized that when I posted again.
 
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