I was only reliading a couple diff calibers and maybe 300 or so a year on single stage- seemed sufficient. My question is where is everyone finding large rifle primers??? Only seen couple places and those were at such a premium that it'd cost me significantly more than good factory loads to build.
I found some CCI large rifle at Dunham's. 9.99/100 which is a bit dear, but I still grabbed the last 3 they had in stock. Primed up a bunch of .444 and some .308.I was only reliading a couple diff calibers and maybe 300 or so a year on single stage- seemed sufficient. My question is where is everyone finding large rifle primers??? Only seen couple places and those were at such a premium that it'd cost me significantly more than good factory loads to build.
You’ll be surprised how many primers and how much powder you use up doing load development. 100 rounds is nothing when you are trying to squeeze out everything a particular combo has. Then when you get that you change bullets and start all over lol. It never stops.Funny, you should ask. Up until buying the 4570 and deciding to reload, everything else I do is either small rifle or small pistol. Yesterday, I just so happened to look online at Sportsmans warehouse. The brand new one that opened up near where I live Has them in stock for local sale. They sell them in the 100 packs for $5.99 each with a limit of two. So far I have acquired 400 large rifle primers. I will stop back in this weekend and see if they still have more and try to get some more packs, unless I acquire another firearm, I can’t imagine that I will need any more than 800 to 1000 large rifle primers in my lifetime.
Semper Fi,
Mike
I do all my loading on a single stage. Decap clean size handprime then load. I don’t run dirty brass on my sizing dies. I ultrasonic clean it first. The meticulousness of single stage is what I actually like about it.
Or you finally get a load you love and they discontinue or redesign your bullet and you have tonstart from scratch. Or buy bullets by the 1k from the outset. Or just get into casting so you're protected from these issues... and if you get into casting you're likey to start making your own bullet lube, or chasing the perfect way to powdercoat so you might as well retire early so you have time to do all that.. Then when you get that you change bullets and start all over lol. It never stops.
I started with Lee trimmers and they're convenient but unfortunately inconsistent. I made some adapters to run them on my RCBS prep station which I can take some pictures of. I've since accumulated RCBS and Forster lathe-type trimmers. I like the Forster better as it has a better selection of collets, pilots, and reamers, and the RCBS collet is awkward.Ya know …. When I started using the progressive, I had this feeling that it doesn’t readily lend itself to the meticulousness that can be more easily had with a single stage. I ordered the FA F1 and it arrived the other day. Haven’t had a chance to inbox it yet.
Next question….. so for trimming straight walled cartridges, I can think of any way to do that with the FA Case Prep Station. It uses collets for the bottle neck cartridges. Is there a bushing available for it, or do I just need to get a hand crank style and do it that way?
Semper Fi,
Mike
I use a LE Wilson stainless with micro adjust. I just looked and they do make a 45-70 case holder. I know mine will trim within ten thousandths every case that goes in it. Very consistentI started with Lee trimmers and they're convenient but unfortunately inconsistent. I made some adapters to run them on my RCBS prep station which I can take some pictures of. I've since accumulated RCBS and Forster lathe-type trimmers. I like the Forster better as it has a better selection of collets, pilots, and reamers, and the RCBS collet is awkward.
I've been using the RCBS trimmer for over 20 years, and yes, it's awkward.I started with Lee trimmers and they're convenient but unfortunately inconsistent. I made some adapters to run them on my RCBS prep station which I can take some pictures of. I've since accumulated RCBS and Forster lathe-type trimmers. I like the Forster better as it has a better selection of collets, pilots, and reamers, and the RCBS collet is awkward.
So hey …. Powder throws. I bought a Frankford Arsenal bench top throw. I’m returning it. Went through the setup /seasoning cycle and out of 25 throws my low was 42.7 and the high was 52.1 and everyone on between was grossly inaccurate with IMR4198 (Brownells has it in stock). My Dillon powder throw on my 750 does great with stick powders, and this is my first experience with a hand operated powder throw. Considering how this one works, should I expect that other similar powder throws will be difficult and inaccurate? What about the electronic throws that dispense a precise charge? Are they really that good that they’re worth it?
I trickle charge every case. I set my dump to be shy and come up slow. The factory Lee works just fine how I use it
Almost 10 grains! That's insane...frankly it's insane to the point that I'd be checking the scale with test weights to make sure it's working properly first. The measure may actually be that bad but it's so far out there that it leads me to think that something with the measure or scale is broken/malfunctioning. To give you an idea, I use a Harrells and a Lee powder measure (better for difficult stick powders IMO), accuracy is usually within a tenth of a grain +/- with the Harrells, a little more with the Lee. To put that in perspective, it's changing a little now but historically short range benchrest shooters (100/200 yards) have always loaded at the range using thrown (unweighed) powder charges. If it's good enough for full tilt BR rigs, it's fine for hunting rifles.
The podcasts were a little controversial when they came out but I personally put almost 500 rounds down range to replicate some of the tests they were doing. Obviously unscientific, it was just for my own edification, but my takeaway was that unless I ever get into 1000 yrd benchrest shooting, I'll never trickle up a charge again. Throw and go baby
The scale I’m using to verify is my Dillon D-Terminator. Has always been very consistent when setting up my XL 750 for powder dispensing through the dies
FWIW, on several throw attempts with the FA Benchtop unit, nothing came out. It would take 3-4 movements of the handle to get it to dispense any powder. I should have taken some video of it. I think it’s likely the long grain stock powder. Also, when cycling the handle up, 100% of the time the handle sticks because it’s jamming from the fill chamber catching on the powder.
I haven't used my RCBS powder thrower in a long time. My go-to is my Lee dipper set, trickle to final weight.So hey …. Powder throws. I bought a Frankford Arsenal bench top throw. I’m returning it. Went through the setup /seasoning cycle and out of 25 throws my low was 42.7 and the high was 52.1 and everyone on between was grossly inaccurate with IMR4198 (Brownells has it in stock). My Dillon powder throw on my 750 does great with stick powders, and this is my first experience with a hand operated powder throw. Considering how this one works, should I expect that other similar powder throws will be difficult and inaccurate? What about the electronic throws that dispense a precise charge? Are they really that good that they’re worth it?
Semper Fi,
Mike
Stick powders don't meter well, for the reasons you describe. Ball and flake powders do. A Lee dipper set is pretty cheap, and you can make your own from cut-down brass and copper wire and solder.The scale I’m using to verify is my Dillon D-Terminator. Has always been very consistent when setting up my XL 750 for powder dispensing through the dies
FWIW, on several throw attempts with the FA Benchtop unit, nothing came out. It would take 3-4 movements of the handle to get it to dispense any powder. I should have taken some video of it. I think it’s likely the long grain stock powder. Also, when cycling the handle up, 100% of the time the handle sticks because it’s jamming from the fill chamber catching on the powder.
I went ahead and ordered FA Intellidropper. Reviews on it have been great so far.
Semper Fi,
Mike
I haven't used my RCBS powder thrower in a long time. My go-to is my Lee dipper set, trickle to final weight.
That said there is technique involved with a thrower. And some powders meter better than others, I can't recall offhand if IMR4198 meters well or poorly.
I cut some aluminum flashing to make a powder baffle and prevent bridging. Do a search for the template. Also, when you operate it, do so smartly, like racking a shotgun or a pistol slide. You're not trying to rip it off the bench, mind you, but you want to induce a bit of an impact at the top and bottom of the action, to shake the powder into the meter. Not sure if I'm describing that well.
Stick powders don't meter well, for the reasons you describe. Ball and flake powders do. A Lee dipper set is pretty cheap, and you can make your own from cut-down brass and copper wire and solder.
It's because it's your birthday.Thanks for that info. I went ahead and bought the FA Intellidropper. I set it up today and 10 out of 10 times it’s exactly the same charge every time.
Semper Fi,
Mike