Quick Link Options?

[John RB]

The Beal cord itself is 15kN rated. In my case I'm actually using it for an eye to eye Distel hitch (not prusik) for foot loops on a 2TC system. Some trees here get skinny quickly and I need to be able to adjust the foot loop height on the fly.View attachment 82722
Distel is much easier to adjust than Prusik.

I understand that this is just a footloop and you did a lot of work to create it, and 1300 lb sounds respectable, but it's not a good result because its overall efficiency is measured relative to the MBS of the cord itself. And from what I am reading above, it was nowhere close to it. The right knot is a better option. You could easily tie a compact Poachers knot to replace it. Here are 2 other solutions which i use all the time for your consideration.

1. With a slightly longer length of hitch cord, you could still use a Distel and tie a Longhorn Hitch onto the Delta. Plus it will auto tend for one handed operation to advance your footloop with virtually zero play/travel during adjustment. The Longhorn is extremely strong, basically = the cord MBS. Look up "Tying the Longhorn Hitch" on utube.

2. A JRB Ascender in either soft bridge mode or compact non-jamming variants. Will automatically tend. The former is easier to tie, but for a footloop, i like using a rappel ring in the compact non-jamming variant. Attach the webbing to the ring. Info:

Length Spec’s - JrbTreeClimbing.com

This page contains LENGTH SPECIFICATIONS for JRB knots and designs. See these dedicated pages for details on these items: More is better than less: Whether its cord or webbing, please error on the side of purchasing and cutting a little extra. For example, if you think you need 12 feet of cord...

jrbtreeclimbing.com

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[raisins]

Over 1,000 lbs would be fine for me IF it was not a life support piece and you never used it as such.

For instance, I have no idea what the break strength of the daisy chains I use to hang steps are and I don't really care because I always have my lineman's and tether in play. I don't want them to break, but if they do I will get levered into the tree by my lineman's and slide a maximum of 2 feet downward before being caught by my tether.

 

[Horn]

Here's an option: After publishing this one, I put up a separate video on the formal break testing on the Longhorn Soft Shackle. Tied with 7mm Sterling cord, it's stronger than the carabiners we use, and of course, it bends around the trunk. I do prefer the hard toggle option. We tie the Longhorn once, and then can open and close it like a "soft carabiner " as is the nature of a soft shackle.

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John, is it required or advised to keep something, biner or soft shackle mode, in the longhorn at all times to keep it from coming apart? Looks really awesome, I'll free testing that out soon! Thanks

Edit: I caught that it is not watching the video this time. I also wish my work came out as neatly dressed as yours does!

 

[John RB]

John, is it required or advised to keep something, biner or soft shackle mode, in the longhorn at all times to keep it from coming apart? Looks really awesome, I'll free testing that out soon! Thanks

Edit: I caught that it is not watching the video this time. I also wish my work came out as neatly dressed as yours does!

I am not sure I remembered to post this video on this thread... see link below. I was legitimately surprised at how strong the SS is when toggled in soft mode, with 7mm cord. In my climbing applications to date, I have been using it with the hard toggle only for life safety applications. That's not because I don't think its adequately strong... it's just that there's no reason for me NOT to use a hard toggle because the carabiner helps me in rigging it when I take the JRB doubled rope system and rig it around the trunk (separate video on that, titled: JRB System Rigged on the Trunk with the Longhorn Soft Shackle.

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[JC3]

I use this "method" for my tether ascending and rappelling.
It also releases from the ground nicely, and stays tight while ascending

 

[raisins]

I use this "method" for my tether ascending and rappelling.
It also releases from the ground nicely, and stays tight while ascending

I'd consider tethering the bottom of the carabiner to the rope loop with some thin cord (I'd be afraid of dropping the carabiner)....but I guess if you did that then you could just pull the whole shebang through like a normal tether.

 

[John RB]

Back to the original question about Quick Link alternatives... if it helps anyone, here's a summary of what I do, with video links. I have spent a ton of time coming up with these options, just trying to help...

1. If I am attaching a connection to the tree and manually advancing it as I go, I use the JRB Cinch. It's the easiest to walk up the tree but remains in place and stable when slack. It's remotely retrievable after Rappel but requires effort.

2. If i am using a pole to set and move a hitch above my head, (for stick climbing or hitch climbing) or if I am setting an SRT canopy anchor, I use the Maverick Hitch, which is easily Retrievable after Rappel.

3. If i am manually setting an anchor that won't be moved, I use JRB Hitch.

Whatever you use, make sure you're 100% comfortable with it, enough to use it blindfolded. PersonalIy, I have no use for a tether. I always have a line to ground and i need to get it down.

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[Iron_llama]

I use this "method" for my tether ascending and rappelling.
It also releases from the ground nicely, and stays tight while ascending

Thanks for that tidbit. I've wondered how well this hitch releases from the ground compared to a Delta link. What rope are you using?

 

[JC3]

Thanks for that tidbit. I've wondered how well this hitch releases from the ground compared to a Delta link. What rope are you using?

Using 8mm Oplux & 9mm Protac for rappelling and both release nicely, the Oplux a little easier.
I hook into the carabiner with my pull down (3mm cord).
While ascending both the ropes stay where they are placed, rarely if ever do they slide down the tree.