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Rappelling 101

robstewart said:
I’m in WMU81. You and I have similar setups. I don’t see the need for the autoblock with the Safeguard and I have a triblok ascender which I connect together with a pulley and my aider to SRT. I also have made a fleece saddle but haven’t tried it outside yet.


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I use an auto block because the safeguard is slightly off spec for 8 mm rope
I am in WMU 85

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Patriot said:
With your set up Ontario, about how long does it take you to set up, decend and then retrieve your rope from the top? I ask just because I have no concept at all if it is a slower or faster process. For me to put on my spurs and descend is a good amount of time bc I’m much slower going down then climbing up.
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I have never timed it. But. It takes the same amount of time to set up the rope as it does to pull a tether out and set it up. I take longer to check my set up for safety. Pulling the rope down after varies. A few times I have spent a few minutes because it was stuck. Packing up 8 mm Oplux takes well under one minute. Packing up 9 mm ultra tech take double or triple the time.
Rappelling down the tree is quick and fun Less than a minute unless you are removing gear


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boyne bowhunter said:
Good luck, I hope you like it. I started practicing with my rappelling rigs tethered in and standing on the ground and just leaning backwards working on controlling my descent until I could repeatedly stop myself with my butt about 3inches off the ground. I then moved up the tree one stick high to get a feel for control. It'll come together quick for you. Enjoy.
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I started learning to rappel exactly like this using an ATC first without then with an autoblock knot. I think much of the apprehension people feel about rappeling has to do with being uncomfortable hanging from a rope in a harness or saddle. I felt it at first. Once they have more time hanging at 4 feet, the apprehension will diminish when at 25 feet. Once they know the gear will support them it becomes less stressful.
 
bj139 said:
I started learning to rappel exactly like this using an ATC first without then with an autoblock knot. I think much of the apprehension people feel about rappeling has to do with being uncomfortable hanging from a rope in a harness or saddle. I felt it at first. Once they have more time hanging at 4 feet, the apprehension will diminish when at 25 feet. Once they know the gear will support them it becomes less stressful.
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My first experience was in the army. We made Swiss baskets for harnesses (a harness made from rope) and used a caribiner with the rope put through twice (no mumter hitch) and a “fireman’s belay” (buddy at the bottom holding the rope.) We wore combat helmets and were encouraged to push off and “hop” down the rock face quickly.

So for me, hanging from a rope in a proper harness with actual proper gear is relaxing! Lol


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My experience from yesterday,
I received my safeguard in the mail and went to try it out in the yard. I installed in on my rappel rope and adjusted my Beal Jammy (tied in autoblock) to support me. I'm standing on the ground just leaning back away from the tree for a visual reference. While the safeguard worked flawlessly I'm still having trouble getting the Beal Jammy to catch consistently. I have wrapped the autoblock enough that I can barely clip into it and still am have trouble with it biting consistently. I untied it and tied it back in prussic configuration and it bit better but would still not automatically catch if I opened the safeguard and let go of the knot. My fear with the prussic is while descending it would catch and basically lock down causing me to either re-rig and unweight my rappel line or cut the prussic and depend solely on the safeguard (Only in emergency) I feel confident in the safeguard supporting me but still would like to figure out how to have the friction hitch as back-up/extra control for the descent. My thoughts are the same as previously mentioned that the slick sheaths that both ropes have is effecting its ability to bite due to the limited friction. Is this something that typically gets better as the ropes get more use and broke in? Or should I expect the same issues to remain?
 
Dylan9862003 said:
My experience from yesterday,
I received my safeguard in the mail and went to try it out in the yard. I installed in on my rappel rope and adjusted my Beal Jammy (tied in autoblock) to support me. I'm standing on the ground just leaning back away from the tree for a visual reference. While the safeguard worked flawlessly I'm still having trouble getting the Beal Jammy to catch consistently. I have wrapped the autoblock enough that I can barely clip into it and still am have trouble with it biting consistently. I untied it and tied it back in prussic configuration and it bit better but would still not automatically catch if I opened the safeguard and let go of the knot. My fear with the prussic is while descending it would catch and basically lock down causing me to either re-rig and unweight my rappel line or cut the prussic and depend solely on the safeguard (Only in emergency) I feel confident in the safeguard supporting me but still would like to figure out how to have the friction hitch as back-up/extra control for the descent. My thoughts are the same as previously mentioned that the slick sheaths that both ropes have is effecting its ability to bite due to the limited friction. Is this something that typically gets better as the ropes get more use and broke in? Or should I expect the same issues to remain?
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Are you using a 3 turn Prusik? Friction hitches do have a tendency to act as you say, either grab too strongly and be difficult to release or slip a bit before catching. I use a Safeguard and just hold the tag end of my line firmly at my hip, no autoblock knot or friction hitch. It is plenty to stop descent with the Safeguard's friction regulated by the handle. Try it near the ground and you will see.
 
Dylan9862003 said:
My thoughts are the same as previously mentioned that the slick sheaths that both ropes have is effecting its ability to bite due to the limited friction.
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I ordered the Sterling Hollow Block to use as the autoblock, using the French prusik, which I read on here doesn't have this issue since it flattens out and grabs better but is still easy to loosen. It's due to arrive today so will post an update by the weekend and let you know how it works.

Sent from up in a tree
 
bj139 said:
Are you using a 3 turn Prusik? Friction hitches do have a tendency to act as you say, either grab too strongly and be difficult to release or slip a bit before catching. I use a Safeguard and just hold the tag end of my line firmly at my hip, no autoblock knot or friction hitch. It is plenty to stop descent with the Safeguard's friction regulated by the handle. Try it near the ground and you will see.
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Yes I did 3 turns and even 4 turns (most I could get) and had the same result. I was thinking that I may run it without the friction hitch as well but was looking for opinions from more experienced people like yourself before going that route. I could get the prussic to bite but I had to make a concerted effort to make it bite rather than the opposite and make it slide.
 
Dylan9862003 said:
Yes I did 3 turns and even 4 turns (most I could get) and had the same result. I was thinking that I may run it without the friction hitch as well but was looking for opinions from more experienced people like yourself before going that route. I could get the prussic to bite but I had to make a concerted effort to make it bite rather than the opposite and make it slide.
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I have used a GriGri, and Madrock Lifeguard and Safeguard and they have never slipped for me. I was just testing a few minutes ago a GriGri hanging from a pullup bar in my house. I had it slack and sat suddenly in my saddle and it locked up every time. This is no surprise since this is what they were designed to do. This is with 8.5mm dynamic rope. I have also used 8mm dynamic rope and it worked as designed.
 
JCLINE84 said:
I use this method. I only use the safeguard when I do SRT
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I'm using an ATC as well, even for descent on SRT. It's not really an extra step because I use a separate tether at hunting height anyway, I just prefer to keep my rope, hand ascender, and all other SRT gear stowed. I could obviously use the Safeguard or ATC for decent as one works as a backup for the other. The ATC is a smoother decent and being able to work hands free to remove my platform is a huge benefit and it's very safe with an ATC with an autoblock (french prusik) below. While you may get away with hands free operation using a MR Safeguard, it's not recommended by the manufacturer and I have kids that depend on me. No reason to take the risk with so many other options.
 
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Dylan9862003 said:
Yes I did 3 turns and even 4 turns (most I could get) and had the same result. I was thinking that I may run it without the friction hitch as well but was looking for opinions from more experienced people like yourself before going that route. I could get the prussic to bite but I had to make a concerted effort to make it bite rather than the opposite and make it slide.
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Try the klemheist wrap instead of the autoblock at ground level to see if it makes a difference.
Good luck and keep asking questions to stay safe!
JJ.

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So I’m sure it’s been covered, but how do you get your tether down once you’re on the ground?

Emrah


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emrah.oruc.7 said:
So I’m sure it’s been covered, but how do you get your tether down once you’re on the ground?

Emrah


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You attach a rope like paracord to the loop end of your tether and pull
 
emrah.oruc.7 said:
So I’m sure it’s been covered, but how do you get your tether down once you’re on the ground?

Emrah


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Small carabiner and paracord, I use a rated carabiner that’s very lightweight but could be used for something else in a pinch. I clip the carabiner (gate out) behind the figure eight knot and ensure it will have a clear path BEFORE rappelling down.

Connecting behind the knot ensures the knot is the first thing off the tree and eliminates the possibility of getting stuck in a tree crotch. There are other methods but this one works.

Picture was taken from the base of the tree once the knot was pulled down. At this point all that’s left is retrieving the tag end which should be a breeze.

*Don’t look up as you retrieve the tag end.

e8761420e13405b05616a8e500b59cc2.jpg




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