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Recommendations for Diamond Sharpening Plates for Broadheads?

Weldabeast said:
I gotta go look now.....pretty sure I just got the run of the mill standard sandpaper.

120, 220, 400, leather and they shave hair or slice paper effortlessly
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Get some wet/dry and take them through 1000 grit and then strop. Bet you notice a difference.
 
So here's the deal. I caved on the 4 stone DMT set. Sharpening supplies has a no questions 90 day return policy regardless of use. They definitely are of extremely high quality. My experience does not match up to the many bad reviews online. The 1200 grit stone needs more breaking in but it leaves a razor finish. Id say on par to my 3000 grit Ultra stone once it's broke in.
My favorite stone is the DMT Extra Extra Course. It's dang expensive at 80$ for 1 dang stone. But setting new bevels and getting out bangs and dents is effortless. Even on my S7 hardness bishops. I'm using cheap eBay montecs to breakin the stones and that softer metal is getting chewed through like butter on that stone. It's definitely a time saver. It of course leaves a rough finish, but now it's a flat bevel free of defects ready to be refined.
Here's the deal though on both Ultra Sharp and DMTs, diamond does not leaves nearly as good of a finish as sandpaper does. All there is too it.
240 grit sandpaper looks like 600 grit diamond. 400 grit looks like 1200 grit diamond. I'm going through quite a bit of sandpaper on the harder S7s head tho. Up to you what route you want to go there 20230624_183714_compress38.jpg
 
bigmike23 said:
So here's the deal. I caved on the 4 stone DMT set. Sharpening supplies has a no questions 90 day return policy regardless of use. They definitely are of extremely high quality. My experience does not match up to the many bad reviews online. The 1200 grit stone needs more breaking in but it leaves a razor finish. Id say on par to my 3000 grit Ultra stone once it's broke in.
My favorite stone is the DMT Extra Extra Course. It's dang expensive at 80$ for 1 dang stone. But setting new bevels and getting out bangs and dents is effortless. Even on my S7 hardness bishops. I'm using cheap eBay montecs to breakin the stones and that softer metal is getting chewed through like butter on that stone. It's definitely a time saver. It of course leaves a rough finish, but now it's a flat bevel free of defects ready to be refined.
Here's the deal though on both Ultra Sharp and DMTs, diamond does not leaves nearly as good of a finish as sandpaper does. All there is too it.
240 grit sandpaper looks like 600 grit diamond. 400 grit looks like 1200 grit diamond. I'm going through quite a bit of sandpaper on the harder S7s head tho. Up to you what route you want to go there View attachment 86477
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I'm not a fan of the extra course unless the thing is absolutely necessary. A LOT of time is required to remove all the scratches and chips that thing leaves on a blade. I prefer to do my major metal removal with a course stone and work down from there, it's almost always faster.
 
CZMark said:
I'm not a fan of the extra course unless the thing is absolutely necessary. A LOT of time is required to remove all the scratches and chips that thing leaves on a blade. I prefer to do my major metal removal with a course stone and work down from there, it's almost always faster.
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I wouldn't start on XX coarse either unless setting a new bevel or the head is really chewed up. Coarse stone takes absolutely forever to fix a damaged head or a new bevel. Probably a personal preference thing on either taking the time to get out deep scratches or just go to work for awhile with a finer head.
 
I've got a KME that has a broadhead adapter. Most of the time I start with 600. I'm not trying to revive beat up broadheads. I start with 600 then 1500 then to a kangaroo leather strop over stone if I want to get fancy. I like the diamond stones better than the Arkansas stones.
 
So I'm really going down the sharpening rabbit hole. I wanted to try a finishing Whetstone. And the DMT 4k and 8k diamond stones. I was hesitant on the diamond stones because stumpy nubs on utube discussed how he doesn't like the higher grit diamond stones. Essentially how they're manufactured is the problem. Normal quality stones electroplate the diamonds into the nickel. It's a very high quality, durable and flat surface to sharpen on. High grit diamonds are so small they cannot be electroplated on. They have to be glued on. Even if the stone is flat, glue can make it unflat. High grit diamonds have reportedly poor life too.
Anyway, both stones needed a dramatic break-in. The 4k stone left pretty deep scratches at first. I now have both broke in pretty good. The 4k stone leaves about the same finish as the Ultrasharp 3k stone. So I'm sending that one back. The 8k stone leaves a razor-sharp edge. It's not a mirror finish but it's the best edge I've seen a diamond leave.
The 8k Shapton Whetstone leaves a finer and mirror finish. But I cannot tell any practical difference in sharpness between it and the 8k DMT. This is my first Whetstone and last. I understood that water stones need flattening, but I didn't know it was as often as I needed to. Literally after about 100 swipes on the stone, it was pretty out of wack. Water also gets everywhere and leaves a big mess. Not worth the minimal gains.
So what I've settled on and what lll use for the next 20 years for sharpening in order.
DMT Extra Coarse
UltraSharp 300 grit
US 600 grit
US 1200 grit
US 2200 grit
US 3000 grit
DMT 8000 mesh
Float Glass with cereal box cardboard coated with 60000 grit buffing compound.
Absolute overkill, just how I like it. My Tuffheads are lightsaber sharp
20230707_195835_compress83.jpg20230707_195654_compress23.jpg
 
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