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screw gate biners

W

Westfale

Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2022
Messages
47
Just curious:
What makes screw gate carabiners so popular?
Seems saddle hunters use this kind of locking system more than 90%.

My thougt: It is the only locking mechanism that i can forget to close.
So what's the specific advantage of screw gates over any kind of 3-way lockings or simply wire gates?
 
Screw gate, if properly secured, keep the gate from accidentally opening if subjected to a twisting force or if they come up against something. They offer piece of mind in that regard as you don’t have to keep your eye on them.
 
I don’t use them for safety reasons and they are not used by climbing arborists either for the same reason. It is too easy to forget to close them and they can unscrew without you realizing it. I stick with auto triple locking biners which are much safer.
 
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For the casual buyer, it’s probably a relationship between availability and cost, and safety features. I think it’s accurate to say most carabiners at climbing stores are screwgate. And they’re affordable. Triple action gates are more expensive and take some more research to find than a few search clicks on REI. And screwgates offer more security than wiregates. Not overly complicated.
 
Exhumis said:
Screw gate, if properly secured, keep the gate from accidentally opening if subjected to a twisting force or if they come up against something. They offer piece of mind in that regard as you don’t have to keep your eye on them.
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I'll add they are easy to operate silently. I like the ability to reach out to snug it to make my brain know it is shut. The Petzl screw gates have the red indicator strip that is a nice safety check.

If I were the forgetful type when it comes to this stuff, I'd probably use autolockers
 
Cost was mentioned as a reason. Petzl triple lock I am seeing avg price of $20. Petzl screw gate I am seeing avg price of $18. Now I know that Petzl is more expensive than others and you can find some bargain basement priced biners, but seems like an investment of $20 isn't too insane to keep a climber safe.
 
gwhalin said:
Cost was mentioned as a reason. Petzl triple lock I am seeing avg price of $20. Petzl screw gate I am seeing avg price of $18. Now I know that Petzl is more expensive than others and you can find some bargain basement priced biners, but seems like an investment of $20 isn't too insane to keep a climber safe.
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Have you had any issues in snow/ice with a triple locker? I've heard stuff can freeze and make the sleeve difficult to slide.
 
gwhalin said:
Cost was mentioned as a reason. Petzl triple lock I am seeing avg price of $20. Petzl screw gate I am seeing avg price of $18. Now I know that Petzl is more expensive than others and you can find some bargain basement priced biners, but seems like an investment of $20 isn't too insane to keep a climber safe.
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That’s true, but when a saddle newb is starting out and you can get 3 Black Diamond screwgates for $30 or 1 Petzl for $20… not trying to be argumentative. Just illustrating what I’m sure is the logic for some. And that doesn’t mean the more budget priced carabiners are bad.

Edit: 3x BD for $35.
 
Marmuzz said:
That’s true, but when a saddle newb is starting out and you can get 3 Black Diamond screwgates for $30 or 1 Petzl for $20… not trying to be argumentative. Just illustrating what I’m sure is the logic for some. And that doesn’t mean the more budget priced carabiners are bad.

Edit: 3x BD for $35.
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People just starting out are even more likely to forget to screw the gate closed. There is a reason screw gate are not allowed for life support in arborist industry. Humans make mistakes and a mistake when elevated can result in serious injury or death.

Also don’t intend to be argumentative. Just feel strongly that climbing gear is not the place to cut costs. Would rather see people use cheaper arrows or broadheads or bullets or camo than cut costs in something they can keep you alive.
 
It also depends how used to tightening down the biner you are... I prefer screw gated... part of my routine while rigging up is screwing the biner closed... I'd feel weird if i didn't go through that step... I have 2 triple actions that sit in the garage... I saddle hunt and rock climb and use the screw gates for both
 
Started with screw gates, went to twist lockers (two step) and now use triple lockers. Triple lockers are my preference. Automatically closes, three separate actions to open.

Initially i had to practice a little to silently open with one hand, but that was it. And practice was just for being silent.
 
I chose auto-triple locks over screw gates personally but I'd like to point out that these don't really offer additional safety to a newbie. You ALWAYS have to verify that your biner is 100% fastened and locked, no matter which option you choose.

Just because you hear it click doesn't mean a piece of your clothing isn't trapped in the mechanism or that it rotated and advanced into full-lock. Get to know your gear and inspect, inspect, inspect. If there's any question of its serviceability, swap it out.

I bought several different auto-lockers and like different ones for different parts of my setup. One is a Rock Exotica ORCA. If you have one, and have gotten familiar with it, you know that if the gate isn't opened a significant amount (more than the width of your rope) the autolock mechanism won't trigger! Not a problem if you know but certainly dangerous for someone assuming that safety is "built-in."

Please, no matter what options you chose, always verify screwed/locked after attaching. It really is that important and doesn't add any real time to your process.
 
Beacher said:
I chose auto-triple locks over screw gates personally but I'd like to point out that these don't really offer additional safety to a newbie. You ALWAYS have to verify that your biner is 100% fastened and locked, no matter which option you choose.

Just because you hear it click doesn't mean a piece of your clothing isn't trapped in the mechanism or that it rotated and advanced into full-lock. Get to know your gear and inspect, inspect, inspect. If there's any question of its serviceability, swap it out.

I bought several different auto-lockers and like different ones for different parts of my setup. One is a Rock Exotica ORCA. If you have one, and have gotten familiar with it, you know that if the gate isn't opened a significant amount (more than the width of your rope) the autolock mechanism won't trigger! Not a problem if you know but certainly dangerous for someone assuming that safety is "built-in."

Please, no matter what options you chose, always verify screwed/locked after attaching. It really is that important and doesn't add any real time to your process.
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Years ago, I had a scare that still is with me and causes me to reallllllyyyyyyy check my 'biners.


I was still a tree stand guy and was climbing down using a muddy full harness and this webbing thing that was sold as a lineman's lanyard. It came with 2 screw lock carabiners to clip to your harness.

I let one snap and then twisted it shut and then climbed down. I did not look carefully, but just went off the feeling and sound. When I got to the bottom of the tree, I noticed that the gate was not shut when I screwed it down and that when I screwed it "shut" I had actually moved the lock sleeve in the way so that the biner could not close....so not only was it not locked but was propped open.

I'd also keep in mind that all these probabilities and risks are conditional on you versus the average. In a large industry where people are working hard, it makes since that on average accidents will decrease overall if everyone uses autolockers. But this is sort of like: is it safer to drive or fly? well it depends upon the driver and pilot that are being compared and also the car and the airplane. But just on average, flying is safer. So, if you're the type that is OCD about your 'biners being locked, then I'd think that the safety gap begins to tighten between all types.
 
Every locking biner should get a squeeze check before leaving the ground. Not doing that regardless of type of biner is complacency and can lead to error.

I dislike auto lockers, but a search on this site will find my specific thoughts on that and pages and pages of comparisons and why, here's one:

Screw or Autolock Carabiner?

Curious to see what folks are mainly using. I started out a screw lock guy, then went to a wiregate (bad nutterbuster) then to a grivel double wiregate (good nutterbuster) and then finally to a petzl autolocker as my main carabiner. I use one on my linemans and two on my bridge since I keep it...
saddlehunter.com

Whatever you choose for a type of locker, just make sure EVERY locking biner you use in your system is the same type and develop a system/checklist before you leave the ground.
 
Westfale said:
Just curious:
What makes screw gate carabiners so popular?
Seems saddle hunters use this kind of locking system more than 90%.

My thougt: It is the only locking mechanism that i can forget to close.
So what's the specific advantage of screw gates over any kind of 3-way lockings or simply wire gates?
Click to expand...

@Westfale - Any of the locking gate, climb-rated carabiners are going to work and be far safer than a non-locking carabiner, which should never be used due to the ability to open and release you if your bridge or tether become twisted. A simple demonstration of that risk is shown in Nutterbuster's video here:


Good choices for lightweight locking carabiners are talked about in his next video here:

 
Vtbow said:
Every locking biner should get a squeeze check before leaving the ground. Not doing that regardless of type of biner is complacency and can lead to error.

I dislike auto lockers, but a search on this site will find my specific thoughts on that and pages and pages of comparisons and why, here's one:

Screw or Autolock Carabiner?

Curious to see what folks are mainly using. I started out a screw lock guy, then went to a wiregate (bad nutterbuster) then to a grivel double wiregate (good nutterbuster) and then finally to a petzl autolocker as my main carabiner. I use one on my linemans and two on my bridge since I keep it...
saddlehunter.com

Whatever you choose for a type of locker, just make sure EVERY locking biner you use in your system is the same type and develop a system/checklist before you leave the ground.
Click to expand...
When you say system, are you referring only to the ones attaching you to your rope or climbing mechanism or everything? I have wire (non-locking) biners for quick access utility items which are not life support.
 
Beacher said:
When you say system, are you referring only to the ones attaching you to your rope or climbing mechanism or everything? I have wire (non-locking) biners for quick access utility items which are not life support.
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Well it depends on how you look at it. I was referring to any binder you may use for life support if needed. As long as those non-lockers are rated and not keychains I would say you are ok. I NEVER run anyting not rated anywhere in my gear, that way things have a double use in an emergency situation. need an additonal locker and dont have one, but have 2 wire gates? Run them opposite and opposed and your good....
 
Vtbow said:
Well it depends on how you look at it. I was referring to any binder you may use for life support if needed. As long as those non-lockers are rated and not keychains I would say you are ok. I NEVER run anyting not rated anywhere in my gear, that way things have a double use in an emergency situation. need an additonal locker and dont have one, but have 2 wire gates? Run them opposite and opposed and your good....
Click to expand...
You read my mind. My wire gates are climbing rated and I have that same opposing technique in mind just in case. I do keep an extra locking biner on me though as a backup so I hopefully never have to use the utility ones for life support.
 
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