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Sewing Machine Help

I got bored and made this one tonight, semi football shaped. A little sloppy in a couple spots but overall I'm happy.View attachment 24099
Looks great!!!
I am still waiting on all my fabric and materials... hopefully they will be here by next week. I am ready to start putting some together.

what size buckle is that that you used???
 
1"=25.4mm. 38mm is 1.5". It will fit (obviously), not sure if it will cause any issues.

I saw that on the rockywoods website But I didn’t like how the buckle was. It may Drive me insane and change it out or I may just buy the other one and sew in the 25 mm one.
Their website also freaked me out a little when it said not for weight bearing and things but it had a weight rating at 800 lbs. lol
 
@skell @7mmremmag @F1addict!
@BackSpasm

does the tension look good on these?

the webbing in the bottom is 4 layers of webbing.( I wanted to see how the sewing machine did with that many layers.) I also did not have the gutermann thread yet but wanted to practice. Also I only did straight stitch and back stitching on the left. I did not do any zigzag bar locks.

the webbing on the top is only 2 layers of webbing with the gutermann thread. I also did the bar locks on this one with lots of W stitching. How do the bar locks look? My machine did fine until about three times back and forth. Then I could tell that it was slightly struggling continuing to stitch over itself.

the second photo is the back side of the webbing so you could see both sides of the stitches.

thank you for your advice. I got lots of my fabric in but still waiting on the grosgrain and cordura.
 

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Your machine does well especially considering going through four layers of webbing.
I got my Singer 15-91 working and sewed some webbing today.
Sailrite says they should look like this. Mine are the second photo. The webbing stiffened considerably at the sewn area.
1580169960647.png
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Your machine does well especially considering going through four layers of webbing.
I got my Singer 15-91 working and sewed some webbing today.
Sailrite says they should look like this. Mine are the second photo. The webbing stiffened considerably at the sewn area.
View attachment 24288
View attachment 24288


Mine stiffened as well. I am still learning the ropes before all the material comes in so I can be ready to go when it does.
Did you do any bar lock stitches?
 
Mine stiffened as well. I am still learning the ropes before all the material comes in so I can be ready to go when it does.
Did you do any bar lock stitches?
I didn't do any bar locks. I am just learning as well. Do they add any strength? The Sailrite calculator from their website gives an idea of the strength of the stiches. The link is in the first post of the Sewing Resources thread on SH. Mine calculated a MBS (minimum breaking strength) of 2835 lbs.
Edit: The Sailrite website says the additional lines of sewing at each end add to the strength and seem to imply they are a good idea.
 
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I didn't do any bar locks. I am just learning as well. Do they add any strength? The Sailrite calculator from their website gives an idea of the strength of the stiches. The link is in the first post of the Sewing Resources thread on SH. Mine calculated a MBS (minimum breaking strength) of 2835 lbs.
Edit: The Sailrite website says the additional lines of sewing at each end add to the strength and seem to imply they are a good idea.


Right. That’s what the bar locks are for from what I have researched. They just had extra strength to the whole setup. So far my machine was worked flawlessly and handled anything I have put in it. So I hope that when all my fabric comes in I can start right away.
 
Right. That’s what the bar locks are for from what I have researched. They just had extra strength to the whole setup. So far my machine was worked flawlessly and handled anything I have put in it. So I hope that when all my fabric comes in I can start right away.
The video on the Sailrite website doesn't show any tests without bar locks so how could you know if it's better? Is something everyone "just knows" but has never been tested? One of the 10 bar tack samples broke right at the first bar tack almost clean.
 
The video on the Sailrite website doesn't show any tests without bar locks so how could you know if it's better? Is something everyone "just knows" but has never been tested? One of the 10 bar tack samples broke right at the first bar tack almost clean.


I believe it has to do with the formula. With the bar locks or tacks, you are technically adding more stitches per inch thus increasing the overall total breaking strength of the sewn area.
 
AJ,
Have you started designing your saddle yet? I have some tan seatbelt webbing and some green tubular webbing and some camo sailcloth as well as fleece. I was thinking of trying the sailcloth with a seatbelt strap 360 degrees around my saddle and the ends sewn together. Maybe add a few vertical straps near the 1/3 points with tubular webbing. I guess I have to cut 2 or more elliptical panels to sew together to get a cup shape. Any ideas?
 
AJ,
Have you started designing your saddle yet? I have some tan seatbelt webbing and some green tubular webbing and some camo sailcloth as well as fleece. I was thinking of trying the sailcloth with a seatbelt strap 360 degrees around my saddle and the ends sewn together. Maybe add a few vertical straps near the 1/3 points with tubular webbing. I guess I have to cut 2 or more elliptical panels to sew together to get a cup shape. Any ideas?


My first saddle will probably be close to a clone of the new Phantom. I bought the mantis and like it but want to try doing a phantom clone then branching out from there. I may try doing a cordura one with 4 panels as well.
I like the mesh though so I may play with different sizes and different cuts.
 
I currently use a sitdrag with an added 2" nylon belt. When I look at the commercial saddles I see fabric from waist to butt crease and nothing on my upper thigh. I need something like a rubber playground sling seat. I think some playgrounds still have them. They are like a large rubber sitdrag. When I sit on them naturally, the sling contact about half of my upper thigh to below my tailbone.With the commercial saddles, the fabric from just below my tailbone up to my waist does nothing. I have an Aero Evolution that supports from lower thigh up to waist. I want something about halfway between the current commercial saddles and the Aero Evo. I believe the Phantom has extended the bottom into the upper thigh a bit more than the Mantis.
 
I currently use a sitdrag with an added 2" nylon belt. When I look at the commercial saddles I see fabric from waist to butt crease and nothing on my upper thigh. I need something like a rubber playground sling seat. I think some playgrounds still have them. They are like a large rubber sitdrag. When I sit on them naturally, the sling contact about half of my upper thigh to below my tailbone.With the commercial saddles, the fabric from just below my tailbone up to my waist does nothing. I have an Aero Evolution that supports from lower thigh up to waist. I want something about halfway between the current commercial saddles and the Aero Evo. I believe the Phantom has extended the bottom into the upper thigh a bit more than the Mantis.

Interesting. That’s exactly why I can’t wait to get the fabric so I can start making different sizes and different shapes to see what is comfortable to me.
 
People add a battle belt to their Mantis to achieve what I have on my sitdrag, getting it lower on the thigh. @DanO did this in the first post I saw on the subject and I just added a nylon tool belt to my sitdrag to achieve the same effect.
 
So I attached the comfort channels to one side of the bridge loop on my mantis. Went okay. My original idea was to sew the whole rectangle around the webbing to secure all of the webbing but it did not work. Yes I am going to ground test them before I take it high into the tree. It’s really the main bridge loops that are holding the weight.
 

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Have any of you guys tried sewing 3 layers of the seat belt webbing? does your machines work ok on them? trying to figure out what machine in a budget range would work on the 3 layers. My wifes will do 2, not 3. thanks
 
Have any of you guys tried sewing 3 layers of the seat belt webbing? does your machines work ok on them? trying to figure out what machine in a budget range would work on the 3 layers. My wifes will do 2, not 3. thanks
Yes I have with no issues with my 185k. I have a Singer 4411 heavy duty (newer machine) that will do it but I can tell it doesn't like it. I have a walking foot on that machine and use it for all the lighter work.


Someday I'll own a juki walking foot :hearteyes:
 
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