• The SH Membership has gone live. Only SH Members have access to post in the classifieds. All members can view the classifieds. Starting in 2020 only SH Members will be admitted to the annual hunting contest. Current members will need to follow these steps to upgrade: 1. Click on your username 2. Click on Account upgrades 3. Choose SH Member and purchase.
  • We've been working hard the past few weeks to come up with some big changes to our vendor policies to meet the changing needs of our community. Please see the new vendor rules here: Vendor Access Area Rules

Sewing Resources and Information

That’s why leather guys do that. Benefits them to go slow for decorative stitches but also benefits them to have the extra torque.

I’ve found a few more machines I have my eye on, but haven’t gone to meet up with them yet because of the COVID stuff. After doing all this research into heavy duty machines, it’s making me want to get an extra beefy machine and try some leatherwork too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
That’s awesome! What is your plan for the table? I am looking at two different Consew 226R-1’s in good condition. I was wondering about building the table and found a great video about building a table with a servo motor and pulley reducer setup for a similar machine. I think I’m going to try to copy this build and do something similar.


Any advice?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I was going to wait until I got my industrial machines before I bought a gigantic table. The one that was on ebay for the last month sold 6 hours before I picked up my machines. I may have to do something like this in a tabletop version.
 
[mention]bj139 [/mention] you might want to check
Keystone sewing. In Philly. My limited research shows they are pretty well regarded. Maybe they will have a deal on a used one. And at least give you some good information/knowledge.


What I am Looking at (after I learn to sew with the singer). I’d look for used first. I won’t get to purchase one of these until later in the year or early next year. However, I did just receive my stimulus pmt. in my bank account. And I’d be helping an American business.


 
With the discussions on sewing (or thread injecting if you prefer), I think it may be beneficial to those interested if we had a single resource thread for sewing information. I know a number of the little things I’ve picked up along the way are scattered throughout the forum. Please, if you have tips or resources which may be useful to those interested in sewing DIY gear, post them here!

Some helpful tidbits copy and pasted from other threads courtesy of @ckossuth:

- IMPORTANT!!!!!! You need to make sure the machine can handle a thicker industrial thread and that you can find needles to handle the thread as well. Remember, if you're making a saddle, THIS THING IS HOLDING YOUR ASS 20 - 30 FEET OFF OF THE GROUND!!! MAKE SURE YOU ARE USING GOOD QUALITY THREAD/MATERIALS AND YOU HAVE COMPLETE CONFIDENCE IN YOUR SKILLS!

- Bobbin tension adjustment: Remember, we are not making dainty little dresses. We are making Man Gear! A seamstress will set their bobbin tension to where when holding the thread and letting the bobbin and cradle hang, it will very slowly start to fall. This is a good starting point (even for us). My personal preference (and this works on all 4 of my machines) is to tighten it to where when I'm holding the thread with the full bobbin in the cradle, I have to give the thread a little twitch to get the bobbin to start falling, and it only falls 6-8 inches before stopping again. Done. Set it and forget it. It's just one little screw. A little turn does go along way though.



This person almost has it right. The thread should be going into the slot in the bobbin cradle and then up under the tension spring. This is to show how you should let the fully loaded bobbin and cradle hang when adjusting the tension.


Here is a great diagram.


Advice for buying a sewing machine: find a decent used machine with metal gears (many machines from the 50’s and 60’s fit this bill). Another option...I know @g2outdoors has had good luck with his newer singer heavy duty. I don't recall which model thread injector it is. I'm sure if you ask, he'd be glad to fill that piece in.

I am no sewing expert. And I will not pretend to have much for answers. But I do tend to go overkill on research.
----------------
For anyone searching/shopping for an older all metal sewing machine...

I stumbled across a great blog series on how to identify models of older Singer sewing machines from terrible online photos (which are standard on craigslist). If you decide on a particular model, this 5 part series is extremely helpful.

A Visual Guide to Identifying Singers from Crappy Craigslist Photos, Part 1
http://vssmb.blogspot.com/2011/07/visual-guide-to-identifying-singers.html


Helpful websites I have found:

www.thethreadexchange.com

- Information on thread and needles. Also has definitions for terminology which can be very useful. If you click on a category (needles, polyester thread, etc) there is an information are with “buying guides.” These are very helpful in decoding what means what.

www.diygearsupply.com

- The website has a section of DIY guides. There is a sewing tips page that shows different seams. There are also a number of patterns for outdoor gear that may help with planning your own project.

https://sewsweetness.com/2014/11/tutorial-shoulder-pad-straps.html

- Tutorial on how to make pads for bag straps. For example…the Wild Edge bag really needs one of these if you are going to carry it for any length of time by its strap.

https://www.schmetzneedles.com/learning/pdf/schmetz-needle-chart.pdf

- Posted by @ckossuth in another thread. Good reference for type/size needle.

https://www.sailrite.com/How-to-Sew-Webbing-Loops (thanks @Homebrew454)

- Great page on things to think about when wanting to sew webbing.

Books

On Rope. This book contains a great deal of information on ropes and knots. There is also a small section on sewing webbing and the differing strengths of stitch patterns.

Google search for the book: HERE

Hey guys, I’m wondering if our discussions are getting away from the point of this thread which is a main resource area. If you have personal projects or sewing questions that’s are not strictly resource/information related maybe you can start a new thread?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hey guys, I’m wondering if our discussions are getting away from the point of this thread which is a main resource area. If you have personal projects or sewing questions that’s are not strictly resource/information related maybe you can start a new thread?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I had thought this in the past but isn't a discussion of what machines are available and their advantages a resource of information? My last post on making a tabletop stand for an industrial machine would seem to be good information for someone who is contemplating buying an industrial machine. We could disperse this information over many threads but it would just push this information over there. I am not arguing just wondering what the best solution is. Maybe limit the thread to so many pages then just start a #2 sewing information thread?

Edit: Two years ago on this thread in the first 2 pages, people started posting about their Juki industrial machines and no one complained, instead they were complimented. I thought that was useful information for people looking for a machine. IMHO, the thread is fine, as is. I know where to go to find the good sewing info.
 
Last edited:
I adjusted, cleaned and oiled this machine yesterday. I had trouble getting the hook to consistently pick up the thread. I think I got it but letting the oil soak in to all the moving parts is an important part of resurrecting an old machine. I weighed this machine with a luggage scale and it was 65 lbs. Bicep builder.
Edit: Forgot to mention. Handwheel powered until I can get a table/motor.
 
Last edited:
I cleaned and oiled my new to me, Singer 281-1. It came with a bobbin with about Tex 50 thread. I threaded some Tex 70 thread in the top and it sewed fine with no adjustments. The bobbin is a smaller size than a Class 15 bobbin. The Mercury machine uses Class M bobbins, a larger bobbin than Class 15. I sewed on a paper towel with the 281. I didn't try any webbing. It needed to have it's tension assembly re-seated so the presser foot lift lever could release the tension. That's about it. It weighs 54 lbs. Some screws are missing from the knee lifter pivot under the machine. I don't have a knee lifter so I didn't really need it. I found a screw with the same size threads and I am off to Lowes to buy a few. Biceps are coming along nicely. I can feel the burn. :D
 
quick question, has anyone used a Kenmore 158 16510? if so, will if sew 3 layers of seat belt material? also, would like to use a #18/20 needle with V-92 thread vs V65. seen one near me, its been gone over and is for $50.
 
I cleaned and oiled my new to me, Singer 281-1. It came with a bobbin with about Tex 50 thread. I threaded some Tex 70 thread in the top and it sewed fine with no adjustments. The bobbin is a smaller size than a Class 15 bobbin. The Mercury machine uses Class M bobbins, a larger bobbin than Class 15. I sewed on a paper towel with the 281. I didn't try any webbing. It needed to have it's tension assembly re-seated so the presser foot lift lever could release the tension. That's about it. It weighs 54 lbs. Some screws are missing from the knee lifter pivot under the machine. I don't have a knee lifter so I didn't really need it. I found a screw with the same size threads and I am off to Lowes to buy a few. Biceps are coming along nicely. I can feel the burn. :D
I bought some accessories and found out the Juki 8700 uses the same hook, case and bobbins as the Singer 281. I guess the Juki is clone like but with reverse. I also bought a Consew CSM3000 brushless servo motor. I plan to top mount it on a piece of plywood. I will post more about it later. I think I will have to enlarge the needle hole in the hook to feed larger needles and thread on my Mercury M-337 as shown in the following video. The hook sometimes fails to catch the thread loop which is hitting this hole and the thread seems to get shredded when sewing in reverse. I am not sure why it is shredding. I ran the Mercury with a domestic machine belt and handheld motor which worked Ok to observe faster stitching.
 
I bought some accessories and found out the Juki 8700 uses the same hook, case and bobbins as the Singer 281. I guess the Juki is clone like but with reverse. I also bought a Consew CSM3000 brushless servo motor. I plan to top mount it on a piece of plywood. I will post more about it later. I think I will have to enlarge the needle hole in the hook to feed larger needles and thread on my Mercury M-337 as shown in the following video. The hook sometimes fails to catch the thread loop which is hitting this hole and the thread seems to get shredded when sewing in reverse. I am not sure why it is shredding. I ran the Mercury with a domestic machine belt and handheld motor which worked Ok to observe faster stitching.
What did the servo motor run you? I still need to get one for my machine but turkey season has been taking up my time. I threaded it up to see if I could see some small pieces by hand and discovered the timing is off and needs adjusted. I’m trying to get my hands on a service manual. Once I’m confident in the timing I’ll get a motor for it. I hope to spend more time with it soon.
 
I bought the refurbished motor from Amazon for $132. It was the last one and I just checked; it doesn't show now. The standard price is $148. I was gong to buy the CSM1000 for $120 but figured a bit more power was worth $12 more. Service manuals are available on manualslib.com.
I also bought a pulley to slow it down more.
Here is a motor I was looking at. I can't say if it is good or not but it seems to have good reviews. I probably would have bought it instead but I wanted to run the controller part on a wire and make a foot pedal for the floor. This one has the control arm on the motor.
 
Last edited:
My Mercury didn't have a complete tension assembly. The extra disc with the part running across the hole was missing along with the pin going to the back. I am going to order a new tension assembly since they are so cheap for industrial machines. Anyway, I took the tension assembly out of my Singer 281 and it fit right in my Mercury and released the tension fine with the presser lift. So I can order any tension assembly that fits either machine to fit both.
 
What did the servo motor run you? I still need to get one for my machine but turkey season has been taking up my time. I threaded it up to see if I could see some small pieces by hand and discovered the timing is off and needs adjusted. I’m trying to get my hands on a service manual. Once I’m confident in the timing I’ll get a motor for it. I hope to spend more time with it soon.

I got the same motor several weeks ago for about $145 on amazon. I’ve since added the needle position synchronizer for it that I’m really liking it. I remember seeing it sold with the positioner somewhere. I believe this would have been cheaper if I had bought them together. If you plan on adding it I’d consider buying it as a package.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
I got the same motor several weeks ago for about $145 on amazon. I’ve since added the needle position synchronizer for it that I’m really liking it. I remember seeing it sold with the positioner somewhere. I believe this would have been cheaper if I had bought them together. If you plan on adding it I’d consider buying it as a package.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Are the positioners all the same between brands? I bought the Enduro motor as well for testing purposes and it includes a positioner.
 
Are the positioners all the same between brands? I bought the Enduro motor as well for testing purposes and it includes a positioner.

I honestly don’t know. I just ordered one that said it worked with my servo.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Question is #69 or T70 the largest thread a singer 4452 will run?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I tried v92 thread and could not get it to work. I believe that @always89y has said he uses v69 thread as well, is that correct @always89y ?
My Singer 15-91 and 15 class clones handle V92 very well. I think the hook clearance is the reason.
Here is another chart of threads and needles. I don't know if this is already here but if not....
 
I bought some accessories and found out the Juki 8700 uses the same hook, case and bobbins as the Singer 281. I guess the Juki is clone like but with reverse. I also bought a Consew CSM3000 brushless servo motor. I plan to top mount it on a piece of plywood. I will post more about it later. I think I will have to enlarge the needle hole in the hook to feed larger needles and thread on my Mercury M-337 as shown in the following video. The hook sometimes fails to catch the thread loop which is hitting this hole and the thread seems to get shredded when sewing in reverse. I am not sure why it is shredding. I ran the Mercury with a domestic machine belt and handheld motor which worked Ok to observe faster stitching.
I made the mod in the video to my Mercury M-337 which is a
YAMATA 5318, JUKI DU-141, CONSEW 205RB clone or something like that. A size 24 needle would not fit through the slot in the hook before and I sewed with the size 24 needle after with no skipped stitches. It works well with a size 20 needle which it had many skipped stitches with before. I sewed with V92 polyester and V92 Kevlar thread. I'm still loving the Kevlar thread when doing pull tests on seatbelt webbing. The polyester is slick and I was able to pull out some single line stitches unless backtacked firmly in place. Not so with the Kevlar which is tacky and sticks to the webbing. I just bought some V138 polyester thread to try from SGT Knots. Some people here recommended this supplier. I will report how it sews with that and a size 24 needle. I may have to do a bit more grinding on the hook and needle plate.
 
I made the mod in the video to my Mercury M-337 which is a
YAMATA 5318, JUKI DU-141, CONSEW 205RB clone or something like that. A size 24 needle would not fit through the slot in the hook before and I sewed with the size 24 needle after with no skipped stitches. It works well with a size 20 needle which it had many skipped stitches with before. I sewed with V92 polyester and V92 Kevlar thread. I'm still loving the Kevlar thread when doing pull tests on seatbelt webbing. The polyester is slick and I was able to pull out some single line stitches unless backtacked firmly in place. Not so with the Kevlar which is tacky and sticks to the webbing. I just bought some V138 polyester thread to try from SGT Knots. Some people here recommended this supplier. I will report how it sews with that and a size 24 needle. I may have to do a bit more grinding on the hook and needle plate.
Did you post that video on here? Your channel?
I have used Sgt. Knots and have been happy with the products and service.
 
Back
Top