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Starter/minimal rappel kit

C

casts_by_fly

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2022
Messages
239
Location
NJ
Hi all,

I've been using full sticks the past couple years (30" hawks) with some aiders added. I'm tired of carrying them- there are times I chose not to hunt because I don't want to carry the sticks. I've now done a 2TC climb and while I didn't love it I can see where it would not discourage me like sticks at times. I'm considering converting one of my sticks to a 1-stick setup as a trial. I'm looking at rappel kits and trying to figure out the minimum I need to add to what I have to minimize cost as a 'try it'. I use a ropeman on my tether right now, but that won't work unless I go big rope.

Obviously there's the rope with a quick link. This will replace my top tether on a 2 TC climb. I'll need a beaner to connect me from my bridge to the rope which I already have.

Past that, I don't want to go down the madrock or similar route yet. Is a friction hitch enough to by my tether connection at the top? I think so as that's what came with my tether in the first place. I've read a bunch of the friction hitches thread so something like the JRB ascender comes to mind as a rope only option.

For the rappel down, a figure 8 seems straightforward but it also looks like I could just use a munter hitch on a beaner instead of buying a figure 8.

All in, it looks like I need the rope, quick link (which I have), a pair of beaners (which I have), and a friction hitch (which I can tie). Is that really it? There's a pulldown rope also but I have that covered.

thanks,
rick
 
casts_by_fly said:
Hi all,

I've been using full sticks the past couple years (30" hawks) with some aiders added. I'm tired of carrying them- there are times I chose not to hunt because I don't want to carry the sticks. I've now done a 2TC climb and while I didn't love it I can see where it would not discourage me like sticks at times. I'm considering converting one of my sticks to a 1-stick setup as a trial. I'm looking at rappel kits and trying to figure out the minimum I need to add to what I have to minimize cost as a 'try it'. I use a ropeman on my tether right now, but that won't work unless I go big rope.

Obviously there's the rope with a quick link. This will replace my top tether on a 2 TC climb. I'll need a beaner to connect me from my bridge to the rope which I already have.

Past that, I don't want to go down the madrock or similar route yet. Is a friction hitch enough to by my tether connection at the top? I think so as that's what came with my tether in the first place. I've read a bunch of the friction hitches thread so something like the JRB ascender comes to mind as a rope only option.

For the rappel down, a figure 8 seems straightforward but it also looks like I could just use a munter hitch on a beaner instead of buying a figure 8.

All in, it looks like I need the rope, quick link (which I have), a pair of beaners (which I have), and a friction hitch (which I can tie). Is that really it? There's a pulldown rope also but I have that covered.

thanks,
rick
Click to expand...
Yup. If you're comfortable using a munter that's all you'll need. JRB has a good video for that, you'll probably want a second bridge or some, safe, way too extend your hitch farther from the munter. Keep in mind bigger ropes make more friction and are easier to control your rappel, so depending on your weight you might want that big rope. Also get familiar with the munter variations to add more friction too see what you like, you may need/ want that extra friction after a hunt vs experimenting when your fresh.

Be safe! Practice low and slow. Ask more questions of you aren't sure of something!
 
you might as well just buy a madrock now. youll be upset later when it took you so long to get one. knots, hitches and figure 8's all work but why wouldnt you want to get the easiest thing you could.
 
All u need is a length of rope long as u see fit. A friction hitch that u hang and hunt off of and it also doubles as your brake decending, 1 biner, 1 munter, (I prefer the super munter because it doesn't twist it rope) and a pull down rope. U can get fancy and add a tender on top of the brake on it way down to make it real easy to unlock the brake but it isn't absolutely needed.
 
Marmuzz said:
I disagree with the Madrock advice. If all you’re doing is coming down the tree, a figure eight like the Black Diamond Super 8 and some heat-rated hitch cord like Sterling 6mm TRC will work great for only around $20.
Click to expand...
I mean pulling a lever sounds like it'll work even better but that's just my opinion.
 
I’m no hitch expert but the michoacán in TRC has worked great for me while hanging, and then I connect it either to the loop in my Dryad, or linemans loop down below a figure 8. I use 8mm RescTech.
 
I personally agree with the advice to just get a figure 8. I just set up my own first line of Sterling HTP for rappelling, and the black diamond super 8 cost me $14 at REI. I have a friction hitch as backup. Only autolocking carabiners in my rappel setup. Now, I have seen a method of using three carabiners that basically does the same thing as a figure 8. Munter if you drop your figure 8 or one of your carabiners or whatever. Disclaimer: not advice, just what I personally have set up for myself. I’m a novice at rappelling too. Don’t take my “info” to the bank.
 
I've got 45' of C-IV, a Figure-8, a couple of 'biners, and some 7mm hitch cord. I tend to distrust mechanicals, and I've never been quite satisfied with the Munter. You might also look at the Guide ATC, there's been some recent discussion on using this as a progress capture as well as descender; when I replace my C-IV I'll probably get some 8mm line with an ATC (or comparable competitor) to go with it.
 
thanks all, great replies. I’ve watch per a bunch of John’s videos and others so will be referencing them for setup and practices. I’ll probably add the figure 8 for all the more it costs. I was thinking canyon c-iv and the starter kit from EWO minus the things I already have.


Chandler96 said:
you might as well just buy a madrock now. youll be upset later when it took you so long to get one. knots, hitches and figure 8's all work but why wouldnt you want to get the easiest thing you could.
Click to expand...

ordinarily, that’s what I’d do. When it comes to hobbies and interests, I don’t half arse anything. I give it the whole arse. I’ve recognized that I tend to jump in with both feet, get fully engrossed until I figured something out, and then look for the next thing. That leaves nice gear sitting unused which I hate. As a result, I’ve started to moderate myself before I go crazy and end up with bins and totes of crap in the basement.

In this case, the madrock can be added for no real change later (as long as I get 9mm rope to start) If I find I like it. And not getting it up front means I save half of the total cost since the madrock is about the same cost as everything else ill need.
 
casts_by_fly said:
ordinarily, that’s what I’d do. When it comes to hobbies and interests, I don’t half arse anything. I give it the whole arse. I’ve recognized that I tend to jump in with both feet, get fully engrossed until I figured something out, and then look for the next thing. That leaves nice gear sitting unused which I hate. As a result, I’ve started to moderate myself before I go crazy and end up with bins and totes of crap in the basement.

In this case, the madrock can be added for no real change later (as long as I get 9mm rope to start) If I find I like it. And not getting it up front means I save half of the total cost since the madrock is about the same cost as everything else ill need.
Click to expand...
Look around a bit or just ask if someone on here has 9mm and a madrock close to you, well close enough to meet up. Tons of people on here are happy to meet and let others try whatever gear they have before you buy it
 
Hey guys. I started typing a reply but when I realized I have answered the question before and will likely need to do so in the future, I took a little more time and added a page to my website, with links to the videos. That will make it easier for the next person. Please review it for me and let me know if anything is unclear.

Also, I saw a post on Facebook the other day from a Saddle Hunter who broke his back in 2 places after falling during rappel. He was using a Figure 8 but had no backup friction hitch and didn't have the rope engaged properly so that when it slipped out of his hand, he took a ride. Pls make sure your system fails safe. We should always be able to let go and the system stops our rappel.

Rappel - JrbTreeClimbing.com

Many hunters use sticks or steps to climb into a tree but prefer to return to ground using a zero slack Rappel system. Rappel offers the advantage that we do not need our feet to descend, nor the ability to find the right place to put them, in typically dark conditions. The following video shows
jrbtreeclimbing.com

JrbTreeClimbing.com, affiliated with RockNArbor.com
 
thanks John, that's super helpful. I think my issue is/was that there are so many way to do thing, different add-ons, tons of hitches, etc. Its hard for someone with no or limited experience to figure out just the basics. This is perfect.

thanks
rick
 
well gents, thanks for the help. Everything is on the way now. 40' of Sterling Canyon C-IV and some accessories. I did add the figure 8 and a spare caribbeaner (so I don't pull apart my current stuff and can swap back and forth). I also picked up the 6mm eye to eye sling from EWO instead of accessory cord and tying it all myself. Hopefully the weather holds out for a couple more weeks so I can get some practice time in good weather.
 
If you want to keep it minimalistic, skip the safeguard and skip the figure-8. Learn to tie the Munter Hitch or the Super Munter. It only requires a carabiner. When you’re ready to come down, put on your lineman’s to take the weight off of your rappel rope/tether. Slide down the friction hitch you’ve been using and move that carabiner to a let loop, lineman’s loop, etc. Tie in the Munter Hitch above that moved friction hitch and you’re good to go to rappel down. Let your break hand slide down the friction hitch as you rappel. If you need to stop, then let let your break hand go up with the rappel rope until the friction hitch catches and you’re now stopped.

The trick is to make sure there is enough room between the friction hitch and the Munter Hitch for the friction hitch to actually engage. If you’re rappelling off of a longer bridge, you shouldn’t have a problem.
 
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