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Stupid idea?

MNFarmHunter

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2021
Messages
296
Location
Minnesota
I really like my Aero Merlin...except for the bridge. The stock bridge works great, adjusts easily and shifts the load well (for hip pinch) but I hate having a permanently affixed bridge. I had taken it off and used (2) biners attached to a sewn eye prusik rope which met all of my wants but would shift too much load to my lower hips and wasn't that comfortable. I switched back to the webbing bridge but still hate it.

Given that, I'm thinking about making an amsteel continuous loop, attaching it to the saddle bridge loops via a prusik with just enough of a loop to connect the biners to. This would in turn meet all of my needs and wants.

Here's the dilemma. To get a full strength bury (using a locked brummel), I'm limited to either 1/8" or possibly 3/16" amsteel for the length I want. Ideally, I'd want to use 1/4" but I won't get more than an 8" bury which is 50% of the recommended bury for 1/4". So, do I go with the smaller diameter amsteel with a full bury or do I go with 1/4" with the compromised bury?
 

gcr0003

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SH Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2018
Messages
3,271
Location
Not Alabama
Why can’t you take 5 seconds to un thread the webbing from the right side tri-glide? I’m no Amsteel guy so I won’t comment on your other ideas but this seems like a no brainer to me.E9CF59A6-1E3C-4CF7-8D08-0CFFD0F6C3D9.jpeg
 

philsanchez76

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SH Member
Joined
May 20, 2019
Messages
682
Location
TN
I’m also not very schooled in amsteel. Aero hunter rates their saddles to a 5000 pound break strength. I’d hate to nullify that by making the bridge the weak point in the saddle. Maybe go oplux and use a Beal jammy prusik on one side to make it fully adjustable?
 

MNFarmHunter

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2021
Messages
296
Location
Minnesota
Why can’t you take 5 seconds to un thread the webbing from the right side tri-glide? I’m no Amsteel guy so I won’t comment on your other ideas but this seems like a no brainer to me.
This is an option as well. I'd have to shorten my bridge more than I like to have enough of a tag end to put a stopper knot in it when threaded through the buckle. Certainly isn't a deal breaker and fully acknowledge I may have an answer searching for a problem.
 

MattMan81

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SH Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2020
Messages
1,361
Location
S.E. Michigan
What about prussics type on each end for adjustability. Use two pieces of rope. Each one has an eye on it. You bring the two eyes to your tether.
 

MNFarmHunter

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2021
Messages
296
Location
Minnesota
What about prussics type on each end for adjustability. Use two pieces of rope. Each one has an eye on it. You bring the two eyes to your tether.
I may be misreading this but if you brought the (2) ropes together at the tether attachment point, you'd lose the load balancing ability of a single piece bridge.

Grc0003 has the stupid simple answer that resolves everything. I'm just not quite ready to accept the stupid simple answer after investing so much brain power to this ;)
 

MNFarmHunter

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2021
Messages
296
Location
Minnesota
Here's what I came up with.

Accepting the fact that grc0003's comment made the most sense, I had to figure out a way to wrap and store the long end of the webbing. I tried one of my daughters hair ties but it was either too loose or too tight, both a PITA. I then took a velcro loop off my sling bag and stitched it onto the webbing near the bridge loop. It's now secure, out of the way and should work just fine. Ignore the amateur stitching. It's not load bearing and there's a reason why I'm not a seamstress.

And for the record, I didn't concede to grc0003's idea, I stole it and made it better ;)
20210620_152145.jpg20210620_152155.jpg
 

Fl Canopy Stalker

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SH Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2021
Messages
1,249
I’m also not very schooled in amsteel. Aero hunter rates their saddles to a 5000 pound break strength. I’d hate to nullify that by making the bridge the weak point in the saddle. Maybe go oplux and use a Beal jammy prusik on one side to make it fully adjustable?
That’s a 4000 lbs tri glide on the bridge so the bridge is already the “weak point”. 3/16” amsteel is rated to 5400 lbs if he makes it into a continuous loop it’ll support 1.5 times that.
 

Fl Canopy Stalker

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2021
Messages
1,249
I really like my Aero Merlin...except for the bridge. The stock bridge works great, adjusts easily and shifts the load well (for hip pinch) but I hate having a permanently affixed bridge. I had taken it off and used (2) biners attached to a sewn eye prusik rope which met all of my wants but would shift too much load to my lower hips and wasn't that comfortable. I switched back to the webbing bridge but still hate it.

Given that, I'm thinking about making an amsteel continuous loop, attaching it to the saddle bridge loops via a prusik with just enough of a loop to connect the biners to. This would in turn meet all of my needs and wants.

Here's the dilemma. To get a full strength bury (using a locked brummel), I'm limited to either 1/8" or possibly 3/16" amsteel for the length I want. Ideally, I'd want to use 1/4" but I won't get more than an 8" bury which is 50% of the recommended bury for 1/4". So, do I go with the smaller diameter amsteel with a full bury or do I go with 1/4" with the compromised bury?
3/16” amsteel in a continuous loop would be more than adequate for this. It’s rated to 5400 lbs if spliced correctly in continuous loop form you’ll get almost 1.5 times that strength. It’ll bite down good on a double wrap to the bridge and hold where ever you position it. I did the same on my aerohunter kite I picked up recently
 

MNFarmHunter

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2021
Messages
296
Location
Minnesota
On mine, weight was about the same factoring swapping the heavy webbing for the rope+(2) biners. What is nice about doing it this way is that you don't need to step into your saddle and the bridge is non-existent until you start climbing.
 

phatkaw

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2021
Messages
815
Location
Western Pa
All of my bridges are connected.
I don't step through them, I kinda put 'em on like a jacket. Just grab the ropes and swing it around the back of your neck and then it's on. Now you just need to reach for your waist buckles and click them together...

I hang them that way too...
 

Fl Canopy Stalker

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2021
Messages
1,249
All of my bridges are connected.
I don't step through them, I kinda put 'em on like a jacket. Just grab the ropes and swing it around the back of your neck and then it's on. Now you just need to reach for your waist buckles and click them together...

I hang them that way too...
I was kind of thinking the same thing. I haven’t stepped through a saddle in years but mine aren’t removable. :sweatsmile: I read on here somewhere that’s the “pro tip”
 
Last edited:

Dylan9862003

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2018
Messages
229
Location
Prairieville, La
why 2 carabiners? I have tubular webbing for mine that is girth hitched on one side with a triglide and a carabiner on the other. I unclip one side and put it in my pouch or around my back to get it out of the way.
 
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